I am at a loss. To connect my inverter to the SPS and electrical panel, I need to run two 6/3 wires plus a couple of data cables from the front of my FC 30FB Bunk to the electrical panel. I would like to keep the wires hidden.
There's already two DC wires in a fabric sheath that runs into the flooring at the main electrical panel and out of the front side of the belly and back up through the floor to the DC panel in the front storage compartment. so I know it can be done.
Can I partially lower the belly pan, install the wires and reinstall the rivets once I'm done? Sounds time consuming.
How much trouble would it be to run a 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe or conduit through the belly pan to run the wires?
Putting in the pvc conduit will be more work, but it does help for future repairs/additions. I took the time to add it throughout the belly pan when I did the frame up on my 58.
Nice job! I wish I could turn my trailer upside down to work on it. On second thought, that would mean I have a lot of additional work to do before I can install the upgraded inverter.
It looks like you had to drill through the cross beams to install the conduit fore and aft. I thought there might be some holes I could snake through. I guess I’ll have to drop some of the belly pan to take a look.
I am at a loss. To connect my inverter to the SPS and electrical panel, I need to run two 6/3 wires plus a couple of data cables from the front of my FC 30FB Bunk to the electrical panel. I would like to keep the wires hidden.
There's already two DC wires in a fabric sheath that runs into the flooring at the main electrical panel and out of the front side of the belly and back up through the floor to the DC panel in the front storage compartment. so I know it can be done.
Can I partially lower the belly pan, install the wires and reinstall the rivets once I'm done? Sounds time consuming.
How much trouble would it be to run a 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe or conduit through the belly pan to run the wires?
Is there a better way?
Thanks in advance.
Tony
I installed a DC power cable from the battery box at the front to a macerator plug in at the rear bumper, and a bumper backup camera cable using flexible liquid tight conduit riveted to the outside of belly pan.
I called Am Solar (where I bought most of the components) and there recommendation is either:
run the wire out from under the queen bed along the wall through the bulkhead that separates the bedroom from the lounge and then under the couch, sink, stove then under the cross over tunnel to the area below the fridge. This could have exposed wire for about 3-4 feet which I would have to manufacture a rather large wire mold.
Run the wire along side the two factory installed 6 gauge DC wires starting under the bed, through the floor, enter the front side of the belly pan area and then back up through the floor under the fridge. No wires exposed. That's the direction I'm looking at now.
Thanks for all the ideas. Keep em coming. I have started yet. I may change my mind again.
I had a similar challenge with my 27FB. No way to run wires internally with a queen bed without some ugly wall trim or drilling out many rivets to somehow put the wires into the wall.
I chose instead to run a new conduit below the belly pan following the propane gas line from the front of the camper to a point near the electrical panel, about 10 feet away. I used flexible Liquidtight conduit which you can find at any big box home store. There's also 90 degree connectors that attach the ends to the belly pan or plywood floor. Completely waterproof. I think I used heavy duty zip ties to hang it off various connection points. Worked great for 7 years now.
I had a similar challenge with my 27FB. No way to run wires internally with a queen bed without some ugly wall trim or drilling out many rivets to somehow put the wires into the wall.
I chose instead to run a new conduit below the belly pan following the propane gas line from the front of the camper to a point near the electrical panel, about 10 feet away. I used flexible Liquidtight conduit which you can find at any big box home store. There's also 90 degree connectors that attach the ends to the belly pan or plywood floor. Completely waterproof. I think I used heavy duty zip ties to hang it off various connection points. Worked great for 7 years now.
When I ran (2) #4 DC home runs from my solar box on the roof to the Solar charger in the front compartment I ran behind the pantry down to the power distribution real then out under the water heater in seal-tite up to the front. Been working fine for 8 years for me. Vinnie (Vinnies Airstream repair) found a nicer path by removing the black banana wrap and running the seal-tite through the holes in the frame outriggers (they have supporting flat flanges at each hole) to keep the pipe inside the banana wrap. Too late for me!
Lew Farber did my install. Ran 6/3 wire along the wall in the interior of the coach. Lew fabricated aluminum covers for the 4’ exposure in the bedroom. Looks like it came from the factory this way - blends right in.
This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.
Linear Mode
