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08-15-2024, 09:42 AM
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#1
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Bindi’s boss
2022 25' Globetrotter
Katy
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 45
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Ford F150 Powerboost battery charging
We have a 2022 F150 power boost and a 2022 globetrotter 25FBT. We have 180 W solar on the roof and 180 solar portable along with 2 Battleborn GC 2 batteries. We have been able to go eight days…limited by our fresh water tank. While Boondocking in Colorado, our solar kept us going electrically for seven days before I had to connect to the truck. The Victron MPPT told us that the batteries would typically go up to 13.2 V + during the day and then overnight get down to 12.7 or less. The morning that the battery shut off it got down to 10.0 V. I am interested in the rate of charging back up to 13.3 + for 2 cases. Case 1: How long does it take to charge back up to 13.3 from 12.7 while driving(rate) connected via the 7 pin connector? Case 2: How long does it take to charge back up to 13.3 from 12.7 when at the campsite connected to the truck in generator mode(rate)? I have never been accused of knowing how electrical systems work.
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08-15-2024, 11:38 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master 
2017 28' Flying Cloud
2014 25' FB Flying Cloud
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Georgetown (winter)Thayne (summer)
, Texas & Wyoming
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,437
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following...seems like there may be some information missing here? Why did it go down so low after 7 days? Not sure the 7pin connector, from what I understand, will not fully charge your LI batteries without some help? Look forward to some expert advice/answers here...my Li's arrive this weekend.
__________________
Empty Nesters; Gypsies on the road! 2017 28' Twin Flying Cloud
2017 F250 King Ranch, 4X4, 6.7L, Blue-Ox WDH
Summer-Star Valley Ranch RV Resort (Thayne, WY); Winter-Sun City (Georgetown,TX)
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08-15-2024, 12:40 PM
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#3
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 16,726
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Hi
Ok, let's start with using the MPPT (rather than a shunt) to look at battery voltage.
When you have full sun in the middle of the day, your solar is putting out current. That creates a drop in the wires that go from the controller to the battery. What the MPPT shows in this case will *always* be higher than the actual battery voltage. How much higher is a "that depends" sort of thing. It could easily be a couple tenths of a volt.
When it's dark out, your MPPT has no current flowing out of it. The wires don't have the same drop the did during the day. It probably reads closer to the real battery voltage "at night".
You also have various loads in the trailer. The fridge pulls power from time to time. Things like the lights and inverter also pull power. Those bump the voltage around a bit.
Looking at any battery voltage and trying to work out how "full" it is .... not so much. On a lithium, it should get to > 14.2 V when charging is done. 13.0 V is (very) roughly "half full". < 12.8 V is in the "below 20%" range. At 12V you pass the 10% point.
If your numbers are off by a tenth of a volt (let alone two or three tenths) you will have a tough time knowing how much you have left in the battery. This isn't just an issue with lithium's. Lead acid batteries have very similar problems, the drivers there are more temperature related.
Your truck alternator runs somewhere between 12.9V and 15V depending on this and that. Just where yours usually is depends on a bunch of things. Let's guess it's at <13.6 V and move on.
If your trailer battery is at 13.6V and your truck alternator drops to 12.6V, the trailer battery will supply power to the truck. Yes some trucks will shut things down in this case (and probably not hook back up). In other cases the trailer battery will happily run the various loads in the truck.
How much current is that? You have a lot of resistance in the cables from the front of the truck to the inside of the trailer. A one volt difference might get you a few amps. Let's call it 5A from the trailer to the truck.
Flip things around. Your battery is at 13V and the alternator is at 13.6V. You might be getting 2.5A of charge into the trailer.
So: how long to charge the trailer driving down the road? Maybe forever. Maybe > 50 hours.
The charging process on shore power (generator or from a utility) is limited by the converter / charger in your trailer. Best guess, it puts out 30A running full bore. You have 200AH of battery. You can get it fully charged in a bit over 7 hours.
Why a bit *over* 7 hours? You will charge at max for most of the cycle. The last (maybe) hour will be at a lower rate. The battery is doing equalization when you get up above 14.4V. It needs to get there on a regular basis to do this.
So what to do?
1) Either disconnect the charge wire that goes from the 7 pin to the battery or install a DC/DC converter.
2) Get a Smart Shunt if you will be doing multi day off grid stuff and depending on the batteries.
