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Old 05-30-2020, 05:20 PM   #1
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Novice help

I know almost nothing about electrical work, but figured I could switch out a dead refrigerator fan. Seemed simple enough, a red and a blue wire. Unfortunately the blue wire is wrapped in this hard plastic tube and appears connected to a metal coupling of some sort. Any advice on how to proceed here?

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Old 05-30-2020, 05:36 PM   #2
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Snap Switch, Fuse or Fan: It is one, or more, of these items

Dead Fan... check the FUSE before proceeding.

If you install the wiring wrong, the fuse will blow immediately. Reverse the wire polarity.

Your fan is similar, if not the same, as mine in the 2006 Safari 23 foot. Noisy, as well.

Next is the Snap Switch. When the ammonia lines heat up, the switch SNAPS internally for power ON. When the coils cool... OFF. Jackson Center sent me one when mine went bad. It did not work either, ordered one on EBay that did work. P.o.S. I say.

Amateur test of Snap Switch: Put a lighter to it, heat it up. Fan starts... good. Fan does not start... fan could be bad or a bad fuse. Snap Switches are problematic.

Find the Snap switch. If you have a voltage tester that checks Open or Closed... that would help. Same with the fuse, if you find it. Look to see if it is good. If not you will likely see a black carbon spot in the center, or the center missing/melted.

Snap switch should be touching the ammonia line to get heat off of it. If not touching... wire it to the larger tubing to get maximum heat to function. (another test you can do)

I fought with this thing in the 2006 23 footer that had the Microwave, so you need the fan. Without the microwave... the refrigerator vents from the roof. First thing I looked for in the 25 and our current 27 foot. No fan... no problems, ever again.

Good luck. I still test 9 volt batteries using my tongue to measure voltage. If this helps, great. Get use to it. I am incompetent, but my polarity is excellent. I wired my 100watt Costco Solar Panel to my batteries and... it works.

Fuse. Snap Switch. Fan.
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Old 05-30-2020, 05:36 PM   #3
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Looks like a simple crimp connector: if so, it's .
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Old 05-30-2020, 06:22 PM   #4
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They crimp it and heat it to shrink for water tight. I think itís the most reliable.
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Old 05-30-2020, 06:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Eklund View Post
Dead Fan... check the FUSE before proceeding.

If you install the wiring wrong, the fuse will blow immediately. Reverse the wire polarity.

Your fan is similar, if not the same, as mine in the 2006 Safari 23 foot. Noisy, as well.

Next is the Snap Switch. When the ammonia lines heat up, the switch SNAPS internally for power ON. When the coils cool... OFF. Jackson Center sent me one when mine went bad. It did not work either, ordered one on EBay that did work. P.o.S. I say.

Amateur test of Snap Switch: Put a lighter to it, heat it up. Fan starts... good. Fan does not start... fan could be bad or a bad fuse. Snap Switches are problematic.

Find the Snap switch. If you have a voltage tester that checks Open or Closed... that would help. Same with the fuse, if you find it. Look to see if it is good. If not you will likely see a black carbon spot in the center, or the center missing/melted.

Snap switch should be touching the ammonia line to get heat off of it. If not touching... wire it to the larger tubing to get maximum heat to function. (another test you can do)

I fought with this thing in the 2006 23 footer that had the Microwave, so you need the fan. Without the microwave... the refrigerator vents from the roof. First thing I looked for in the 25 and our current 27 foot. No fan... no problems, ever again.

Good luck. I still test 9 volt batteries using my tongue to measure voltage. If this helps, great. Get use to it. I am incompetent, but my polarity is excellent. I wired my 100watt Costco Solar Panel to my batteries and... it works.

Fuse. Snap Switch. Fan.


Iíll have to read through this a couple times to grasp it all, but I could not find that fan fuse. It is either not in the primary fuse panel or unlabeled. Any advice on where the fuse is on a 25 FC 2015.
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Old 05-30-2020, 06:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyguyscott View Post
Looks like a simple crimp connector: if so, it's .


Great, thanks for the link.
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Old 06-17-2020, 06:03 PM   #7
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I just wanted to wrap up this thread.

So my loud factory fan went out on my Dometic fridge on my 25FC 15í, this fan is a common complaint about this model. I reviewed just about everything online and the help here. After doing that thereís a clear sense most are replacing with computer fan(s). I saw only videos on replacing the loud fan with quieter solutions (often involving 2 fans) and umm, hanging it in weird ways, wrapped in bungee chords, some lit up like gamer computers, etc etc. Thatís just not really what Iím going for, Iíd like to keep mine factory. The fan is indeed loud, but Airstreams IMO are loud and it just somehow adds to the ďIím living at the international space stationĒ vibe that I love about interior aluminum exposed Airstreams.

From reading online and the gestures of my RV guys, some think the original fan is superior.

So, I finally decided to replace with the factory Rodale DC brushless fan that was in it using my justification above. $140 from Airstream, $39 from Amazon, Amazon delivered in 2 days.

I was all for changing it myself, just 2 screws and it was out of there, removed some black tape and a plastic housing the wires were in then I saw the way it was clamped and lost confidence. Iíd never seen that before. So, I paid $53 to my local RV guys today to install it. They cut off the wire and stripped it just like youíd imagine they would. The fuse was bad, RV guy says fuse goes bad when fan does.

Was nice to catch up with my local RV folks (although their germ hygiene wasnít up to my preferred standards) it was nice to support my local shop and watch a pro do it, I always learn something with every project. Click image for larger version

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Old 06-17-2020, 06:08 PM   #8
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Oh, and my fan was dead...I heard it dying over about a week span.
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