Let's install a Victron 712 _outside_ the AS

[Kalashnikov]

I installed my Victron 712 battery monitor outside the Airstream.


Purchased a 1.5" conduit box from Home Depot, these are intended to allow connections between legs of household wiring. I smeared Goop at the exit points to surround the wiring.






Used some reducer bushings also from Home Depot to make the wiring exit points narrower. Glued using construction adhesive, but Goop would have been better.




Shunt all glued up within conduit. If I did it again I'd used screws on the shunt, but it shouldn't matter




5x5x3 transparent IP66 box from Amazon, 2x2x4 1-gang box from Home Depot. The smaller box fits like a glove within the larger one! It will provide a mounting base for the BMV and also secondary moisture protection (both are outdoor rated.)



Link to amazon box:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1








Cut a hole in the 1-gang box cover to mount the BMV. It is very secure.






Dual Trojan T105 batteries. Removed one to provide space to work. Will be removing the Zamp solar port (could have left it but I won't be using it, ever.)






Zamp port removed, holes painted. I filled them in with Goop.






Nested boxes mounted! I used two SS screws from inside the battery bay, sealed with Goop.






Shunt all wired up!






IT'S ALIVE!







The battery bay is very tidy






As a finishing touch I added some 1/4" stick-on weather strip to the front edges of the battery box to keep watch from splashing in. The lid is very snug.







All buttoned up! It took a couple weeks of planning & ordering, about two hours to install.

[lsbrodsky]

So why do you want your battery monitor outside? Seems like any effort to put it inside would pay off if your cell phone does not work. When I had a Trimetric, back in the dark ages, I had my shunt in the battery box to minimize wiring issues, but it was not that hard to get the wires to the monitor into the front of the trailer from there.
Larry

[Kalashnikov]

I want to minimize running wires. My BT works well with it outside.


If my approach has problems I may end up pulling the data wire inside - time will tell!

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

So why do you want your battery monitor outside? Seems like any effort to put it inside would pay off if your cell phone does not work. When I had a Trimetric, back in the dark ages, I had my shunt in the battery box to minimize wiring issues, but it was not that hard to get the wires to the monitor into the front of the trailer from there.
Larry

[Kalashnikov]

Forgot to mention that I used a 3ft data cable from Amazon instead of the 30' supplied with the BMV


Link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ROBERT CROSS]

Great install, but as noted... why?
Especially the monitor... more useful inside where it can be seen.

I made sure everything was inside, out of the weather.

Bob
🇺🇸

[AirMiles]

I think this is an excellent installation which I may copy. It all runs on Bluetooth so access is not an issue. A major reason I didn't install a BMV-712 is because I didn't want to cut into the existing wiring to install it inside the Airstream. With this installation, all the existing wiring stays the same with one added short cable between the battery and the shunt. It could be easily removed to sell the Airstream.

I like the option to easily return my Airstream to stock, with no traces of customization, so my Airstream retains its trade-in value. Dealers do not want customized Airstreams. I returned my 2017 FC25FB back to stock to trade it in.

[ROBERT CROSS]

What existing wiring would need to be cut?
I didn't have to cut any. Just run the monitor wire back to the shunt. (5ft)
The dongle is secured on the SS front window.

Bob
🇺🇸

[pcskier]

I would hardly think a BMV 712 Monitor installed inside or outside would be a customization that would reduce value at trade-in time. The opposite actually. Maybe not in dollars, but in desirability.


Neat job, Kalishnikov. Well done.

[ProTech]

Why? I've never seen any need to look at the 712 unit, let alone if it was outside, the Bluetooth works great. It's not that hard to get the shunt into the trailer too. Sorry, just my opinion.

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

What existing wiring would need to be cut?
I didn't have to cut any. Just run the monitor wire back to the shunt. (5ft)
The dongle is secured on the SS front window.

Bob
🇺🇸

I'd need to cut into the inverter wire for sure and maybe I could avoid cutting into the negative bus bar wire by adding another negative wire there. Then I'd need to run the temperature probe out to the batteries. This example puts everything in waterproof boxes on the tongue, requires no cutting of wires, and could be removed in minutes.

Add value to the Airstream? Hardly. One well regarded dealer on these boards said my 400W custom solar installation hurt the value of my Airstream because they could not warranty the installation. It had more value if I removed the solar and put it all back to stock. Customizing an Airstream adds value to me, but not to a dealer. They want then stock.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

I'd need to cut into the inverter wire for sure and maybe I could avoid cutting into the negative bus bar wire by adding another negative wire there. Then I'd need to run the temperature probe out to the batteries. This example puts everything in waterproof boxes on the tongue, requires no cutting of wires, and could be removed in minutes.

Add value to the Airstream? Hardly. One well regarded dealer on these boards said my 400W custom solar installation hurt the value of my Airstream because they could not warranty the installation. It had more value if I removed the solar and put it all back to stock. Customizing an Airstream adds value to me, but not to a dealer. They want then stock.

