Installing a 4-stage converter/charger in your new Airstream

[Doc Foster]

That is what I thought. They called me while I was on the road. By the time I got home and called Best Converter, the Service Dept. was closed. I sent them an email and asked them to call me tomorrow. A bit disappointing as they are one of the major Airstream dealerships in the nation.

[lewster]

While you definitely can use the PD 4655, it is an easier swap with the PD 9260, which is a deck mount unit. You (they) would also need to secure the DC fuse block as well.

Definitely NOT rocket science, but your dealer might not be capable of thinking just a bit outside the box on this one.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[Ed Brownfield]

I own a 2015 Flying Cloud. I am not going to attempt to replace the converter myself. I purchased a new converter from Amazon.com and plan to take it to an Airstream dealer for installation. Can you tell me how long it should take to install the converter? I want to make sure that I am not being overcharged.

[Rocinante]

Originally Posted by Ed Brownfield

I own a 2015 Flying Cloud. I am not going to attempt to replace the converter myself. I purchased a new converter from Amazon.com and plan to take it to an Airstream dealer for installation. Can you tell me how long it should take to install the converter? I want to make sure that I am not being overcharged.

If you can’t trust them to treat you fairly for this work, I suggest you go elsewhere. Have they done this upgrade before? I bet they have. Maybe have them quote you the numbers of hours in advance and decide whether you think that’s reasonable.

[SCOTTinNJ]

Originally Posted by Ed Brownfield

I own a 2015 Flying Cloud. I am not going to attempt to replace the converter myself. I purchased a new converter from Amazon.com and plan to take it to an Airstream dealer for installation. Can you tell me how long it should take to install the converter? I want to make sure that I am not being overcharged.

In my 2014 the electrical hookups would take an experienced technition no more than 30 min, including time to drink his coffee.

Took me maybe 2 hours because I used a cutoff wheel to pull the old converter from the electrical box and I repurposed the box for the new converter so I could use it to mount the 12v fuses where they were originally.

[Msmoto]

As the originator of this thread, I cannot remember the exact time to install, but the fact I had to fabricate some stuff, it definitely took some time. Also, doing anything for the first time...lots of preparation... lots and lots of preparation and thinking through each step carefully. "Measure twice, saw once"

My guess, if a dealer had installed mine, it would have been at least two hours at $140/hr, or $280 + incidentals or over $300. The fabrication issue is where a dealer may get baffled, some are simply not very good at solving problems.

I would certainly go over the entire project, discussing all the necessary changes a service tech was going to make. This reduces the potential for a huge cost, such as one spending huge time in fabrication.

Maybe show them this thread ... the initial post of how I did it.

[paiceman]

Scott I had never attempted a switch out like this. But, did on our 2017 Classic, taking out the stock single stage and replacing with a 1260 HW Boondocker I purchased from Randy at his recommendation of Best Converter.

It took me about 2 hours, being careful and having to build a shelf for the converter to sit on and I fabricated a metal piece for the front to which I could attach the brown metal door that was the door on the original converter.

Did this about four months ago and so far all is good. I would think if somewhere around $200.00 or as Msmoto said up to about $300 would be a fair price.

Good luck

Bud

[Lara Me]

Just wanted to say thanks to MSMoto for a great thread that helped me install my Boondocker 1260. My install took about 2.5 hours mostly because I proceeded slowly to modify the existing chassis to hold the Boondocker, and I stopped al lot to film a video showing the install and chassis modification. Hope this helps the next person:

https://youtu.be/BcShxL1xO7Y

[rmkrum]

It looks great. Very helpful because I’m planning the same changes to my AS.

The only question I have is that now you have the two fuses in the Boondocker buried in the chassis, kind of out of reach if you happen to blow one. I’d consider salvaging the fuse holder off the old convertor, extending wires into the new convertor and mounting the old fuse holder into the original hole to make it possible to replace a fuse if it goes out. When I do mine, I’ll try to get video or pictures if I can solve this one.

Other than that minor consideration, it’s a super helpful video, and I appreciate you taking the time to make and post it! Thank you very much!

[Lara Me]

I had the same thought but didn’t want to crack open the Boondocker. Would love to see your solution to relocate the fuses.

