Inverter Connection

[wwkayaker]

Upon pulling my Inverter (which I have never toyed with) to diagnose my lack of 120 on my Inverter Outlets, this is what I discovered:

1) Chassis ground not connected (easy fix, but how?? No need to answer

2) Power Out connector was a pinch style connector, loosely snapped together without any of the securing/clamping screws! Really Airstream?!?! This is a WF-600T

I am looking for suggestions on what connector would work best in this situation (picture attached).
I’d like a plug style connector not a hard wired connection.

[vanderwielen]

Originally Posted by wwkayaker

Upon pulling my Inverter (which I have never toyed with) to diagnose my lack of 120 on my Inverter Outlets, this is what I discovered:

1) Chassis ground not connected (easy fix, but how?? No need to answer

2) Power Out connector was a pinch style connector, loosely snapped together without any of the securing/clamping screws! Really Airstream?!?! This is a WF-600T

I am looking for suggestions on what connector would work best in this situation (picture attached).
I’d like a plug style connector not a hard wired connection.

I typically use WAGO connectors now-a-days. not a plug style, but easily disconnected.

[BGClassic]

Originally Posted by wwkayaker

Upon pulling my Inverter (which I have never toyed with) to diagnose my lack of 120 on my Inverter Outlets, this is what I discovered:

1) Chassis ground not connected (easy fix, but how?? No need to answer

2) Power Out connector was a pinch style connector, loosely snapped together without any of the securing/clamping screws! Really Airstream?!?! This is a WF-600T

I am looking for suggestions on what connector would work best in this situation (picture attached).
I’d like a plug style connector not a hard wired connection.

I would read the manual for your model. A quick look at Google says one of these variants is to be hard-wired only. Look at the installation section of the manual. I'd use wire nuts, and cover with electrical tape. My Classic's inverter was wired with a section of 14/3 Romex. I now have a Multiplus II. The wire nuts will be more secure with the movement of the trailer. If you really wanted to use connectors, you could use a good quality hospital grade 5-15P connector, like a HBL8115V HUBBELL and its mate.

Chassis ground should be easy. There should be a solid copper, no jacket, wire nearby. Looks like it is at bottom of picture. Probably 10 or 12GA copper. Attach that to the ground screw on the inverter case. Manual will tell you. I personally would NOT use Wago connectors.

[wwkayaker]

Folks, thank you so much for your replies! When I pulled the inverter and pulled the cover off of it, I could see where one of the IC boards had a burn spot about the size of a quarter. With that information I decided to replace the inverter with a small 700 W inverter from Amazon that does not have AC pass-through, which I never used. BG classic, I took your suggestion on using hospital grade plug, which I’m going to plug directly into the inverter, not hardwire to the inverter. It’s only about 7 W of power and infrequently used when Boondocking and need to charge an iPhone or a laptop, plus lights in water pump. I will post a follow up as soon as I install the inverter and get things up and running normally. Again, thanks for all your advice. I truly appreciate it!

[BGClassic]

I guess as long as the replacement meets your needs, go for it. A good quality Hubbell is rated for the current that inverter will see. Always spec for the max load. The only other issue may be the plug and receptacle coming apart during travel. That could be solved by electrical tape around the connectors to hold them together. That original connector was some type of locking design to provide that. Good luck!