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10-27-2024, 06:36 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member 
2024 16' Caravel
Rochester
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2024
Posts: 14
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Removing batteries lessons
We removed our BattleBorns today for winter storage (we are in Minnesota… so it’s a must)
What a pain in the ass!!! Everything is so tight in that compartment (Caravel 16RB) … almost no room to get tools in, very difficult to lift the batteries as there was no room to grip them (thank goodness we have Lithiums) … we are not looking forward to reversing this come spring.
Notes for next year
1. Put nylon straps under the battery to have something to lift with
2. Buy smaller, exact size tools … we dropped one into the battery compartment 😱 lots of cussing with this job
Any tips from the seasoned pros???
LN
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10-28-2024, 04:54 AM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member 

2023 23' International
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 342
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Removing Batteries - Pictures
I agree that removing the batteries is difficult. We have regular lead acid batteries so doubly hard. The only advice I offer is that you take a picture of the batteries prior to removal. Like all things electrical in the Airstream our battery wiring is not straight forward.
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10-28-2024, 06:04 AM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member 
2024 16' Caravel
Rochester
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2024
Posts: 14
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We kept saying … “thank goodness they are Lithiums” … and we labeled everything and took pictures and videos.
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10-28-2024, 07:00 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master 
2024 30' Flying Cloud
Oak Park
, Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2023
Posts: 543
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Why exactly did you pull the lithium batteries?
I ask because I am about to get a trailer that has them and I've read here in a few places that removal is not required, even in cold climate. Just disconnect the terminal so there is no power draw. My understanding is the cold only effects charging, which is why folks in colder climates should have batteries that have heat capabilities, but that is really only for use, not storage.
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10-28-2024, 07:13 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master 
2007 16' International CCD
Vintage Kin Owner
Somewhere
, Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,751
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I have a single BB in a custom battery box which is also very tight and experienced all of the problems and frustrations you have. I gave up on the nylon strap idea after one end slipped out of my hand and disappeared down into the box!
Now I use an old fashioned solution: duct tape. Actually it is Gorilla tape, but a strap fashioned from it has worked perfectly for the last few years.
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10-28-2024, 09:54 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master 

2023 25' Globetrotter
2021 16' Bambi
Forest Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfranklin
Why exactly did you pull the lithium batteries?
I ask because I am about to get a trailer that has them and I've read here in a few places that removal is not required, even in cold climate. Just disconnect the terminal so there is no power draw. My understanding is the cold only effects charging, which is why folks in colder climates should have batteries that have heat capabilities, but that is really only for use, not storage.
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This recent thread has a discussion about removing LiFePO4 batteries for the winter. BB recommends removing their batteries if temperatures get below -15F because of the possibility of the case cracking.
I have 4x100Ah cheap SOB batteries wired in under a twin bed. I'm not moving them even though in Minnesota we get -15F weather (less often that we used to). It would be too much of a PIA. They made it through last years mild winter just fine. I guess the advantage of cheap is that I don't worry too much about them and they are all comfy cozy under the bed instead of being naked and alone in a battery box.
__________________
2023 Globetrotter 25FBT "Curly"
2017 Audi Q7 3.0T
WBCCI 6343
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10-28-2024, 09:59 AM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member 
2024 16' Caravel
Rochester
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2024
Posts: 14
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We are removing them because BattleBorn says
f temperatures are expected to drop below -10 ° F where the batteries are being stored, remove them and store them in a warmer location.. Source: https://battlebornbatteries.com/faq-...our-batteries/
Given the price tag on these batteries and the fact we hit -20 or lower at least once in the winter… we are not risking it.
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10-28-2024, 10:15 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master 

