I’m upgrading my electrical!

[steilkurve]

Hello all.

I’m upgrading the electrical of my 2022 GT 25FB. Starting a thread to document the process so others can benefit from it (i.e. replicate what I did well and avoid what I didn’t do so well ;-)).

The plan is:

1) Up the solar on the roof to near stock wiring capacity. From 180W, I’m going to 270W.

2) Swap out the Zamp port on the battery box for one that will allow more, unregulated portable panels. This will mean adding an additional solar controller inside.

3) Move the 2 100 AH BattleBorns inside under the bed and add two more.

4) Replace the stock inverter with a Victron MultiPlus II.

5) Clean up and smarten up the connections. That means installing Victron Orion DC to DC, Lynx Distributor, Lynx Shunt, Cerbo GX and Touch 50 devices.

Today, I completed step 1. See photos.

I added two 45 Zamp panels to the roof. Why two 45s?

I’ve got two ACs and along with the vents and my Pepwave antenna, another like the two stock 90 watts wouldn’t have fit unless I extended it beyond the white portion of the roof which I didn’t want to do. And since my rig is fairly new, I didn’t feel like throwing a new set of panels out to put all new larger panels or rewire to allow higher wattage.

The two 45s fit in easily and match the specs of my existing panels.

I used AM Solar VHB tape mounts to attach the panels and avoid drilling new holes into the roof. Cleaned the surface with isopropyl alcohol first and then covered with Sikaflex 221. They feel really locked in place.

For the wires, I used zip ties with sticky mounts that I then also covered with sealant. The stock wires were also secured with sticky mounts but no sealant and had all detached. Sealant is a must do in my opinion.

Happy about the panel choice. Feels like they are all stock, blend in nicely and of course leverage the existing Zamp combiner box on the roof.

Also pleased with the AM Solar VHB mounts. Not worried they’ll come off and I didn’t create a new potential leak source by drilling holes.

As for the wires, they’ll no doubt also stay put but in hindsight, I should have used self-levelling sealant for that. It would have more easily filled the voids than using my fingers to do it. Then again, I’m never happy with my caulking jobs!

Stay tuned for the next phase of the project.

[waninae39]

this is my updated schematic with mostly Victron products and two models of LION
batteries. Total capacity will be 700AH. The 4 batteries will be inside


i have not selected new solar panels yet

[J-Dog]

Have any plans for the existing battery box? I assume it will be storage of some sort.

[waninae39]

lion batteries are 1/4 the weight of lead acid

i moved the batteries inside as they are safe and don't off-gas.

plus it takes weight of the tongue

[vanderwielen]

I'd suggest adding a DC protect device to assure you don't drain the batteries too low accidentally. The biggest issue you will encounter is the voltage sag using only 2 100AH lithium batteries. The multiplus II should have 3, but preferable 4 batteries capable of producing 1C each or 300-400 amps. With only 2, the Multiplus will detect the sag and will shut down when you try to use the microwave or AC.

[steilkurve]

Hey all. OP here. Am progressing on my project. Have started to assemble the components in my garage before moving to the AS.

Attached is a photo of my Victron Lynx setup. I mounted it on a piece of Baltic plywood that I varnished and that I’ll secure on a partition inside the storage under the bed.

Batteries will also rest on similar plywood. A question on that.

Am I better off screwing the plywood support for the batteries into the AS floor (composite in my case) directly or instead securing the plywood to the sides of the storage under the bed with L brackets to avoid drilling holes into the floor.

Thoughts?

[Wazbro]

Here is a thread on screwing into the composite sub-floor.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f36...or-218189.html

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by Wazbro

Here is a thread on screwing into the composite sub-floor.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f36...or-218189.html

Thanks. I read that thread. I also called AS and they advised that wood screws would work with a pilot hole.

My question was more about if I would be better off fastening everything to the bed base. So, for example, instead of screwing the MultiPlus straight into the floor, I screw it on a piece of plywood which would be attached to the bed base with L brackets. That way, no additional screw holes into the floor.

Thoughts on that?

[steilkurve]

Ok. I'm making progress. Here's where I'm at and the associated photos. Any questions, let me know!

