Quote:
Originally Posted by batt
Thanks for your response! a few questions.I am in the process of a complete redo of the land yacht. As you have read I am into the electrical part. I have the Progressive Dynamics 45amp converter installed , have run the 12o circuits.
My concern was monitoring the two batteries, since I plan on adding an additional battery. Did you add a reset disconnect on each battery, so if one failed you could isolate it and keep on using the one good one?
Has the addition of the TriMetric Battery monitor been an expense you found worth the effort and $ ?
I see where Zep pulled the old control panel and made up his own set up. I don't ( at this point) care as long as the level indicators work. So all the tank indicators should work off one of the 12v circuits?
The red and back wire on the shunt of the Univolt ran to the ammeter. The gray wire did what , just indicate that the battery power was on? What did you do with it?
If no shunt is used the battery GD (black wire) and the Trailer GD ( white wire)would be routed to the Converter 12v ground post, or just wired together?
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The Tin Pickle has two group 27 batteries, which I hardwired together in the battery box. My experience is that by the time I notice battery failure, both are dead.
Both the ammeter and voltmeter in the Tin Pickle's "Airstream Central Control" panel are non-functional; the Trimetric has allowed me to keep tabs on loads, battery condition, etc. I used the bigger shunt, as I have a 1000W inverter was well; even w/ that there's no problem identifying .1 amp loads. I like being able to monitor state of charge - esp. when boondocking.
I've not yet dealt with the almost completely non-functional panel; the level indicators, etc. don't work either on the FW tank; we removed the black tank when we installed the composting toilet.
I'm a big fan of running all the grounds to a single point as much as practical; differences in ground potential are a real magical mystery tour in their effect on various bits of electronics.
- Bart