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Old 09-12-2023, 12:10 AM   #1
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2022 27' Flying Cloud
Sparta , NJ
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Solar/Lithium/2x Inverter Upgrade Finished - Split Bank 500Ah!

So I know I posted in other people posts my Phase 1 and Phase 2 build but never got the chance to post the entire completed project so figured I'd take the time to summarize and put many of you at ease and yes you read correctly this is a successful split battery bank upgrade! SO many advised against a split bank and I knew if done smart it could be done.

I challenged myself with this build with a few main goals in mind that I wanted to accomplish.

1) Lose as little storage space as possible being I have an FBT model and really wanted to avoid losing an entire storage bay.

2) Be able to utilize everything electrically in the AS including running my 15k BTU A/C unit and Microwave on battery power while on the road and not hooked up to shore power.

So I engineered the build adventurously and spoke to Battleborn and researched as much as possible to have minimal odds of this not working out. 1 year later and this project has been proven successful.

The MultiPlus II is the ideal inverter to handle what I wanted for my 50 amp breaker panel but couple issues with it that I saw. Unit was massive to fit in my AS and it would have required major rewiring. It also functions automatically and supplements shore power with battery power which is awesome but wasn't important for me if you are knowledgeable enough to manage the power usage and know what you are drawing for power when running on the inverters(s) simultaneously. Simple to calculate how much power draw each appliance you run is within good operating range of the inverters capabilities.

So what I did was keep the 1000w Progressive Dynamics Sinewave Inverter that was preinstalled in my rig for driver half side of the AS appointed to kitchen and bedroom TV outlets. Then I added a 2nd 2000w Progressive Dynamics Sinewave Inverter for the Passenger side half of the AS covering the outlets in the galley, the bedroom, and outdoor outlet plus the 15k A/C and MW oven. The beauty of the PD units is that the remote display tells you how many kW you are drawing to not overload them.

I additionally installed a subpanel in the bathroom under the sink which ties into a new 30 amp breaker in the main panel and took the original branch feeds of the 15k BTU A/C and Microwave off the main pain and tied into this subpanel which also is tied into the 2000w PD inverter. Ran new 6/2 Romex as necessary to tie it all together and then also ran new power cable from the main panel receptacle to the front storage bay where I also installed a new WFCO 70amp converter to power up all the batteries. Wanted this as close as possible to the bank to have as little voltage drop as possible when charging the batteries and also beefed up the cabling on the converter to the batteries. I get the full charging benefit of the converter and actually charges even a little over the 70amp output rating. Now also free'd up 2 more circuits on the main breaker panel if I wanted to run additional 120v A/C lines anywhere else in the AS.

The battery bank is split. 2 Battleborns in the original AS box and 3 of them in the storage bay. Used massive 4/0 welding cable to tie the batteries together with very short cable runs also to minimize voltage drop and avoid unbalanced charging to any of the 5 batteries in the chain. Drilled holes into the front storage compartment floor on left and right side of the new battery bank to tie together the other 2 batteries and shunts in the original box. Made a custom wooden box with black felt to hide the 3 batteries in the bay so not even noticeable and a very small footprint. Looks factory and also installed the heated switch externally on the box in the event I want to heat them. Same with the 2 batts in the standard box - stuck a SPST switch that fit perfectly in one of the pre-existing hole cutouts in that box.

Installed intake and outake exhaust fans located in the corner where all the electronics are with a SMART hometheater controller sitting on the bedroom table to control the fan settings. The fans are housed to dissipate heat as much as possible. Recently made a 4-1/2 inch hole cutout to install the intake fan in the passenger side storage compartment because I needed better airflow and to suck more cool air into the electronics bay. The outake fan (now upgraded to 2 fans - 1 fan design shown in the picture) pulls the air out into the front storage bay and if necessary I can open the outside storage door to expel the excess heat. This way the air keeps moving because the 2000w inverter produces quite a bit of heat when the A/C is powered through it. No issues running the 15k BTU A/C on the inverter with MicroAir softstarters. Have soft starters on both A/C's actually so I can run on 30 amp service off shore power or even on my 4500w portable Westinghouse inverter generator. The constant draw on the 15k BTU A/C is only 1.7 Kw using the inverter. I can run the A/C nonstop off the batteries for approximately 4.5 hrs if necessary however can't see that being needed if conservative with the tstat setting during the evening hours when settling for the night on the road in a Cracker Barrel or wherever. With the A/C power cycling, can likely get through an entire nights sleep but have yet to test this duration. The digital display of the 2000w inverter sits in the cabinet right over the stove in the galley so tucked away.

