Quote:
Originally Posted by campadk
I see that you put the shunt inside. I was thinking of putting it right in the battery box. Especially since there may be some electrical loads that you bypass if connecting under the dinette. I know for sure that connecting the shunt inside will be bypassing the electric jack. No sure if anything else is bypassed.
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I wrestled with the location for a long time. At the battery was my preferred location, but my existing battery box just didn't have the height/room to support a safe/secure mounting location. I have a buddy that installed the shunt inline, finding the battery cables to be so stiff that the shunt doesn't move at all (good). I just didn't have room for that inside the metal box
And I think you're right about the jack. I decided the jack doesn't get used enough between charging opportunities to be worth considering or the effort to rewire it for monitoring. I never fully determined the full electrical path of the jack. I've only spotted the Pos. lead, without taking anything apart. I think it likely it relies on frame grounding? If so, it may be included in the monitoring.
I'll run an experiment to watch for activity on the monitor while Carolyn operates the jack and let you know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by campadk
Also the Link 10 documentation mentions the shunt should be 7" or less from the battery. I measure about 3ft from battery to inside the dinette were the wire terminal blocks are located. Not sure how much that will effect accuracy.
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My Xantrex install guide makes no mention of specific distances in this regard, only stressing the importance of keeping the main cables as short as possible. I think in practice I'm going to be interested in "am I approaching 70%, 60%, 50% remaining capacity?", not so much 65.42% versus 65.41% or really even 12.88V versus 12.87V.
Quote:
Originally Posted by campadk
Assuming I connect the shunt inside the dinette, I'm thinking that it needs to connect between the battery connection showin here, and the terminal strip. This however bypasses the electric jack which is wired directly to the battery terminals up front.
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(Again, true about the jack, I think.)
My coach was wired with two separate Pos. and Neg. leads from the battery box into the wiring block area (on set dedicated to the 600W inverter). So I had to join the two Neg. leads at the battery-side of the shunt, and re-split the load-side back out. I like this arrangement because of the potential load from the inverter.
Your factory wiring is arranged much better than mine was!
I left the components in position to avoid turning the interior wall into swiss cheese, but I was baffled as to why the factory installers seemed to go out of their way to criss-cross the Pos. and Neg. components as much as possible. I'm no electrician, but I would have grouped the Pos. bus together with the battery disconnect on one side, with plenty of distance away from the grounding block. Then the incoming battery cables would lay out cleaningly, along with all the other cabling! I mean, these folks have been laying out wiring for
decades, and still haven't figured this stuff out? *sigh*