PD4655 Install with Pictures

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by marter

Peter,

Sorry I've been offline for a couple days with my wife in our AS camping in the Black Hills and Badlands and didn't see this until today. I'll try to send the doc but connectivity is a challenge so it may have to wait until we get home Wed. Sorry for the delay.

Mike

No worries, you are doing what you are supposed to be doing! I installed mine on Friday, piece of cake. My second rodeo so it was easier than I remembered. Didn't even look at the instructions!

[marter]

Originally Posted by pcskier

No worries, you are doing what you are supposed to be doing! I installed mine on Friday, piece of cake. My second rodeo so it was easier than I remembered. Didn't even look at the instructions!

Glad it went well.

Happy trails,

Mike

[MIFC]

Installed the PD4655 (tip of the hat to Randy and Best Converter for a quick delivery) last night on our 2014 Flying Cloud. We replaced the Parallax 7355 in our unit.

Thanks to all of the information, successes, and learnings from the folks on this thread it went pretty well. We had to deal with the “little” screws (helped to have two of us to get those guys back in) and the “Y” running into the breaker, but due to all of the information here, we were ready for each little challenge.

Thanks again to this community for sharing information and allowing those of us who like to “DIY” do so successfully.

Now on to which batteries to buy . . .

[Julie-Bob]

We have a 2009 25’FB Classic. Two years ago I had one of the battery’s blowup while driving, we stop and thought it was a tire blowout. Drive home and ordered a PD 4655. Replaced the two battery’s and I changed out the AS single stage for a new PD4655. No problems with new PD4655. Took about an hour to change it out. They are very simple to change just follow the great instructions, if needed a real person will answer the phone and walk you though any problems. I installed the pendant under the fuse door so to see it I just open the door this way it’s not blinking at night

[jftompkins]

Same experience on the PD 4655... did have extra space on my 120 V panel for an extra breaker ($9.00 at Home Depot) for a dedicated circuit for the converter... as previously 201723FB...crimped two wire circuits into a pin connector in order to fit in the one breaker...

[Northerngirl]

I was successful in completing the exchange of the original converter in my 04 Safari yesterday. Purchased the PD last year but did not have access to the trailer and tools to do the job until now.

I also had to deal with the two wires pigtailed to the breaker. No extra space for another breaker so I simple did another pin connector with the two black wires.

Old converters fan ran a lot and it never got a fairly new 6 pack above 13.1 unless charged up on solar and I was always worried about leaving the trailer plugged in to long. Today the batteries are fully charged :-) and I still have not heard the converters fan come on.

Thanks to everyone for all the info. Would never have tackled this job if not for all the helpful photos and notes on how to do it.

[Skip Stone]

Happy belated 4th and thanks to all who served our country.

I recently installed the Progressive Dynamics 4655 converter in my 2016 20' Flying Cloud and initially made a few installation errors that were corrected with the assistance of the forum (please see thread #'s 126 - 133). Upon completion of the converter and the charge wizard, the small light on the wizard did not illuminate when the button was depressed. Randy sent an additional wizard and still - no illumination.

Randy has been increadibly patient and helpful by providing troubleshooting guidance. After installing the batteries (maintained at home on a C-Tek staged charger) and connecting shore power, I was instructed to measure the voltage on the positive and negative converter connections that attach to the top right of the circuit board (with numerous colored wires). While pressing the wizard button the meter should read: 14.3, then 13.6, then 13.2 , and finally settle at 13.6 . The reading never varied and stayed constantly at 13.6 and the wizard never illuminated. I also used the "jumper" connection from the circuit board to the bottom left of the converter with the same results.

I contacted Randy who provided a new converter, followed the proper install instructions, suggested measurements procedure and received the same results. I should mention that the batteries measured 12.6 on the see level II tank monitor without shore connection and 13.6 when connected to shore power.

I am a newbie, have a healthy fear of electricity, and very limited knowledge. Can anyone offer additional guidance and comments, as I am open to any suggestions to avoid a long road trip to a dealership.I was hopeful to complete this project to move onto replacing the OEM screens with no-see-um screens and research bike racks.

Finally, I apologize for the very long post.

Thanks, Skip

[marter]

Skip,
Sorry you're having trouble. Randy is an excellent resource along with this forum.

Do you have pictures of your wiring that you sent to Randy or could post here? Your issue is beyond my level of expertise in terms of what you're dealing with but others here are quite experienced.

As far as going back to the dealer, don't forget the fact this system and components are not unique to Airstream. A good local RV center might help.

Hang in there,

Mike

[SilverHouseDreams]

Skip, in addition to what Mike (marter) suggests a picture of your actual PD4655 board so that we can see how the jumpers are set would probably help.

[Skip Stone]

Here are several pictures I took last weekend. One is the overall set, one with jumper cable, and one with the voltmeter reading. If my pictures do not post I will try again.

