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Old 07-04-2018, 12:13 PM   #1
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Progressive Dynamics 4045 need help

I have a PD 4045 converter.I cannot get 12v from shore power with battery disconnected.Why? Fuses all good.When battery was connected it eventually went dead.
All 110 works.If you are using this model I would love to hear how it should be connected as there is nothing on the PD site.Thanks
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Old 07-04-2018, 12:21 PM   #2
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Hi

Converters are generally pretty simple.

1) Two wires in supply 120V through an external breaker. Make sure there is 120V present with a multimeter.

2) Two wires out source 12V to the battery. Disconnect the + side ( being careful it does not hit anything, it's hot at +12V. It should have >+12 when there is 120 to the converter and zero when there is no 120V to the converter. If keeping the wire safe while disconnected, pull the negative off the batteries and then test the converter.

There are a couple of safety grounds involved as well. Don't mess with them.

Bob
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Old 07-04-2018, 05:25 PM   #3
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Someone in another thread had reversed the AC input and the DC output wires, so that may be something to look at if you did the install yourself. Being that the input hot/neutral are the same color as the output ground/hot it is easy to confuse the two if you don't notice (or had removed) the tiny stickers on the wires (at least on my PD4655TV).

There are two distinct sides to the board on my PD4655, one side is the AC input with black/white/green wires and then the other side has the DC output stage of white/black wires.

Another thing to look for would be blown fuses, especially reverse polarity fuses.
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Old 07-04-2018, 09:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams View Post
Someone in another thread had reversed the AC input and the DC output wires, so that may be something to look at if you did the install yourself. Being that the input hot/neutral are the same color as the output ground/hot it is easy to confuse the two if you don't notice (or had removed) the tiny stickers on the wires (at least on my PD4655TV).

There are two distinct sides to the board on my PD4655, one side is the AC input with black/white/green wires and then the other side has the DC output stage of white/black wires.

Another thing to look for would be blown fuses, especially reverse polarity fuses.
It is weird because all fuses are good including the two 30Amp for accidental incorrect battery polarity hook up.I am thinking the black and white DC are crossed .The white goes to the neutral bus and the black to 20amp breaker.The green goes to ground bus according to the one pic they have under troubleshooting on the site.So on other end black goes to pos bat.,white to neg bat. and green to ground.There is no on off switch.It does have instructions on testing.I just don't want to get fried.
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Old 07-05-2018, 07:06 AM   #5
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The AC side is typically wired with Romex (solid) wire.
The DC side is wired with stranded wire. Usually #10 or larger.
RV's typically use:
Black=positive
White=negative
On the DC side.

Do you have AC power to the converter?
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Old 07-05-2018, 07:14 AM   #6
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Hi

Ok, let's back up a bit.

Did this system (as configured) every work ok?

What's changed since it worked ok? ( put batteries back in?)

What has been installed in the last few months? (new converter?)

Rather than guess and guess, it's a lot easier to have information. If the converter is brand new / just installed that's important to know. If it's been in the trailer for a decade it is *very* unlikely that it has a wiring problem. It might have something minor off, but it didn't run for 10 years wired backwards

Bob
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Old 07-05-2018, 07:20 AM   #7
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Question to the “electrical experts”... the green wire...to ground bus. AC side only? As suggested above both sides.... is that a problem?
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaysteve View Post
It is weird because all fuses are good including the two 30Amp for accidental incorrect battery polarity hook up.I am thinking the black and white DC are crossed .The white goes to the neutral bus and the black to 20amp breaker.The green goes to ground bus according to the one pic they have under troubleshooting on the site.So on other end black goes to pos bat.,white to neg bat. and green to ground.There is no on off switch.It does have instructions on testing.I just don't want to get fried.
yep white in code is ground or negative... black is the hot or plus side... so from what you said.. its hooked up right...

so it appears its was hooked up right... but, some switching supplys are sensitive to charging bats... so without the battery it will shut down...

I have the PD 9280.. and it performs quiet well.. but it does go through the 4 stages after a while...

I love mine.. as now it never allows the battery to be discharged while on shore power... (has enough power to support the whole trailer where as the old AS system was only rated for 50 amps... trailer with everything on could draw as much as 75 amps... thus it would be drawing up to 25 amps out of the battery while on shore power as well... this now is taken care of by the new converter that has more than enough to support the whole trailer without getting into the bats..