Fun !!!
Notes:
The charge current guesses are based on what I've measured on F250 and F350 trucks. They are just a guess on anything else.
The battery here on the bench next to me has been at < 13.2V since roughly the 70% "full" point. It's now at about 44% full and is only at 12.98V. We'll see how it works out when the discharge test is over. (= does it really have the labeled capacity or not ? )
Bob
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08-15-2024, 08:10 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member 

2023 23' International
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 342
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F150 Powerboost
We have a 23 foot trailer with a 30 amp service requirement and regularly plug into our 7.2 KW F150 PowerBoost truck. While I have not timed how long it takes to charge our batteries, it should be the same amount of time that it takes to charge the batteries when connected to shore power.
The other factors that would affect the charging rate would be the service requirement 30 amp or 50 amp (2 AC units?) and the Powerboost size. In all likelihood, plugging into your your truck while in generator mode will likely be the fasted way to charge your batteries.
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08-15-2024, 09:00 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master 
Flagstaff
, Arizona
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilljeman
I have never been accused of knowing how electrical systems work.
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Assuming you have a PowerBoost with 7.2 kw ProPower Onboard you only need another $250 for a transfer switch an a 30 amp power cable running to the hitch. Then you can power the trailer sitting at a campsite or moving down the road.
When we boon-dock the PowerBoost is always connected to the trailer and we leave the PowerBoost on until curfew. Depending on demand the PowerBoost will wake up every 30 to 45 minutes and quietly idle at 800 RPM for 5 to 10 minutes toping off all the batteries. It that mode the trailer is actually being powered by the PowerBoost lithium batteries and the house batteries are always at 100% at generator curfew time.
__________________
2022 25' GlobeTrotter FB <->2023 Ford F-150 PowerBoost 7.2kW ProPower
Electric Globetrotter
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08-16-2024, 09:23 AM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member 
2023 23' Flying Cloud
Carroll
, Iowa
Join Date: Apr 2024
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldenchase
Assuming you have a PowerBoost with 7.2 kw ProPower Onboard you only need another $250 for a transfer switch an a 30 amp power cable running to the hitch. Then you can power the trailer sitting at a campsite or moving down the road.
When we boon-dock the PowerBoost is always connected to the trailer and we leave the PowerBoost on until curfew. Depending on demand the PowerBoost will wake up every 30 to 45 minutes and quietly idle at 800 RPM for 5 to 10 minutes toping off all the batteries. It that mode the trailer is actually being powered by the PowerBoost lithium batteries and the house batteries are always at 100% at generator curfew time.
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I also have not been characterized as being electrically savvy... My setup (23' AS with 200a BattleBorn lithium + 2024 F150 PowerBoost 7.2) is quite new to me and I'm still learning all of my systems. Can you elaborate on the transfer switch you mention? I have not yet tried running my trailer off the truck's inverter but I have acquired what I believe is the necessary plug adapter do to so ( https://a.co/d/4bGBhfE)
In my limited understanding, I would "simply" plug the trailer's power cord into the truck's 30a outlet via this adapter. Sorry again for the ignorance, but is it more complicated than this? The reference to a transfer switch has me wondering if I'm missing something; or is this something that's involved when you want to have the trailer plugged into the ProPower outlet while traveling?
Thanks in advance for any insights, I'm looking forward to being able to run the trailer off the truck in boondocking or other unexpected circumstances, and I'm trying to figure out exactly what I need and need to know in advance to do so. Newbie enlightenment much appreciated!
__________________
2023 Flying Cloud 23FBT ~ 2024 Ford F150 XLT PowerBoost 7.2 kw ~ 2010 Border Terrier
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08-16-2024, 09:30 AM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member 

2023 23' International
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelsonh
I also have not been characterized as being electrically savvy... My setup (23' AS with 200a BattleBorn lithium + 2024 F150 PowerBoost 7.2) is quite new to me and I'm still learning all of my systems. Can you elaborate on the transfer switch you mention? I have not yet tried running my trailer off the truck's inverter but I have acquired what I believe is the necessary plug adapter do to so ( https://a.co/d/4bGBhfE)
In my limited understanding, I would "simply" plug the trailer's power cord into the truck's 30a outlet via this adapter. Sorry again for the ignorance, but is it more complicated than this? The reference to a transfer switch has me wondering if I'm missing something; or is this something that's involved when you want to have the trailer plugged into the ProPower outlet while traveling?