Thanks for your assistance,
Skip

[Snowy]

I don't think I can solve the problem but the electrical engineer in me requests that you hook up your volt meter correctly. The black wire should plug into the common.

[Snowy]

Ok, so here are some things to try.

I just tested my PD4655.

Firstly, I do not have the wizard pendant so I am using the tiny push button which is on the 12v distribution board. You will find it hidden behind the thick white wire on your install.

A quick press puts it in bulk and I measured the voltage increasing to 14.xx or so.

Press and hold and it first goes to normal then float mode. Batteries are still connected and I have solar so voltage dropped to 13.5v which is what the solar is generating. For this let's just assume mine is working just fine.

Onto your setup. I suggest you disconnect the wizard pendant and connect the converter to the distribution board only. Let's remove the pendant from the debug. Then use the tiny button on the distribution board to test the converter functions.

As noted above. A quick press should put the converter into bulk mode, solid green led, and you should see the voltage jump.

Press and hold and the led should start to blink fast meaning normal mode. Continue holding and the converter should move to float represented by a slow flashing led.

Post the results.

[68 Overlander]

Skip,
It the first photo, you don't have the remote or the cable to the fuse board connected so that reading in your meter is normal. In the second photo it appears you do have it connected and will not matter if you are using the remote or the cable as pictured, it should still change modes manually. Remember you have to hold it for a couple seconds to cycle through the modes. Lets get to the bottom of this since nobody else is reporting this. I'm available to help and you have my number.

[Snowy]

Originally Posted by 68 Overlander

Skip,
It the first photo, you don't have the remote or the cable to the fuse board connected so that reading in your meter is normal. In the second photo it appears you do have it connected and will not matter if you are using the remote or the cable as pictured, it should still change modes manually. Remember you have to hold it for a couple seconds to cycle through the modes. Lets get to the bottom of this since nobody else is reporting this. I'm available to help and you have my number.

Good spot on the missing cable connection from converter to distribution board. No ribbon cable, no control.

[Skip Stone]

Snowy and Overland,

Thanks for the advise. I will attach the ribbon cable and trouble shoot this weekend. I'm very certain my wire connections are correct, and as stated - few if any have posted similar problems ( making me certain it's me) and be certain to measure correctly.

I will try to tolerate the extreme Florida heat and see if I can complete this project. If the ribbon cable provides the expected measurements, could it be possible I have two malfunctioning pendents?

Skip

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by Skip Stone

Snowy and Overland,

Thanks for the advise. I will attach the ribbon cable and trouble shoot this weekend. I'm very certain my wire connections are correct, and as stated - few if any have posted similar problems ( making me certain it's me) and be certain to measure correctly.

I will try to tolerate the extreme Florida heat and see if I can complete this project. If the ribbon cable provides the expected measurements, could it be possible I have two malfunctioning pendents?

Skip

We're going to get to the bottom Skip. Hang in there. I doubt you have 2 bad pendants. Attach the ribbon cable to the fuse board and report back. I will test your unit this weekend and see if I can duplicate.

[Skip Stone]

Snowy and 68 Overlander,

I was able to tolerate the heat and performed the recommended troubleshooting procedures. I first utilized the jumper cable, pressed the small button and the green light was blinking at approximately 1x /sec. The voltmeter read 13.7, and then when I pressed and held the button, the green light turned solid and the meter read 14.5 and then went back to the 1 second blink. As I continually held the button the red light did not illuminate.

I then attached the pendant and followed the same procedure utilizing the pendant button. A quick press produced a blinking green pendant light at the 1 second interval and the voltmeter measured 13.7. Pressing and holding the pendant button produced a solid green light and a measurement of 14.5, and then reverted back to the blinking light and a reading of 13.5.

I thought I would complete the trial and used the first pendant and believe there was a short, as I went to position the long cable and the light went on and off and reading to 12.7.

I should mention that in all my former attempts, the green light never illuminated by the large white cable , or the pendant?

Hopefully the converter and pendant are now performing correctly and I did also purchase new interstate AGM batteries.

Thanks to all for you patience and understanding,

Skip

[Skip Stone]

Sorry, I forgot to attach the recent pictures,

Skip

[devilsbox]

Let me see if I've got this right.

I have a 2017 27FB with Parallax 8355 converter that I want to upgrade.

So I need to buy a Progressive Dynamics 4655 with remote pendant PD92201TV.

I won't need to replace the 12 volt 15 amp fuse block.

I could go with a Boondocker model but would then have to cut and splice.

That about right?

Larry

[Fred L]

Originally Posted by devilsbox

Let me see if I've got this right.

Larry

Larry, easiest and most accurate way is to call Randy at Best Converter, aka Overlander 68 above post.