REMOVED BATTERIES FROM BATTERY BOX

-I have removed my existing batteries from the battery box outside. I connected the jack to the old 6 gauge wires that brought the power from the batteries to the 12V distribution box inside. I did that using a Blue Sea post terminal glued onto a water tight connection box. Wires come in through grommets I added. I will rivet the connection box to the inside of the battery box a little later on.

-The Zamp solar port and the inverter wires in the battery box are loose right now. Towards the end of the project, I will install a beefier solar port for my portable panels using the 4 gauge inverter wires.

MOVED BATTERIES INSIDE AND INSTALLED DISTRIBUTION GEAR

-As mentioned in an earlier post, I had mounted my Victron Cerbo GX, Lynx Power In, Lynx Shunt and Lynx distributor as well as a the Blue Sea battery switch on baltic plywood, previously varnished to try and match the interior of the drawers. That's now mounted under the bed on the divider between the two main storage sections. Note that premounting and connecting the hardware was really helpful as it allowed me to test everything, including the Multiplus II in the comfort and space of my garage. I'm happy I did as there is a bit more playing around with settings required with the Victron gear than I thought. In fact, I couldn't configure the MultiPlus with their MK3 device meant to hook up to a PC. It wouldn't recognize it. I had to call my dealer who suggested simply doing it online through the VRM portal and that worked.

-I prepared another piece of varnished baltic plywood with aluminum angles to receive the batteries. I screwed it on the floor of the street most storage section under the bed. I was a bit nervous about screwing into the floor, which is the new TransCore composite material by Ridge Corp. As suggested by Jackson Center, I predrilled every hole by 1/4 inch and then screwed in #10 screws (by hand, didn't want to risk ruining my holes). Pilot holes are a must as the top layer of the floor is really hard and I doubt a normal screw would have gone in by itself.

-I installed the 5 batteries on the plywood, secured them with the straps I had screwed in between the wood and the aluminum angles. I then proceeded to interconnect all the batteries and hook them up to a Blue Sea ANL fuse holder, the Blue Sea switch and the Victron Lynx system. Given the position of the last battery and the low clearance due to the mattress base, some connections were more challenging. Here again, measuring, cutting and trying the cables in my garage was a good move. Can't imagine having had to do all that in the tight quarters around the bed base.

Now, I have yet to connect the new battery bank to the AS' electrical system or install the MultiPlus. That's coming up in my next few posts.

[PatSoozy]

Dumb question? How did you plug two panels into your one remaining Zamp plug on your roof. We have the same factory solar, but cheaped out and opted for the AGMs (sad face)

[SVTOTEM]

Can you share a source for that water tight connection box? Thanks.

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by PatSoozy

Dumb question? How did you plug two panels into your one remaining Zamp plug on your roof. We have the same factory solar, but cheaped out and opted for the AGMs (sad face)

Zamp sells a Y cable that allows you to hook two panels to one port.

https://www.zampsolar.com/products/p...-sae-y-adapter

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by SVTOTEM

Can you share a source for that water tight connection box? Thanks.

For sure. Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/Zulkit-Dustpr...59&sr=8-4&th=1

Note that this is just the bare box. Purchased the powerpost and grommets separately.

[steilkurve]

The MultiPlus II is now installed and working. Haven’t had a lot of time to test it but it sure is nice to have all outlets working even when on battery. I’ll report back when I have tested it more.

The MP is screwed directly into the floor with #12 screws as if it were on a wall meaning I used the Victron mounting plate and predetermined holes to screw it in.

Prior to installing it, I drilled a new hole into the floor close to where the factory one is for the (old) cables going to the battery box outside. I noticed the factory used a plastic cable cover to avoid the aluminum edge from cutting the wires. I did the same. I then fished the 4/0 chassis ground wire through the hole and sealed the rest of the opening with AdSeal. The ground is bolted onto the A frame. I disconnected all other chassis ground wires and this is the sole one.

If you plan on installing a MultiPlus, know that the factory 50 amp cables that goes from the outlet outside to the electrical is pretty stiff. Had the toughest time disconnect it and working it into the MultiPlus pressure-type connectors.