Victron Smartshunt and 30amp DC to DC charger also tucked in the compartment with the inverters. Yes the wiring could be cleaner but I didn't feel like cleaning up the mess AS did with their wiring. Just ridiculous this rats nest. Someday I will go in there and clean it up. There is a lot I got accomplished here in such a small package so wasn't easy.

Upgraded the stock 180w solar package on roof from AS to 515w up there using same style Legacy Zamp panels. Plus have a 180w Legacy suitcase I can plug in at the battery box for a total 700w. Used original combiner on roof with splitters at the ports to accommodate the additional solar panels. Kept just within the max wattage that the original combiner can tolerate and still using the measly 10awg wire that AS ran from there to the 12v distribution panel in the corner where all the rest of the electronics are.

I have to still continue testing the system for long period load using the inverter(s). I'll see how much better the cooling is now with the additional intake fan. If still need better cooling, will add another fan under the passenger side storage compartment (cutting another 4-1/2 inch hole at the rear wall of one of the 2 cabinets under the bed to suck more cool air from the main cabin into the passenger storage bay where the intake fan is installed. Should lower a few more degrees when inverters are cranking but doing a quick test this week proved the newly installed single intake fan to help considerably then just having solely the dual outtake fans.

Hope my mods help some of you out there if you were ever considering doing something along the lines of what I accomplished.

Happy Airstreaming and Safe Travels!
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Old 09-12-2023, 12:12 AM   #2
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Old 09-12-2023, 12:15 AM   #3
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Old 09-12-2023, 12:16 AM   #4
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Old 09-12-2023, 12:19 AM   #5
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Old 09-12-2023, 10:18 AM   #6
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Awesome setup! Thanks for sharing all the details
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Old 09-12-2023, 11:13 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Doc Foster View Post
Awesome setup! Thanks for sharing all the details
Thanks Doc!!
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Old 09-12-2023, 02:57 PM   #8
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Thanks for posting, very creative, someday we might add more inverter over the 1000W. The Multiplus is what most people use, but another inverter is an option. Is it difficult to run Romex?

Quote:
Kept just within the max wattage that the original combiner can tolerate and still using the measly 10awg wire that AS ran from there to the 12v distribution panel in the corner where all the rest of the electronics are.
If it's any comfort I'm pretty sure it's 8AWG at least in our 2023 GT (the colors are the same). If you're not exhausted, did you install a breaker for the solar? It's supposed to be "code" but also nice to have you're trying to shut down all DC inputs. AS left plenty of slack in our rat's nest so I could slip one in.

Also, every chance I get, I advocate replacing the standard issue 150|35 Blue with a Smart 100|30 since you can access it on Bluetooth, it plugs into the display, and plays with the VE.Smart Networking. I sold my 150|35 on eBay for the cost of the 100|30. Since the plug-in panels and rooftop panels almost always have different solar exposures, I have two 100|30s. If you stick with one controller, then you would need a beefier Smart of course (~5A per 100W panel connected in parallel).
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Old 09-12-2023, 03:02 PM   #9
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Great detailed explanation. Thank you for the insights into your decision making
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Old 09-12-2023, 09:50 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by JeffKim View Post
Thanks for posting, very creative, someday we might add more inverter over the 1000W. The Multiplus is what most people use, but another inverter is an option. Is it difficult to run Romex?
The MultiPlus II is too large and I would be concerned even more so using that for proper ventilation and cooling. Has a built in converter too. Many people that do go with that inverter option install it under their Queen bed storage area. We don't have that in our rig. On my FC 27FBT I ran the Romex along the passenger side bed frame against the interior wall, into the bathroom wall and fed to the main breaker panel. Took some creativity and fishing but don't see any of it. All hidden.

