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Old 12-09-2013, 02:52 PM   #21
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I'm reading the info on the Paralax with interest... about a month into living in our 2010 International CCD full-time and am hoping to avoid crisis fixes as living in a broken TT needing a quick fix has very little appeal. Wound up replacing pretty much crapped out batteries on the second shakedown trip as we couldn't get more than a day of use and am trying to run down the batteries periodically to keep them healthy, but if I read the background correctly, it's a matter of time before the Paralax converter burns them out or fails outright (or both). Without a fixed sticks & bricks anymore, my array of tools is a bit limited, so I'm wondering about the kits mentioned here and on other threads about installation. Not a doctor, Jim, or an electrician, but it does sound like a doable self install... but would like to know if the tool set necessary might require meters or other items above and beyond basic tools.
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Old 12-09-2013, 04:44 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by almcate View Post
I'm reading the info on the Paralax with interest... about a month into living in our 2010 International CCD full-time and am hoping to avoid crisis fixes as living in a broken TT needing a quick fix has very little appeal. Wound up replacing pretty much crapped out batteries on the second shakedown trip as we couldn't get more than a day of use and am trying to run down the batteries periodically to keep them healthy, but if I read the background correctly, it's a matter of time before the Paralax converter burns them out or fails outright (or both). Without a fixed sticks & bricks anymore, my array of tools is a bit limited, so I'm wondering about the kits mentioned here and on other threads about installation. Not a doctor, Jim, or an electrician, but it does sound like a doable self install... but would like to know if the tool set necessary might require meters or other items above and beyond basic tools.
If you have external power, put your battery disconnect on the "STORE" position to isolate the batteries from the converter. They will not charge in this position (unless you have factory solar), but if you have external power they won't discharge much either. You can periodically switch to the "USE" position to recharge the batteries if they need it.
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Old 12-09-2013, 04:55 PM   #23
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i replaced the Parallex 7300 with a Best 45 amp drop in kit replacement. Went with 45 instead of 55 so as not to overload the Yamaha 1000 watt generator. Used screw drivers and a stripiing tool. Can not recall using my multi meter. I did take photos as a reference while doing the project.
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:09 PM   #24
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I'm reading the info on the Paralax with interest... about a month into living in our 2010 International CCD full-time and am hoping to avoid crisis fixes as living in a broken TT needing a quick fix has very little appeal. Wound up replacing pretty much crapped out batteries on the second shakedown trip as we couldn't get more than a day of use and am trying to run down the batteries periodically to keep them healthy, but if I read the background correctly, it's a matter of time before the Paralax converter burns them out or fails outright (or both). Without a fixed sticks & bricks anymore, my array of tools is a bit limited, so I'm wondering about the kits mentioned here and on other threads about installation. Not a doctor, Jim, or an electrician, but it does sound like a doable self install... but would like to know if the tool set necessary might require meters or other items above and beyond basic tools.
Replacing the Parallax garbage constant voltage OEM converter (can you tell that I have no use for them? ) with a fully automatic 3-stage unit from Progressive Dynamics (4600 series is a direct replacement) is easily done with basic hand tools in about a half hour. A constant voltage charger will never fully charge your batteries (which generally require much higher voltages to be fully charged) and will either cause them to overcharge, undercharge, boil the liquid acid out and generally will destroy your batteries prematurely. Cycling the Parallax on/off will STILL not fully charge the batteries, but more than likely will simply prolong their agony!

Also, drawing your batteries down periodically does them no favor, as deep cycle batteries have far longer life when NOT deeply discharged. The number of charge cycles available are totally dependent on the depth of discharge (less is far better), the charging voltages used (temperature compensated charging is preferred for the batteries, especially in widely varying ambient temperatures) and the use of a charging system that has 3-stages: bulk, absorption and float.

Each battery manufacturer and every battery type have very specific charging voltages that the manufacturers recommend. One voltage does not fit ANY of them well. If you are looking for the BEST way to charge your batteries, use a fully programmable inverter/charger like ones from Magnum Energy that can be set for type of battery (pre-programmed for different requirements of the various battery types) length of absorption charge time (dependent on the size of your battery bank) AND full temperature compensation, which automatically adjusts the charging voltages up or down depending on the ambient temperatures of the batteries.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:49 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by mjayjensen View Post
i replaced the Parallex 7300 with a Best 45 amp drop in kit replacement. Went with 45 instead of 55 so as not to overload the Yamaha 1000 watt generator. Used screw drivers and a stripiing tool. Can not recall using my multi meter. I did take photos as a reference while doing the project.
Jay
Using the battery disconnect switch in Store mode to avoid overcharging with the converter and charge batteries with TV connection when driving: genius...even clearly discussed in the manual had I bothered to look there. Have a 2000W Champion to charge for extended periods between tows, but still think I see a replacement at some point for the Paralax, tho. One question about the disconnect switch. Without shore power the red pilot light goes out with the rocker switch moved to store but with power connected the pilot light doesn't change whichever way the rocker switch is moved. Assume it really does disconnect, but is there any way to confirm?
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:51 PM   #26
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umm, meant to reply to Dkottum, sorry for the disconnect of quote and reply...
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