Shore power at 7300, but no where else; GFCI?

[wandered]

Greetings all,

While the batteries are dead and the new ones have not yet arrived, I'm trying to power up my newly acquired 2007 Safari 25 SS SE to shore power and turn the lights and heat on.

When plugged in, I have 120VAC (119ish) measured at all circuit breakers. One of the breakers is a GFCI breaker. The GFCI breaker flips on and off easy enough; but it does not work -- if I push test, nothing happens. If this GFCI breaker is toast, does that shut down power for the entire trailer?

Is there another switch somewhere I'm unaware of? I've read about switches under beds/dinettes for the converter -- but I thought this 7300 was self contained; is there another piece of equipment hidden away?

A wiring diagram would be nice; the owners manual is less than helpful and I can't find a service manual online.

Thanks for any assistance!

Ed

[68 Overlander]

Hi Ed,
Your converter is not likely on the GFCI circuit, at least is shouldn't be. It (the GFCI) is not likely the reason you don't have DC power. The reason you don't have lights and other DC is the same reason your batteries are dead. The Parallax converters are known to over charge and if it failed, would also explain your lack of DC power. It's first job is to supply DC power to your DC fuse board and anything left over is available for battery charging. As a single voltage converter, it never scales back and will gas the water from your batteries rather quick. I recommend the Progressive Dynamics 4655VL for that system. It is an easy upgrade to a 4 stage "smart" converter and will make a huge difference and you're new batteries will last many years. I got over 10 years on my AGMs.
Since you have AC to your breakers, your other AC stuff should work..outlets, microwave, etc. Your lights, furnace igniter and fan, water heater board, etc all require DC to light unless they are AC only.

[wandered]

Thank you -- so the 4655VL unit replaces the bottom half of the 7300? (The breakers and 12v fuse panel being on the top half).

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by wandered

Thank you -- so the 4655VL unit replaces the bottom half of the 7300? (The breakers and 12v fuse panel being on the top half).

That is correct. Breakers and fuse panel rarely a problem. If you get the 4600 series remote, there is no reason to even change out the DC fuse board. It has the same functions to interact with the charge wizard and you can bring it outside the panel to monitor.

[wandered]

Randy, I notice there are 35A, 45A, and 55A options on the 4600 series. How do I know which one is right for my rig?

Quick notes that might matter:

1. Installing (2) NPP NP6-200Ah 6V 200Ah AGM batteries in series

2. Installing (2) 100W Renegy 12V 30A solar panels

3. GFCI breaker still doesn't work as prescribed and likely shot according to what I've read.

Thanks!

P.S. nice website!

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by wandered

Randy, I notice there are 35A, 45A, and 55A options on the 4600 series. How do I know which one is right for my rig?

Quick notes that might matter:

1. Installing (2) NPP NP6-200Ah 6V 200Ah AGM batteries in series

2. Installing (2) 100W Renegy 12V 30A solar panels

3. GFCI breaker still doesn't work as prescribed and likely shot according to what I've read.

Thanks!

P.S. nice website!

Airstream has only used a 55 amp converter for at least a dozen years. The 4655VL is the answer but don't confuse that with your 30 Amp service. That is AC. Totally different.

[overlander63]

Airstreams of that era had to have 12v available before the 12v system would initialize.

Try putting a good (charged)12v battery in the battery box, and connect it, and see if things start working. Not saying the converter isn't bad, but the way the trailer is configured, even if it were good, it still wouldn't come on.

[wandered]

Good test, Randy! Will do.

[bibbs]

Can you check the outlet where the converter is plugged in ? Just use a lamp, That would confirm that all the 120V systems are working. If no light go back to the circuit breaker it just might be on the GFI circuit.

[wandered]

Originally Posted by bibbs

Can you check the outlet where the converter is plugged in ? Just use a lamp, That would confirm that all the 120V systems are working. If no light go back to the circuit breaker it just might be on the GFI circuit.

Great idea! As soon as I get home...

This pesky day job is getting in the way of the fun AS work!

[rmkrum]

Another thought or three:

On your (and mine) power panel, one of the breakers is fed backwards by the trailer power cable. It should be a 30-amp breaker (assuming you have 30-amp shore power). This screw terminal is hooked to the hot lead from your shore power cable. It may or may not be properly marked as "MAIN"

When this breaker is 'ON' the buss bar in the back of the breaker box should also have 120 volt power on it. That buss bar feeds the backside of the rest of the circuit breakers. The screw terminals on those breakers go to your 120 volt circuits like the convertor, outlets, A/C unit, water heater, etc.

Your description of the problem indicated that the GFCI breaker will not 'test' itself, IIRC. That usually means it's NOT getting any power from the breaker box buss bar. GFCI breakers typically need 120 volt AC power present to properly 'test' and 'reset' themselves.

I suspect the 30 amp "main" breaker is either not fully reset (push handle all the way to 'OFF' position hard, then push it back to 'ON') or your 'main' 30 amp breaker has gone bad.

Also, typically the convertor 120 volt input power is wire-nutted into a lead from another breaker--that connection could have gotten loose. Troubleshoot carefully--with the shore power cable disconnected if you have your fingers inside the box!

Let us know if that helps...

[wandered]

Update: (2) 12v batteries installed in parallel. DC systems seem to work fine. Still no shore power systems. I do have 120 reading at bus bar, all breakers, and at main terminals on converter as shown in picture.

If the converter has 120 at terminals, would that suggest breakers are ok and converter is blown?

Then again, GFCI breaker still doesn't trip on test. I have no power in any trailer receptacles or microwave... But the refrigerator powered up (I'm guessing from battery).

Ideas?

[wandered]

Update: (2) 12v batteries installed in parallel. DC systems seem to work fine. Still no shore power systems. I do have 120 reading at bus bar, all breakers, and at main terminals on converter as shown in picture.

If the converter has 120 at terminals, would that suggest breakers are ok and converter is blown?

Then again, GFCI breaker still doesn't trip on test. I have no power in any trailer receptacles or microwave... But the refrigerator powered up (I'm guessing from battery).

Ideas?

[bibbs]

Yes that would indicate a bad converter. I would test for power first, then just to be sure I would temporarily connect the converter directly to an independent power source. Use an old extension cord, with clips or better yet use some spade connectors. Just be careful! Unplug trailer first.