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Delcolight · 09-07-2021, 03:36 AM

Yes bulb worked and it's LED as far as flavors yes lots out there . Just looking to come up with best solution

lemley · 09-07-2021, 07:45 AM

The LED should light when the “power on” wire at the converter is connected to ground. Check that first. It should illuminate regardless of whether shore power is on.

1a. If that does not work, the “power on” fuse or the LED itself are bad. Easy check is voltage across the fuse with the power on lead at the converter grounded. It should read 0. If it does and still no light then either the wire to the overhead is open or there is a problem in the panel itself.

1b If the LED lights when the lead at the converter is grounded, then check the wiring of the wall wart. If it is a DC Wall wart, positive on the wall wart should be to +12 at the converter. Negative on the wall wart should go to the power on light at the converter. If the wiring is correct, then check voltage between the power on lead and +12 at the converter. Black lead to power on, red to +12. With everything hooked up and power applied you should see between +5 and +15 Volts DC. If you don’t have that then the wall wart is suspect.

Check all that out and post the results. If things aren’t working and you can, post a picture of the wall wart label and the wiring.

Wazbro · 09-08-2021, 11:44 AM

KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)
Just connect wall-wart wires to LED bulb wires, wall-wart has power light comes on, simple.

Do not connect to converter, that is just extra complexity to make it harder to get working and harder to keep it working. Just because you want to kind of copy an obsolete design that nobody uses?

Delcolight · 09-09-2021, 03:38 AM

I am all for simple. Sadly. Just hot wording it will do damage tot he control board some which are impossible to find. There was a reason done that way . The obsolete worked and can continue to work..

lemley · 09-09-2021, 09:43 PM

At least on mine connecting + on the wall wart to the LED would not work without removing the overhead panel and modifying the circuit board. The anode of the LED is connected to battery +12 inside that panel. The one wire you have to work with without removing and modifying the overhead is connected to the LED cathode. So to illuminate the LED you have to make the one lead you have available negative with respect to battery +12.

And if you look at my pics the connections are trivially simple.

lemley · 10-05-2021, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delcolight

I just tried the set up and sadly no joy.. I have 12vdc wall wart wired as shown in above diagram. I checked voltage from wall wart 12.3 ish VDC with maybe 500 milli amp. So.. last tech question I have is what power out put are you guys using.. I have tested other wall warts say 12 volt but when measure almost 16 to 18.. and lastly I tried to enlarge the picture to read the amps on the wall wart... I thought I saw 1.1 amps... Or are my eyes getting bad

Current rating really does not matter. It only takes about 20 mA to drive a diode.

If you have time, send pics of your setup.

uncle_bob · 10-06-2021, 07:03 AM

Hi

Led's come in a variety of sizes and setups. Some have no series resistor, they will instantly self destruct if you apply over 3V to them. Others are set up for 110V applications. They will do nothing at 12V. Some (but not many) are set up for AC. Most are set up for DC. You need to get the + and the - right both on the LED and the supply.

Neon bulbs are a bit similar. If you have a socket set up for one, there will be a ballast resistor wired to it. Put in any other sort of bulb and it's not going to light up.

If you short the feed wires together and measure at the bulb socket you should get < 1 ohm resistance. Unshort the feed wires and measure again. You should get infinite ohms. Hook up the wall wart and you should see the "12V" at the socket. If all that works and nothing lights up, it's the bulb / LED.

Bob

lemley · 10-07-2021, 07:52 AM

What Uncle Bob says is all true.

Unfortunately in this case there is no socket (the LED is soldered to a circuit board) and the entire assembly is a bit of a bear to get to. The assembly is mounted into the plastic overhead storage assembly and that entire assembly would have to be removed. I’d be afraid that i would crack the plastic. But if you do take the entire unit down you can make the circuit board repair alteration and things are much more straightforward.