Is AS installing multi stage chargers in newer trailers?

[dasams]

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

Perhaps it has something to do with the new converter/charger used in 2018 models in place of the Parallax.

My *guess* is that AS feels the new converters won't fry the batteries so no harm in leaving them connected while on shore power. Still seems silly not to have a true battery disconnect switch.

Oh well, at least it'll work while boondocking. This per the manual "The OFF position is intended for storage of the trailer or when power conservation is desired."

[Lara Me]

Ok, the Boondocker 1260HW arrived and I’m reviewing the posts here to prepare for wiring, but I’m feeling kinda dumb. The three AC wires coming from the Boondocker connect to (i) common ground (the middle green wire) and the other two connect to (ii) common rail and (iii) the line coming from the breaker.

It’s the last two I’m confused about, as they are both black. Which one is which? Shouldn’t one of them be white? How can I tell which of the two black wires goes to the common rail and which goes to the line? Here’s a pic of the wires on the Boondocker.

[gator.bigfoot]

Originally Posted by Lara Me

Which one is which? Shouldn’t one of them be white? How can I tell which of the two black wires goes to the common rail and which goes to the line? Here’s a pic of the wires on the Boondocker.

Attachment 302967

It doesn't matter which wire is connected to neutral and hot. It's AC with a ground wire. It would matter if it were an extension cord or lamp since then you could wire the outside if the light socket to the Hot instead of the small tab at the bottom. But not in this case. That is why those types of connections have a plug with a polarity on it (i.e. one of the prongs is wider so it can only plug in one way). With the case of most electronics the very first thing they do (after connecting to an internal fuse) is connect to a transformer to drop the voltage. Then the AC is typically rectified to DC via various methods so in reality the device could care less which side was hot and which side was neutral.

[Lara Me]

Thanks Gator. Randy confirmed the same before I saw your reply.

I bought a 2ft 8 gauge wire to tackle the chassis ground from the converter and now I just have to open up the panel and follow Gypsy’s helpful instructions.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Lara Me

Thanks Gator. Randy confirmed the same before I saw your reply.

I bought a 2ft 8 gauge wire to tackle the chassis ground from the converter and now I just have to open up the panel and follow Gypsy’s helpful instructions.

The existing wires on my Boondocker were long enough to work with, in my AS install. Couple comments: Make sure your power is disconnected at the battery and no shore power connected. When you disconnect the circuit board and remove, you should not have to disconnect wires, just set aside, unscrew the converter, and carefully slide converter out. I had the Boondocker close by so I could see the difference in size and wire connections. I took a picture. Then I carefully disconnected the old converter. I took it to my workbench, removed the fan assembly from the chassis, then I drilled out the spot welds on the cover, and removed the circuit board from the plastic clips. I then placed the Boondocker on the old chassis mount in the middle, marked the mounting holes and drilled 4 holes to mount. I also cut the original fan hole to a larger oval shaped opening to allow more air, even though I did not put the cover back on, just to insure good circulation. I put 4 plastic spacers 1/8", on the mounting screws between Boondocker and chassis, to get it off the chassis floor a little in case of unforeseen water issues due to leaks at some point.. When you re-connect, you can use existing ground/power/neutral connections and you should be fine.

[Lara Me]

Completed the install today - it was mostly uneventful. I did video portions and I may try to put together a simple YouTube video.

I left the original fan guard on the chassis to prevent any critters from wandering in and eating the wiring. I reused all the stock wires except I did use my 2" of 8 gauge wire for the chassis ground. I was able to reuse several of the sheet screws for the old chassis to mount the Boondocker. I didn't have rivets to rivet the cover back on, but I left one rivet on and rotated the cover, then used a few sheet screws I had lying around to secure the cover. I did use a dremel to cut off the sheet screws so the chassis would slide back in easily. I didn't need to raise the Boondocker off the chassis as the chassis is already 4" off the floor in the 27 International (I think it was on the floor on my previous 28 FC.

Routing the AC wires took a bit more effort than I expected but otherwise no issues.

Main issue with the Boondocker will be if the fuses on the Boondocker ever blow. On the stock converter, the fuses are mounted near the fuse board and are easily accessible, but if they blow on the Boondocker, I'll have the pleasure of disconnecting everything to pull the chassis to replace a fuse.

Thanks for all the feedback and I hope to pay it forward with a video.

[Lara Me]

I put together a short installation video that also shows the mods necessary to reuse the old chassis. Hope it helps the next person!

https://youtu.be/BcShxL1xO7Y

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Lara Me

I put together a short installation video that also shows the mods necessary to reuse the old chassis. Hope it helps the next person!

https://youtu.be/BcShxL1xO7Y

u da man! Thanks.

[Jason in TX]

Seems like the 2020 now has an advertised 55 amp multistage converter.

UPDATE: Oh... the WF8955 says 55 amp. Gotcha. Back to the regularly scheduled program.

https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-8955-55-amp/