Next steps is to to install the Touch 50 and Remote Control for the MultiPlus. Will require fishing wires from the bed to the closer and living room respectively.

[steilkurve]

Ok. I was able to further test the MultiPlus. Specifically, I ran one of my AC units off of the batteries/inverter alone. It ran without a problem with room to spare on wattage. A little over 1300W at its peak… I’m actually surprised as I haven’t installed the MicroAir Soft Start yet. See attached photo for a screen shot of the Touch 50 when I tested it.

I also installed the Touch 50 on the wall between the bed and closet. The HDMI and USB cables that respectively provide data and power are really short. I used HDMI and USB extensions and it’s working fine. Still have to build a little box to hide the cut out and cabling from the Touch 50 inside the closet. See video.

https://youtu.be/2r6yMJXdc5Q

I’ve also installed a new solar port outside. I actually used a Zamp 2-port combiner box. As I explained above, I used the old inverter wires to feed the ports. Inside, they’re hooked up to an additional SmartSolar charger from Victron. I’ll connect my two Zamp 140W portable panels to it. Still have to do some cable management inside the battery box.

Next part of the project is to encase the MultiPlus under the bed for noise control, including building in an AC Infinity fan to provide aire flow.

[waninae39]

Hello @steilkurve
did the multiplus not fit into the area to the right of your batteries?
i want to put mine there as the spouse wants to use the large area under the bed

i made a small display board the fits 2x bmv712 ( as i have two different types of lion) , 1x muliplus control head and 1x model 70 display. it will be mount in the bathroom to the left of the toilet as i can run all the cable behind that area AND the wife does not like to see light when she sleeps, thus i can close the bathroom door

i will make the same board for the 3x lynx modules and the cerbo gx
tnx for posting the pics

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by waninae39

Hello @steilkurve
did the multiplus not fit into the area to the right of your batteries?
i want to put mine there as the spouse wants to use the large area under the bed

In my unit, unfortunately no. The unit is bigger than that cubby. In addition, Victron stipulates that it needs about 4 inches all around the unit for ventilation.

[vanderwielen]

Originally Posted by steilkurve

Ok. I was able to further test the MultiPlus. Specifically, I ran one of my AC units off of the batteries/inverter alone. It ran without a problem with room to spare on wattage. A little over 1300W at its peak… I’m actually surprised as I haven’t installed the MicroAir Soft Start yet. See attached photo for a screen shot of the Touch 50 when I tested it.

I also installed the Touch 50 on the wall between the bed and closet. The HDMI and USB cables that respectively provide data and power are really short. I used HDMI and USB extensions and it’s working fine. Still have to build a little box to hide the cut out and cabling from the Touch 50 inside the closet. See video.

https://youtu.be/2r6yMJXdc5Q

I’ve also installed a new solar port outside. I actually used a Zamp 2-port combiner box. As I explained above, I used the old inverter wires to feed the ports. Inside, they’re hooked up to an additional SmartSolar charger from Victron. I’ll connect my two Zamp 140W portable panels to it. Still have to do some cable management inside the battery box.

Next part of the project is to encase the MultiPlus under the bed for noise control, including building in an AC Infinity fan to provide aire flow.

With the Victron 3000 MP, a soft start isn't necessary. The MP can easily handle the in rush load since it's spec'd for up to 6000 watts for a brief moment. 'Assisting' will also cover you if you have the microwave on and the AC compressor kicks in.

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by vanderwielen

With the Victron 3000 MP, a soft start isn't necessary. The MP can easily handle the in rush load since it's spec'd for up to 6000 watts for a brief moment. 'Assisting' will also cover you if you have the microwave on and the AC compressor kicks in.

Good to know. Watched and read many installs where they put in the MP and soft start devices. Thought I would need them.

The MP could indeed handle much higher but I'm surprised one AC only goes up to 1300W. Thought it would go higher.

[waninae39]

i made some plywood to hold my Victron products

the power breakers we on top of the batteries
the 4 Lion batteries ( 3x 200Ah and 1x100AH)
the lynx panel will be under the bed where the two plastic boxes are

the Mutilplus will fit into the smaller area under the bed

i have not find where i will install the shut switches