Quote:
If it's any comfort I'm pretty sure it's 8AWG at least in our 2023 GT (the colors are the same). If you're not exhausted, did you install a breaker for the solar? It's supposed to be "code" but also nice to have you're trying to shut down all DC inputs. AS left plenty of slack in our rat's nest so I could slip one in.
In my rig its 100% 10awg. Unfortunately after really digging into my unit it was so surprising to see how broad based AS used under gauge wiring to tie everything together. Even the converter wiring to the DC panel was under gauge. Total joke. The 1000w inverter especially. They used battery cable sizing not even approved in the PD manual. They don't care. They are figuring you are only running very small electronics on the inverter but they clearly didn't even follow the manufacturers guidelines in the installation processes.

Quote:
Also, every chance I get, I advocate replacing the standard issue 150|35 Blue with a Smart 100|30 since you can access it on Bluetooth, it plugs into the display, and plays with the VE.Smart Networking. I sold my 150|35 on eBay for the cost of the 100|30. Since the plug-in panels and rooftop panels almost always have different solar exposures, I have two 100|30s. If you stick with one controller, then you would need a beefier Smart of course (~5A per 100W panel connected in parallel).
Yup. Mine is upgraded as well to the BT Smart model. Setup as you state and use the Victron app on my phone to see the Shunt, Solar Controller and DC to DC charger stats. Managing the Shunt stats off the app is very important when running on inverters. Sold the original Solar Controller that came with the unit. Another disappointment for AS cutting corners. The smart version is only a few dollars more. Go figure. Did I mention the TV's suck? I replaced all of them. 32" 4k TV with 4K DVD player in the galley (dumped the garbage Sony DVD player. 5.1 surround sound Roku setup with additional subwoofer under the kitchen galley storage cabinet and also a Roku Speaker with upgraded 24" 1080p in the bedroom on custom bracket mounting over the TV and on the arm extension mechanism.
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Old 09-13-2023, 09:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Yup. Mine is upgraded as well to the BT Smart model.
Duh, I saw 150|35 in the picture and assumed it was the Blue model.

Yes, some of the wiring is suspect in ours as well, but for the most part it is sufficient for the loads according to the wiring calculators. I doubt the GT wiring gauges are any different than the FC. At least the fusing seems correct.

I'm interested in your TV replacement. What did you get? We don't usually watch too much TV, but I can see upgrading at some point.
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Old 09-18-2023, 10:41 PM   #12
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Thanks so much for posting and sharing all the great photos!!!!
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Old 09-22-2023, 10:52 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by JeffKim View Post
Duh, I saw 150|35 in the picture and assumed it was the Blue model.

Yes, some of the wiring is suspect in ours as well, but for the most part it is sufficient for the loads according to the wiring calculators. I doubt the GT wiring gauges are any different than the FC. At least the fusing seems correct.

I'm interested in your TV replacement. What did you get? We don't usually watch too much TV, but I can see upgrading at some point.
Samsung was the only model (don't have model # in front of me now) I found last year that had a 32" size tv capable of producing a 4K picture. Original garbage tv was only 27". I wanted the latest HD tech on the main tv as it also created an excellent home theater environment with the Roku 5.1 speaker setup. Looks and sounds amazing. The TV was quite expensive however but well worth it. I just barely got it to fit on the standard mounting bracket without having to make further modifications. Just squeaks by on the left side without hitting the interior aluminum shell. The tv in the bedroom I just stuck with the same 24" size but having many more inputs so I can accommodate connection of multiple external sources like another Roku, DVD player (which I moved the Sony that was in the galley) into the BR. Have setup so it velcros to the bottom of the storage cabinet at the foot of the bed. Can watch different DVD material simultaneously instead of using 1 DVD player to feed 2 TV's. That setup just doesn't make sense. Compact Toshiba 4K DVD player where the original Sony player was. I had to remove the wooden framing on the floor of the internal cabinet that housed the Sony player from sliding and just used velcro on the Toshiba to keep in place. DVD disc I can load right from the original cabinet opening cutout since has a similar footprint as the Sony. Also have everything configured with headphone inputs if we want so does not disturb people talking in the rig or overpowering someone else watching something on the tv at the opposite end of the trailer.
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