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Old 06-28-2022, 03:46 PM   #1
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2015 25' FB International
King George , VA
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Issue with new AGM upgrade

I have a 2015 25FB international serenity. Just swapped out our flooded lead acid batteries for AGMís (12V Diehards from Advance Auto). The batteries are fully charged, but Iím getting an intermittent loss of power approximately every 20 seconds and everything cycles off then on (fans and lights). Iím positive the connections are exactly the same as they were with flooded batteries. Also, the ĒSee-LevelĒ meter says voltage is 11.8 amps when itís really 12.8 (i checked at the batteries with a voltmeter). Advance Auto checked the batteries and confirmed they are good. Wondering if the issue is my converter. Has anyone else had this issue? If so, how did you solve?
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Old 06-28-2022, 05:59 PM   #2
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Today I checked the voltage coming into the panel box with my voltmeter , 12.3 V. That's with everything turned off. At the battery, I measure 12.8 V. Turn on the lights and the voltage at the panel box drops to 11.8 V but batteries still measure 12.8 V. Looking under the bed, I can see where battery lines are connected to something, but I can't get to them to check. I ready something on another blog about possibly needing to recalibrate the converter. Does anyone know how to do that?
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Old 06-28-2022, 07:04 PM   #3
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disconnect the batteries and do a LOAD rest on each, not just a volt meter. If they differ, there may be a bad cell. If OK, reinstall and check ???
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Old 06-28-2022, 09:32 PM   #4
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Hi

If you do a lithium conversion, you need to fiddle with the converter.

If the voltage in your system drops by a volt as you go along the wiring, then something is not connected properly *or* you have a really massive load. Best guess is that some of the connections are loose somewhere.

There is no magic to tracing wires through an AS trailer. They do not have exact "always there" locations for everything / unchanging over the years. Also with a 2015 you may be talking about multiple owners. You certainly are talking about multiple techs fiddling with this or that.

Fun !!

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Old 06-29-2022, 10:37 AM   #5
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The voltages you are getting indicate that your charger converter is not working. It has either tripped the breaker, or itís fried. A working charger/converter will put out a minimum of 13.2 volts. Voltages of 12.8 and less indicate only battery voltage without the charger/converter.
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Old 06-29-2022, 04:54 PM   #6
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I reset all the breakers and still have the same issue. Maybe it’s a bad converter. Are they hard to replace?
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Old 06-29-2022, 04:55 PM   #7
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Thank you for the suggestion. I will try that.
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Old 06-30-2022, 09:53 AM   #8
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Hi

As reported, your voltages indicate a problem with the wiring. You might also have a converter problem. The gotcha is that there is no way to know until you find the wiring problem.

If you want to simply shotgun the problem:

1) Run new wires to the batteries

2) Replace the DC distribution block ( under something in the front of the trailer )

3) Replace the converter

4) Replace the inverter

5) Replace the solar converter

6) Replace the fuse panel

7) Replace the use/store relay and circuit board

8) Replace the batteries, you might have a bad one.

( and on and on and on ....).

Simply replacing this and that without really knowing what the issue is will take a lot of time and get expensive pretty quickly. If tracing things out is getting to complicated, hire a tech to dig into it.

Bob
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Old 07-05-2022, 03:29 PM   #9
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I replaced the batteries, converter and fuse panel. Did not solve the problem. I pulled the front queen bed out and the removed the access panel for the distribution box and inverter. I found a blue wire that appears to have been cut but i can figure out where it goes.See posted pictures. Any ideas?
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Old 07-05-2022, 05:50 PM   #10
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I figured out that this is just a Cat 5 communication cable. Itís not the cause of the voltage drop issue.
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Old 07-05-2022, 05:52 PM   #11
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Took the batteries back to Advance
Auto and they checked out fine.
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Old 07-06-2022, 10:44 AM   #12
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Hi

The way to fix this is to trace out what's going on. You need to measure voltages and currents on the various circuits. Randomly replacing / guessing about this or that is not a great plan ...

Bob
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Old 07-07-2022, 06:58 PM   #13
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I think it might be the battery disconnect solenoid. Voltage at the solenoid is roughly 1 V less than at batteries with load. I ordered a replacement. Will post an update after the install.
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Old 07-07-2022, 10:41 PM   #14
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Bartyczak, sounds like youíre onto something with the solenoid.

Just curious if your new DieHard AGM batteries are deep cycle or standard auto AGMís; there is a difference.

Regarding the converter, see if you can find a model number and check with the manufacturer if that model supports an AGM charge profile. The WFCO Converter in our 2019 supports both Flooded Lead Acid and AGM without any changes.

Hope the solenoid fixes your issue!
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Old 07-10-2022, 01:19 PM   #15
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Still scratching my head. So far i have replaced the batteries, converter, fuse board, and battery disconnect solenoid. Voltage is still dropping by 1V with just the lights on. Now getting 13.4V out of converter, but the load drops to 12.0 volts when I turn on any lights. Theyíre LED lights so i know they shouldnít be drawing that much power. Voltage at the batteries holds steady at 12.8V. One thing I figured out today is that voltage coming into the + bus plate is 12.8V, but drops as I move along gthe bus terminal touching other cables. Now wondering if I need to replace the bus terminal.

BTW, i made and appt with my local Airstream service center and they cant get me in until OCT! We leave for Wyoming in August. Hope i can figure this out on my own. Otherwise the trip to WY will be tough since none of our campsites have electric hookups. I was counting on batteries to get us through 😬
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Old 07-10-2022, 03:38 PM   #16
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If your lights and fans are blinking off and on, then you must have a loose connection somewhere that is common to all of them. Is there a common negative buss bar you could ck? Maybe a crack in it causing a bad connection or a loose wire? Jiggle the wires to see if you can make the lights blink. It's rare but a wire could be broken under it's insulation where you can't see it.
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Old 07-11-2022, 09:20 AM   #17
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Did it work before you swapped the batteries? If so you did something wrong.

Can you disconnect the batteries all together and just run off the converter. It should output 12v or so. And power a few lights just fine. Then reconnect just one battery and see if it makes a difference.

Good troubleshooting is all about systematic isolation and procedures. It's a pain, but there is no magic press this and it will work. As Bob mentioned you need to trace wires back and try to make a diagram of how it's wired.
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Old 07-11-2022, 11:59 AM   #18
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Hi

Randomly swapping this and that out will take a long time. It also costs a lot of money. The problem may well be a wire connection somewhere. Swapping out wires to find a loose fitting is a real pain .....

For the same money you will spend swapping every component in the trailer out, you can hire a local RV tech many times over and have him fix it in an afternoon.

Bob
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Old 07-11-2022, 03:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Randomly swapping this and that out will take a long time. It also costs a lot of money. The problem may well be a wire connection somewhere. Swapping out wires to find a loose fitting is a real pain .....

For the same money you will spend swapping every component in the trailer out, you can hire a local RV tech many times over and have him fix it in an afternoon.

Bob
You have to hope you don't get an RV tech who is a parts swapper too. Some parts aren't refundable.
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Old 07-12-2022, 08:40 AM   #20
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Good troubleshooters are hard to find. Most guys don't have the knowledge with electrics or electronics. This is evident in the automotive industry. Go to your mechanic and tell him you have an electrical issue. Good luck. No different with all of the systems in an RV.

Isolate and systematically go through it. There is no other way.
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