2023 25' Globetrotter
2021 16' Bambi
Forest Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,879
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There is an official BB battery strap. Would that work for your batteries? It sort of looks like any old buckling strap will do.
Edit: Nevermind, looked at your picture and yours are a different type. In our Bambi we had a battery with a webbed sort of strap around it on four sides and a handle on top. I couldn't find anything on Amazon like it. Seems like this would be a common problem with a solution.
__________________
2023 Globetrotter 25FBT "Curly"
2017 Audi Q7 3.0T
WBCCI 6343
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10-28-2024, 10:41 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master 
2022 25' Flying Cloud
NCR
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,522
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we leave our Lion batteries inside all winter long
they are NOT harmed by the cold weather and will retain the power all winter long with little loss
__________________
2023 25' FB FC, hatch, Queen,30A,1AC,Awning pkg, Convection uwave.Multiplus 12/3000-50,700A Lion,MPPT 100/30,Orion-TR 30,Cerbo GX,GX touch 50,Lynx distributor,dual BMV-712, smart shunt 500A&1000A, RUUVI temp/humidity sensors,2 Mopeka LP sensors
NCR,Ontario,VE3HIU since 1978
WBCCI# 21212
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10-29-2024, 01:35 AM
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#10
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Site Team

1994 25' Excella
Waukesha
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 6,355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfranklin
Why exactly did you pull the lithium batteries?
I ask because I am about to get a trailer that has them and I've read here in a few places that removal is not required, even in cold climate. Just disconnect the terminal so there is no power draw. My understanding is the cold only effects charging, which is why folks in colder climates should have batteries that have heat capabilities, but that is really only for use, not storage.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waninae39
we leave our Lion batteries inside all winter long
they are NOT harmed by the cold weather and will retain the power all winter long with little loss
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Perhaps the brand of batteries you have uses a different plastic composition for the cases, because Battleborn has specific instructions about avoiding storing their batteries below a specific temp.
__________________
Richard
11018
1994 Excella 25 'Gertie' Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8 'Bert'
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser 'The Bus' (Sold)
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10-29-2024, 01:38 AM
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#11
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Site Team

1994 25' Excella
Waukesha
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 6,355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LNinMN
We removed our BattleBorns today for winter storage (we are in Minnesota… so it’s a must)
What a pain in the ass!!! Everything is so tight in that compartment (Caravel 16RB) … almost no room to get tools in, very difficult to lift the batteries as there was no room to grip them (thank goodness we have Lithiums) … we are not looking forward to reversing this come spring.
Notes for next year
1. Put nylon straps under the battery to have something to lift with
2. Buy smaller, exact size tools … we dropped one into the battery compartment 😱 lots of cussing with this job
Any tips from the seasoned pros???
LN
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Regarding your item #2 - exact tool sizes. In the past I've modified wrenches to allow me to access hardware in hard-to-reach places. Don't be afraid to take out the torch and bend a few wrenches if necessary to make it easier to install/remove the batteries. Same for grinding on them a bit if necessary to fit in tight spots. You're not rebuilding an engine here, just tightening battery clamps, so there is not much concern for the slight reduction in metal if you have to modify a wrench with a grinder.
__________________
Richard
11018
1994 Excella 25 'Gertie' Follow the build on Gertie!
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8 'Bert'
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser 'The Bus' (Sold)
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10-29-2024, 06:39 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master 
2015 30' Classic
Decatur
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 767
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stop by a battery store and ask them about a strap to lift batteries, more than likely they will just give you one
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10-29-2024, 08:14 AM
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#13
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1 Rivet Member 
2024 16' Caravel
Rochester
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2024
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard5933
Regarding your item #2 - exact tool sizes. In the past I've modified wrenches to allow me to access hardware in hard-to-reach places. Don't be afraid to take out the torch and bend a few wrenches if necessary to make it easier to install/remove the batteries. Same for grinding on them a bit if necessary to fit in tight spots. You're not rebuilding an engine here, just tightening battery clamps, so there is not much concern for the slight reduction in metal if you have to modify a wrench with a grinder.
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Good point on molding them to shape … I am sure a lot of the difficulty was because this was new to us … imagine it will be much easier in the future… I also imagine lots of people don’t do this … I know there are hundreds(thousands) of RV’s in these county and state fair barns and I doubt they were out there taking their batteries out … but that is their problem… we paid $2k+ to put these batteries in, I am babying them …
LN
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10-29-2024, 10:38 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master 

