Twin Bed Internal Battery Location

[lewster]

Originally Posted by ltorgy

What a great idea. I hadn't considered one Lithium-Ion battery to replace my two stock 12V batteries. I read about all of the advantages on the AM Solar site and I am certain that theses newer batteries do last much longer than lead acid batteries with many other advantages. However, at $2,600 for the 300 amp-hour configuration, I would have to think about it a little longer. Does the Li-Ion battery require an different or new inverter or can I use my cheapo stock inverter (2015)? I was planning on replacing it with a 4-stage upgrade this winter. Thanks. Lyle

Lyle,

AM Solar's lithium battery does require special charging parameters. To date, the only chargers that we use are the solar charge controllers from Blue Sky Energy when a solar array is on the RV and a Magnum inverter/charger with their ME-RC remote. When using a Magnum, you will need a minimum MS-2012 2000 watt sine wave inverter/charger, as their smaller units' charging firmware do not have the custom charge profile recognition that's required.

PM me if you need more detailed information.

..........and remember, you can use 240 amp/hours from a 300 amp/hour lithium battery, which is the equivalent of a 480 amp/hour lead based battery bank.

[KJRitchie]

Originally Posted by lewster

Kelvin,

For a run of that length, I would use a minimum of 2AWG and probably 1/0AWG of I were doing the job. Also remember that you need to have a properly sized DC circuit breaker within 18" of the positive battery terminal for the line running to the front. for 2 AWG I would use a 75 amp breaker and for 1/0 a 100 amp breaker. Remember that you are protecting the wire and not any devices. This type of breaker can also act as a total coach disconnect switch that will easily isolate your batteries for ALL DC loads for storage.

I typically don't vent Lifelines on my installations, but then the only chargers I use are fully programmable Blue Sky solar charge controllers or Magnum inverter/chargers, both of which also have full temperature compensation and a minuscule chance of overcharging the batteries in question.

Lifelines will only outgas in an extreme overcharging situation of 15.5VDC+. The DO like a bit of breathing room around them in their compartment, though.

I'm a little confused with the "18" parameter above. Currently with my queen bed the converter/charger with the DC panel is located under the queen bed frame facing the bathroom area. Wires to/from are enclosed in a flexible loom that is laid from the converter location to the street wall next the water heater then makes a turn towards the front of the trailer under the side storage compartment door to the side of the queen bed closest to the front of the trailer to a compartment that has the Use/Store relay, an enclosed gray box and some electrical busses. The cables from the A frame batteries and the electrical tow harness come up through the floor here. I'm sure the battery cables terminate in this area and not directly to the converter.

So you are saying a fuse needs be installed on the positive battery cable? Is there a fuse on the OEM wiring? I guess I don't understand why the positive cable would need a fuse. We don't have an inverter and probably won't get one.

Is there a schematic somewhere that shows this?

Lew, what is your opinion for locating the batteries: street side or curbside twin.

Thanks

Kelvin

[ltorgy]

Originally Posted by lewster

Lyle,

AM Solar's lithium battery does require special charging parameters. To date, the only chargers that we use are the solar charge controllers from Blue Sky Energy when a solar array is on the RV and a Magnum inverter/charger with their ME-RC remote. When using a Magnum, you will need a minimum MS-2012 2000 watt sine wave inverter/charger, as their smaller units' charging firmware do not have the custom charge profile recognition that's required.

PM me if you need more detailed information.

..........and remember, you can use 240 amp/hours from a 300 amp/hour lithium battery, which is the equivalent of a 480 amp/hour lead based battery bank.

Thanks for the info Lew. AM Solar sells the Magnum Inverters as well. Perhaps I should just drive out there and ask them about the proper setup. Fortunately, they are minutes from my house. Lyle

[lewster]

Originally Posted by ltorgy

Thanks for the info Lew. AM Solar sells the Magnum Inverters as well. Perhaps I should just drive out there and ask them about the proper setup. Fortunately, they are minutes from my house. Lyle

Lyle,

The 'shop' and myself are the only places you can get their lithiums for now....unless one physically drives to Springfield and picks them up.

I would definitely suggest calling ahead, as I know they are booked out a couple of months.

[BoldAdventure]

Did you ever finish this install?

[ltorgy]

No, I'm just waiting for the RV season to settle down before driving out to AM Solar.

[BoldAdventure]

My question was for KJRitchie, I have a twin too. Curious about his final placement, and length of cables used, etc.

[switz]

On the 23D, we put the lithium iron phosphate 300 amp-hour battery about five inches forward of the street side wheel well under the sofa. All the switches and fuses were between it and the heater along with the solar charge controller. The Magnum MSH-3012 was just forward of the heater along with an automatic transfer switch for the added front AC generator power inlet and the main circuit breaker.

We also wired in a bypass switch to be able to isolate the Magnum if there were an issue with it.

All the equipment fitted under the street side sofa and dinette seat without reducing the original storage or removing the slide out drawer in the sofa for sleeping.

The DC power wires from the collector box on the roof for the five 100 watt solar panels came in above the microwave and continued downwards inside the refrigerator compartment.

[KJRitchie]

Originally Posted by BoldAdventure

My question was for KJRitchie, I have a twin too. Curious about his final placement, and length of cables used, etc.

Looks like our twin bed conversion will not start until after the new year. The shop has too much scheduled work this time of year.

Lithiums would be nice but they are way outside of our budget.

I read somewhere someone stating Trojan AGMs need to be vented. Is that true?

Kelvin

[lewster]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Looks like our twin bed conversion will not start until after the new year. The shop has too much scheduled work this time of year.



Lithiums would be nice but they are way outside of our budget.



I read somewhere someone stating Trojan AGMs need to be vented. Is that true?



Kelvin

Technically, (especially if you ask the battery makers) ALL lead acid batteries should be vented. Since the only lead based batteries that I use are Lifeline AGMs, my comments will relate to them specifically.

All Lifeline AGMs recombined any gasses created during the charging process back into the glass mat material. In the unlikely scenario of severe over charging (above 15.5VDC at 77 deg. F) or thermal runaway, the one way safety vent in each Lifeline will open and expel excess hydrogen sulfide gas.

This also decreases the amount of moisture within the battery, changing the chemical makeup and essentially ruining the battery.

In 15 years of Lifeline installs, I have never seen this happen, except in controlled lab conditions. I have also never vented any of my Lifeline installations.

Again, I can't address the operating characteristics of any other AGM brand.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357