[rmkrum]

I’ll have to crack open the boondocker. AS is in storage and it’s a bit too cold to pull the chassis out, but the boondocker is still in a box. I’ll dig into it first chance I get.

I’m not worried about busting the warranty...

[paiceman]

I simply put the boondocker in with fuses facing front. In nine months, exceptional

[Boogieshoes]

Have been struggling with whether to replace our stock Parallax 5355 with a Boondocker. 2016 Classic; factory solar w/AGMs. Dumb question: is the 5355 a single stage charger? Really difficult to determine from reading on their site. This thread has been going on now for some time; is there a better/newer Boondocker now; is there another replacement I should consider?

Regarding the excellent video, I wondered why it was important to place the Boondocker inside the old chassis. Seems that it might dissipate heat better if simply mounted in the space left by removing the Parallax chassis. Has anyone done that and if so, how did they secure the new Boondocker?

I actually think I can do this install, but want to be very careful and not screw up my otherwise great AS.

[mojoe7009]

Originally Posted by Boogieshoes

Have been struggling with whether to replace our stock Parallax 5355 with a Boondocker. 2016 Classic; factory solar w/AGMs. Dumb question: is the 5355 a single stage charger? Really difficult to determine from reading on their site. This thread has been going on now for some time; is there a better/newer Boondocker now; is there another replacement I should consider?



Regarding the excellent video, I wondered why it was important to place the Boondocker inside the old chassis. Seems that it might dissipate heat better if simply mounted in the space left by removing the Parallax chassis. Has anyone done that and if so, how did they secure the new Boondocker?



I actually think I can do this install, but want to be very careful and not screw up my otherwise great AS.

The 5355 is a single stage. I put mine in the space where the old one came out. I believe most folks do.

[rmkrum]

Putting the replacement in the old chassis makes sure the old fuse block and door still fit right. Ventilation should not be an issue.

[paiceman]

I put mine in and did not use the metal box that held the parallex. I built a plywood platform and mounted the Boondocker on it with fuses facing out toward the hall. Nine months, about 90 nights, when stored always plugged in, working fine. I carry the stock parrallex with us as a backup.

[Lara Me]

I used the old chassis because I didn’t want to craft a platform and make a bracket to hold the fuse board.

A week later noticed my fan in the Boondocker wouldn’t shut off, even when the charging voltage dropped to 13.2v. Called Randy and he immediately shipped a replacement out, thinking I have a defective temp sensor for the fan. Great customer service!

When I reinstall the replacement I might revisit the mounting orientation so I can better access the fuses on the Boondocker.

[68 Overlander]

Originally Posted by Lara Me

I used the old chassis because I didn’t want to craft a platform and make a bracket to hold the fuse board.

A week later noticed my fan in the Boondocker wouldn’t shut off, even when the charging voltage dropped to 13.2v. Called Randy and he immediately shipped a replacement out, thinking I have a defective temp sensor for the fan. Great customer service!

When I reinstall the replacement I might revisit the mounting orientation so I can better access the fuses on the Boondocker.

You did a fantastic install and many have called to ask about it. As for access to the reverse polarity fuses, they will never blow unless you cross the polarity and while that is certainly possible, it's unlikely. Those that have done that are not nearly as far along in DC knowledge as you. Just don't do it!

[Cispook]

Originally Posted by Lara Me

Just wanted to say thanks to MSMoto for a great thread that helped me install my Boondocker 1260. My install took about 2.5 hours mostly because I proceeded slowly to modify the existing chassis to hold the Boondocker, and I stopped al lot to film a video showing the install and chassis modification. Hope this helps the next person:

https://youtu.be/BcShxL1xO7Y

Your video is outstanding. I’m making the same changes and this video serves as my guide. Thanks for sharing.

[Fred L]

Have done a lot of reading here and have a call in to Randy at Bestconverter.
Will be upgrading as my present batteries as showing some age/use and only 65AH. So want to replace the converter now, before new batteries are installed.

So the burning question is PD or Boondocker ? At this point I am going with Lews suggestion of the PD4655. Is there a reason others have gone with the Boondocker other than price ?