2023 25' Globetrotter
2021 16' Bambi
Forest Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LNinMN
Good point on molding them to shape … I am sure a lot of the difficulty was because this was new to us … imagine it will be much easier in the future… I also imagine lots of people don’t do this … I know there are hundreds(thousands) of RV’s in these county and state fair barns and I doubt they were out there taking their batteries out … but that is their problem… we paid $2k+ to put these batteries in, I am babying them …
LN
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Yes, despite my post above about leaving our batteries in, I'd do the same thing and remove the BBs from the battery box. No sense in taking a chance. And knowing how these things go, I'm sure by the 4th or 5th season or so it will go like clockwork.
__________________
2023 Globetrotter 25FBT "Curly"
2017 Audi Q7 3.0T
WBCCI 6343
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01-10-2025, 12:04 AM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member 
2024 27' Flying Cloud
Williamstown
, West Virginia
Join Date: Nov 2024
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waninae39
they are NOT harmed by the cold weather and will retain the power all winter long with little loss
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Unless you accidentally leave the battery heater switch on and temps drop below 35 for several days. Don't ask how I know this...
For this reason I'm thinking of adding a 15ma LED pilot light next to the heater switch to help remind me that the heater is enabled.
__________________
2024 Flying Cloud 27FBT
2022 F-150 Lariat Powerboost, ProPride
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01-10-2025, 10:36 AM
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#16
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New Member
2024 23' Flying Cloud
Port Deposit
, Maryland
Join Date: Jan 2025
Posts: 1
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Thanks for this post and the discussion. We purchased a 2024 Flying Cloud 23FBT last October. Decided to pull our battleborns as part of our winterization even though we don’t get the MN cold temps here in MD. Found that getting the batteries out of the box was a knuckle busting challenge too. I too ended using duct tape (stuck tape on both sides of the battery and enough slack to serve as a handle). Thank god for duct tape! Not sure I will pull the batteries next year but wanted to experience how to do it. Now for the fun of putting the cables back on correctly.
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01-10-2025, 11:04 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master 