I don't understand why you needed to cut all those wires just to install the one small wire that goes to the monitor...Inside where it is most useful.
As far as the shunt goes that is your decision, for myself it's inside, in a dry, open area where even condensation will evaporate.

TETO👍

Reminds me a bit of my wife's M/B...engineered well but poorly designed...almost impossible to get to anything to work on anything.
Oh well, you can always tell a German, but you can't tell 'em much.

Bob
🇺🇸

[waninae39]

hhmm! why leave it outside . we moved the lion battery inside and so was the monitoring setup

running wire? it was very easy in our as.

we now have a full monitoring station above the fridge.

[Troutboy]

Great idea and nice work... mine is hidden inside, but i never look at it.... so BT is fine....

[Kalashnikov]

Originally Posted by waninae39

hhmm! why leave it outside . we moved the lion battery inside and so was the monitoring setup

running wire? it was very easy in our as.

we now have a full monitoring station above the fridge.

Your picture illustrates why I _didn't_ want it inside. I'll monitor my system from the comfort of my bed

My goals:
- Minimize new wire runs
- Minimize interior panels (eg. BMV display)
- Allow unit to be serviced if necessary (both shunt & BMV are behind screw-down lids)

Yet I understand why some people want all their equipment inside, there are some clear advantages. But for me it's nice to have it all just working in the background.


BTW, if anyone is actually thinking of duplicating my approach, note that the clearance between the electrical box and the trailer frame is rather small. You'll need to use a philips screw bit and needle nose pliars to attach the face plate.

[roadkill367]

Kal, I just like the fact you wear Crocs haha. Inside or outside who cares the approach to YOUR problem you wanted to solve was genius and I might just copy it.

[Josephine517]

I just upgraded to Trojan T105s and used your idea to install a Victron 712 shunt in the battery box. However, I did run the monitor cable inside the coach and mounted the monitor with Velcro in the couch storage compartment for easy access if I need to get to it. I also used pieces of a 45 degree elbow to attach end caps to the shunt box. Drilled and sanded smooth battery cable entry holes in the end caps. I also wired the Zamp port the shunt. I use portable solar. Thanks for sharing your idea.

[Kalashnikov]

Originally Posted by Josephine517

I just upgraded to Trojan T105s and used your idea to install a Victron 712 shunt in the battery box. However, I did run the monitor cable inside the coach and mounted the monitor with Velcro in the couch storage compartment for easy access if I need to get to it. I also used pieces of a 45 degree elbow to attach end caps to the shunt box. Drilled and sanded smooth battery cable entry holes in the end caps. I also wired the Zamp port the shunt. I use portable solar. Thanks for sharing your idea.
Attachment 362698

Looks clean!

[PB_NB]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

I don't understand why you needed to cut all those wires just to install the one small wire that goes to the monitor...Inside where it is most useful.
As far as the shunt goes that is your decision, for myself it's inside, in a dry, open area where even condensation will evaporate.

TETO👍

Reminds me a bit of my wife's M/B...engineered well but poorly designed...almost impossible to get to anything to work on anything.
Oh well, you can always tell a German, but you can't tell 'em much.

Bob
🇺🇸

Hi Bob,

How far away from the negative battery post were you able to install the shunt? Is it advantageous to have it really close to the battery? If one is to put the battery on the tongue and have the shunt inside the trailer tapped into the negative battery lead, would that still work? Do all the connections in and out of the battery have to go through the shunt? I haven't got the unit yet so this may be redundant. Just about to order it.

It looks like either way, the wires still need to be pulled inside at one point in this installation.

My plan is to install a Lithium battery on the tongue in-place of the Lead Acid one that is there. Then disconnect the on-board charger and install a new charger for shore hook ups. I would like to put the 712 inside but I am trying to minimize the wire pulling but would like to keep the battery outside.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by PB_NB

Hi Bob,

How far away from the negative battery post were you able to install the shunt? Is it advantageous to have it really close to the battery? If one is to put the battery on the tongue and have the shunt inside the trailer tapped into the negative battery lead, would that still work? Do all the connections in and out of the battery have to go through the shunt? I haven't got the unit yet so this may be redundant. Just about to order it.

It looks like either way, the wires still need to be pulled inside at one point in this installation.

My plan is to install a Lithium battery on the tongue in-place of the Lead Acid one that is there. Then disconnect the on-board charger and install a new charger for shore hook ups. I would like to put the 712 inside but I am trying to minimize the wire pulling but would like to keep the battery outside.

Our Classic has two battery compartments on the front of the AS behind the LP tanks.

I mounted the shunt just below the negative buss bar, behind the converter. (photo taken at the first converter upgrade in '06.
Our monitor is about 4' from the buss bar. Not a problem as supplied connection wire is about 6' long. I bought a proud surface mount and attached it to the 'mouse fur' with velcro next to the street side front side window, the wifi dongle is also mounted on that window.

Bob
🇺🇸

[PB_NB]

Thanks, that makes the install more direct! Did you install Victron temp sensor as well?