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Old 08-09-2017, 09:48 PM   #1
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Have I screwed up my converter?

So in trying to save a couple hundred dollars on purchasing 300 feet of extension cord, I used a friends spider box (kind of like an industrial power bar) that he uses on occasion to do construction work. Seemed like a great idea.
That was until I plugged into the 30A plug to start charging my AS. The A/C started working, then cut out after a few seconds. In the process of trying to work out the situation, I realized that the spider box plug I used was 220 instead of 110.
We changed the plug to a single phase, thereby knocking it down to 110, but it still wasn't working right. My converter kept running when it was plugged in.
That was yesterday.
Today, I think that the whole converter isn't working.
How can I check to see what has happened?
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Old 08-10-2017, 01:46 AM   #2
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Sorry to hear that. I think I've read in these forums that 220 can damage a lot in your trailer - you may want to test all your electronics. As for the converter itself, I'm no electrician but there's a YouTube video that might answer your question here:

https://youtu.be/IoF3iAnjSmY

Good luck!
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Old 08-10-2017, 03:58 AM   #3
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Does your air con work now? You may have cooked a lot of the system. As has been said, check all electrical items out.
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:01 AM   #4
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I just installed a new converter in mine one test you might do is disconnect the + battery lead and with a voltmeter check from - to + and it should read more than 12 volts like 13.6 or a little higher . Usually 220 volts kills the converter and microwave
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:07 AM   #5
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With 220, you may have destroyed the:
120v part of the fridge, if it was on.
air conditioner
television(s)
converter
120v part of the water heater
microwave
blue ray player
anything else plugged in to an outlet.
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:10 AM   #6
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Actually seen this happen first hand individual plugged into the same 220 outlet in a spyder thinking it was 110 30A Not toasted all electronics in the unit, my suggestion time to upgrade your converter as yours is most likely toast, the A/C needs to be throughly checked might have toasted the capacitors and board,microwave tv's any electronics plugged in
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Old 08-10-2017, 01:13 PM   #7
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Would the converter protect the rest of the electronics from the surge? I thought it would kick off just as it did? If anything it is time to upgrade to a stage 4 converter and then see what works.
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Old 08-10-2017, 01:27 PM   #8
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This post is like hooking city water to the black tank flush with the valve closed.....
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Old 08-10-2017, 01:30 PM   #9
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Sorry to hear of your oops! 1st check the (2) 30A green fuses on the front of the converter itself, if they are blown try replacing them, if they blow out immediately the converter is blown.
You can get the upgraded parallax converter that AS currently uses on Amazon now, although everybody else will tell you to get another one like a boondocks or whatever.
Not much else will be affected as I have this issue quite often during large commercial lug power events, don't feel too bad, there is a lot of us that have done this!
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Old 08-10-2017, 01:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turk123 View Post
Would the converter protect the rest of the electronics from the surge? I thought it would kick off just as it did? If anything it is time to upgrade to a stage 4 converter and then see what works.
Hi

No the converter would not have protected any of the "supposed to be 120V" stuff from the over voltage. A surge is at most a second or two. Over voltage is a situation that lasts longer than that.

Even if the converter is ok right now, it probably will not be at some point in the near future. Just replace it with a good one. Get a temperature probe for the battery while you are at it.

Some (but not all) electronic gear actually is ok with 220V. You would have to look at the labels to work out which gear that is. Electrical gear (compressors, motors, heaters) is often not as forgiving of significant duration exposure. How long is significant? That depends on a lot of things, some of which not at all easy to find out (saw the motor in half and look at the following details ....).

Bob
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Old 08-10-2017, 06:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalidas View Post
So in trying to save a couple hundred dollars on purchasing 300 feet of extension cord, I used a friends spider box (kind of like an industrial power bar) that he uses on occasion to do construction work. Seemed like a great idea.
That was until I plugged into the 30A plug to start charging my AS. The A/C started working, then cut out after a few seconds. In the process of trying to work out the situation, I realized that the spider box plug I used was 220 instead of 110.
We changed the plug to a single phase, thereby knocking it down to 110, but it still wasn't working right. My converter kept running when it was plugged in.
That was yesterday.
Today, I think that the whole converter isn't working.
How can I check to see what has happened?
How did you get it to connect a 220V plug has a configuration of one verticle and one horizontal female in the plug and connector, also how did you plug the cord into 220V as it has the same on that end as well, as well does your converter have an under voltage circuit or have you checked the voltage at the connection, 300 ft of cable has a huge voltage drop, I would suspect that you are only getting 90 to 100 volts at that distance
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:02 PM   #12
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Update on the converter

Hello Everyone,
Wanted to say thank you to everyone for your help.
Updating the situation.
I replaced the converter with a Parallax RU55. Had quite a time getting the old one out. The little hex screws must have been torqued in by a gorilla. Striped one so bad I needed vice grips to get it out.
Seems to be working perfectly. Though the front plate doesn't line up quite perfectly. Will be getting back in touch with Parallax.
Anyway, the new issue is that I am pretty sure that I blew out the refrigerator control board. Luckily, that is the only thing that seems to not be working.
I am trying to find a replacement, but am unable to find the anyone offering the actual control board with the same number. Does it have to be the exact match?
Anyone have the same problem?
Thanks
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