2023 25' Globetrotter
2021 16' Bambi
Forest Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mdtimms
Thanks for this post and the discussion. We purchased a 2024 Flying Cloud 23FBT last October. Decided to pull our battleborns as part of our winterization even though we don’t get the MN cold temps here in MD. Found that getting the batteries out of the box was a knuckle busting challenge too. I too ended using duct tape (stuck tape on both sides of the battery and enough slack to serve as a handle). Thank god for duct tape! Not sure I will pull the batteries next year but wanted to experience how to do it. Now for the fun of putting the cables back on correctly.
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Welcome and congratulations! Hopefully, you took a picture. But if you get confused you can always get help here; most of the time it's helpful.
__________________
2023 Globetrotter 25FBT "Curly"
2017 Audi Q7 3.0T
WBCCI 6343
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01-10-2025, 01:26 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master 
2022 33' Classic
Chesapeake
, Virginia
Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 676
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Before I moved my BBs inside, I removed them. I bought some 1" wide nylon strapping off Amazon to leave around them. Makes lifting easy.
I also used a wrench on the terminal bolts, and wrapped it in electrical tape.
It's very important to take a picture before removal, as already stated.
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01-13-2025, 01:51 AM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member 
2024 27' Flying Cloud
Williamstown
, West Virginia
Join Date: Nov 2024
Posts: 22
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Battery heaters enabled without shore power in sub 30° temps for a week...
Quote:
Originally Posted by LNinMN
We removed our BattleBorns today for winter storage (we are in Minnesota… so it’s a must)
What a pain in the ass!!! Everything is so tight in that compartment (Caravel 16RB) … almost no room to get tools in, very difficult to lift the batteries as there was no room to grip them (thank goodness we have Lithiums) … we are not looking forward to reversing this come spring.
Notes for next year
1. Put nylon straps under the battery to have something to lift with
2. Buy smaller, exact size tools … we dropped one into the battery compartment 😱 lots of cussing with this job
Any tips from the seasoned pros???
LN
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I should probably share what just happened to me. As I previously mentioned, the battery heaters were inadvertently left enabled (without shore power) in a week of sub 30° F temps, which completely depleted the batteries. And, the temps weren't forecasted to be above 35 for another week.
So I called BattleBorn to ask what the best path out of the situation was. The fellow I talked with said the internal heaters only draw from internal power (which of course was completely depleted), and that it was critical that the batteries not stay completely depleted for more than a couple days. He strongly recommended getting the batteries out of the trailer quickly and bringing them inside to warm up, and that I could get a Noco Genius 10 from my local Home Depot to charge them in the house.
So I went back to the trailer in a hurry to get the batteries out -- and found (like the OP) that getting your hands around the batteries to remove them was practically impossible (2024 FC 27FBT). I actually had duct tape with me, but in my hurried state of mind the only thing I could think of was cutting off a 4' piece from a 1/4" cord that happened to be available, and loop it under each battery (while raising one side of the battery by prying up on one end), then tie the ends on top in a knot so the cord became an impromptu sling, and then try to lift the battery up with one hand by the cord while balancing the battery on the cord with the other. With a little finesse and some help from a lengthy 1/2" breaker bar (to help position the cord midway under the battery), this actually worked. (But I certainly wouldn't recommend it, and couldn't help thinking there must be a better way, and really has me wondering how the dealers get them out.) The GC2's don't have the tabs that will work with BB's battery strap. There is this type of battery removal tool, but I'm not sure I'd want to use it on my $1000 battery without something from BB or AS saying it was safe to use (provided there's enough clearance for it to even work).
So I had the batteries out and getting warmed up (first in my truck, and then at home), but how to get a Noco Genius 10 quickly... My local Home Depot isn't a big store and didn't have one in stock. AutoZone is supposed to carry them too, but the local stores had almost zero stock of any chargers (due to the winter storms). So I bought a Diehard 10 amp charger from a local Advanced Auto Parts (which did have a lithium charging profile), and initially tried to use it to charge both batteries (which were wired together in parallel with a set of jumper cables, effectively creating a 200AH battery the same as if they were in the trailer). At first the Diehard 10 seemed to work, but when it reached (what it claimed was) ~45% SOC after about five hours, it stopped charging. When I restarted the charging profile it jumped to 95% SOC and stopped charging a few minutes later. After several more restarts (which behaved the same), I gave up, returned the Diehard charger to Advanced Auto Parts, and ordered the Noco Genius 10 from Home Depot's web site. It showed up the next day. (I was shocked, this was two days sooner than the HD web site delivery estimate.)
So I set the (somewhat "hoakie") configuration back up with the jumper cables, and connected the Noco Genius 10 to one end, and connected a Fluke DVM on the other end (because the Noco was new to me, and wasn't sure I could trust it, and wanted to watch charging voltage carefully).
The batteries initially read ~10.5V (before the initial attempt with the Diehard charger). The voltage ramped up quickly initially (it was over 13V within an hour [on the Diehard charger]), but then it spent a long time (~15 hours total) between 13.2V to 13.5V and, after about 12 more hours on the Noco Genius 10 it indicated the batteries were fully charged with a reading of 14.58V (the last hour it climbed pretty quickly from 13.5V to 14.58V).
So far I'm pretty impressed with the Noco Genius 10 charger (I'll probably be able to use it on my F-150 as well, since sometimes it doesn't get driven as much as is needed to keep up its 12V SOC).
I've also crafted an impromptu battery sling from some spare PVC pipe and 12 gauge solid copper wire, to help with reinstalling the batteries (or if they need to be removed again in the future). If it works well when I reinstall the batteries I may post instructions/pictures.
__________________
2024 Flying Cloud 27FBT
2022 F-150 Lariat Powerboost, ProPride
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01-13-2025, 11:35 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master 

2023 25' Globetrotter
2021 16' Bambi
Forest Lake
, Minnesota
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndfan77
So I called BattleBorn to ask what the best path out of the situation was. The fellow I talked with said the internal heaters only draw from internal power (which of course was completely depleted), and that it was critical that the batteries not stay completely depleted for more than a couple days.
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Thanks for the account. I thought this comment was interesting, I thought once depleted it only requires waking up the BMS with a low voltage but I didn't think it was an urgent situation, just that eventually that is what is required. I don't have any experience waking up my batteries and I don't recall any such warning.
I have a handy-dandy Bluetooth Victron 5A charger that works really well and is supposed to wake up batteries, so there's a number of options.
Battery balance police, I'm guessing the small alligator clips are from the charger. They are both on the same battery. It probably doesn't make any difference in this situation but matters over time. It's better to have the charging span the batteries. So moving the negative clip to the second battery would be better.
__________________
2023 Globetrotter 25FBT "Curly"
2017 Audi Q7 3.0T
WBCCI 6343
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