... and you can leave it on all the time... while glamping.. as it won't hurt the bats by overcharging... and it QUIET... NO MORE HUMMING RIGHT ALONG... isn't technology great these days...

You might want to contact PD and ask the engineer about your problem... they seem to be very helpful... and where better to get the help than from the place that made it... I consult with them often while writing the conversion article...

By the way they just started the new warrentee prog... you can for 100 bux get a lifetime warrent... so that if ever anything goes bad they will replace or repair it.. so long as it was not abused or someone did something stupid that causes it to go out... sweet... as you know anything electronic is going to need attention after years of use...
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jftompkins View Post
Question to the “electrical experts”... the green wire...to ground bus. AC side only? As suggested above both sides.... is that a problem?
yep... green is ground ground only... also used for fault sensing... but its not to be used to carry current in the circuit... it goes to the cases and all to keep you from getting shocked..
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:46 AM   #10
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Hi

On the "DC" side of things, rather than a green wire, AS seems to use bare copper when they head to the chassis. Other than that, it is all black and white. As noted multiple times, the AC and DC wiring should be kept separate from each other. No jumpers of any sort from one side to the other.

Bob
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:04 PM   #11
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Here is a copy of the manual:
https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...glish-Only.pdf
Pay special attention to the wire diagram, you have to add jumpers to the converter from the board where the AC power cable comes into the box to the converter or it will not charge battery.
Good luck!
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:46 PM   #12
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Follow-up on PD4045 Issues...

bwaysteve, several people have responded to your question/submission. However, I do not see any response from you to say things are fixed. What is your status, or should I say the PD4045 status?

When I purchased my PD4655V 55 amp power converter (upgrade kit) it came with unit, fuse board and instruction sheet. Do you have all that?

I picture or two would be great to help diagnose current isses.

Let us know how you made out.
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:24 PM   #13
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Hi

We have a tendency to scare people away ....

Bob
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:03 PM   #14
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I'm curious why you have a 4045 in an Airstream. It wasn't stock for sure and replaced noting directly but somebody could have convinced you to install it or you could have just gone rouge. It's not what I would have recommended but it will certainly work if you have it connected correct.
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Old 07-24-2018, 11:07 PM   #15
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I should not have said gone rouge, that was stupid. It can work.
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Old 07-24-2018, 11:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Hi

We have a tendency to scare people away ....

Bob
Haha
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Old 07-25-2018, 11:01 AM   #17
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4045... isn't that the 45 amp converter... well underpowered for what you should put in. But, I guess you could run a couple of LEDs and the heater and not be digging into the batts... for the extra current.

Like the man said. nothing replaces extra HP... same with the converters... you never want to exceed the current capability of the converter for EVERYTHING ON in the RV. That way the Batts never see a load and drain down some when it happens... they total RV is carried by the converter saving them.

Most are putting 55 to 70 amp converters back in from PD... and using the 92xx series external to the breaker/fuse box. Works much better...

good luck..
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Old 07-25-2018, 03:29 PM   #18
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A 45 amp converter is plenty for your 65 coach.
Unless you have added a ton of 12 volt stuff.
When you install a converter using the existing wiring size you must keep that in mind.
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Old 07-25-2018, 04:02 PM   #19
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Hi

There continues to be a bit of confusion over just when a "45 amp" converter is expected to put out 45 amps. Most (but not all) converter data sheets are a bit thin on details. If your converter puts out 1/2 the rated current when the output >= 13 V that's very much part of working out how big it needs to be to support the loads in the trailer.

Bob
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Old 07-26-2018, 06:56 AM   #20
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Why would a converter put out half of it's rated power unless it is faulty.
A 45 amp converter has 540 watts of capacity. Even at 13 volts the current capacity is 41.5 amps; at 14 volts it is 38.5 amps. Still more than enough power for your coach.
Control boards usually consume about an amp.
Water pump 4-6 amps when running.
Furnace blower 6-8 amps when running.
Safety detection devices and lights along with cell phone chargers etc.
Add them up and you are still a long way from using battery power when on shore power.
Since no battery power is required there is plenty of capacity to keep a float charge on the batteries.
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