Thanks in advance for any insights, I'm looking forward to being able to run the trailer off the truck in boondocking or other unexpected circumstances, and I'm trying to figure out exactly what I need and need to know in advance to do so. Newbie enlightenment much appreciated!
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We have an older but similar setup and plug into the truck with the adapter all the time. We do not have a transfer switch. We do not charge from the truck generator while travelling.
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08-16-2024, 09:37 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master 
Flagstaff
, Arizona
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelsonh
Thanks in advance for any insights, I'm looking forward to being able to run the trailer off the truck in boondocking or other unexpected circumstances, and I'm trying to figure out exactly what I need and need to know in advance to do so. Newbie enlightenment much appreciated!
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I detailed all of my modifications in this thread. There are several posts and images of the transfer switch installation and the 30 amp weather proof plug on the hitch.
If you have a PowerBoost with 7.2kw ProPower Onboard option the simple installation of a transfer switch and 30 amp connection to hitch changes your whole Airstream experience. You no longer need 400 amp hours of lithium batteries, 200 will do. But more importantly the PowerBoost can top those batteries quickly should the need arise.
Take a look at the Electric Globetrotter thread. If you have any questions let me know.
__________________
2022 25' GlobeTrotter FB <->2023 Ford F-150 PowerBoost 7.2kW ProPower
Electric Globetrotter
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08-16-2024, 11:59 AM
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#9
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 16,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air2Dream
We have a 23 foot trailer with a 30 amp service requirement and regularly plug into our 7.2 KW F150 PowerBoost truck. While I have not timed how long it takes to charge our batteries, it should be the same amount of time that it takes to charge the batteries when connected to shore power.
The other factors that would affect the charging rate would be the service requirement 30 amp or 50 amp (2 AC units?) and the Powerboost size. In all likelihood, plugging into your your truck while in generator mode will likely be the fasted way to charge your batteries.
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Hi
The converter / charger is a 120V device. It does not matter if you are hooked to a 30A (=120V) post or to a 50A (=240V) post. It charges at the same rate either way.
Bob
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08-19-2024, 10:16 AM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member 
2023 23' Flying Cloud
Carroll
, Iowa
Join Date: Apr 2024
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldenchase
I detailed all of my modifications in this thread. There are several posts and images of the transfer switch installation and the 30 amp weather proof plug on the hitch.
If you have a PowerBoost with 7.2kw ProPower Onboard option the simple installation of a transfer switch and 30 amp connection to hitch changes your whole Airstream experience. You no longer need 400 amp hours of lithium batteries, 200 will do. But more importantly the PowerBoost can top those batteries quickly should the need arise.
Take a look at the Electric Globetrotter thread. If you have any questions let me know.
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I've read your entire project thread from start to finish, what a project and a great read, thanks for sharing it with such detail!
Baby steps for me.... I finally took the time to plug my trailer into my truck over the weekend just as a very first step to see if/how it works, and was pleased to say it worked with zero issues. Running the AC and all interior lights was effortless for the truck.
What I observed over about a half hour of monitoring it was that the truck would start and run for 4 minutes, then it would be off for 8 minutes, then repeat. I have no frame of reference or previous experience to know if this is typical operation with this sort of load. Also I realized at the end that I also had the truck AC still turned on so that was a factor I'm sure. In then end, at least I know that the 7.2 ProPower works exactly like I will need it to when the time comes.
Thanks again for all of your insights on the topic, a great education for this newbie.
__________________
2023 Flying Cloud 23FBT ~ 2024 Ford F150 XLT PowerBoost 7.2 kw ~ 2010 Border Terrier
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08-19-2024, 10:39 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master 
Flagstaff
, Arizona
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelsonh
Baby steps for me.... I finally took the time to plug my trailer into my truck over the weekend just as a very first step to see if/how it works, and was pleased to say it worked with zero issues. Running the AC and all interior lights was effortless for the truck.
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Good first step. Important to remember, when your trailer is plugged into your PowerBoost the entire truck/trailer system is running off the Powerboost 1.5 kWh lithium-ion battery. The battery in your trailer is idle (if fully charged) and the traction motor in the PowerBoost is in standby with the motor off.
So as both truck and trailer put demands on the PowerBoost 1.5 kWh lithium-ion battery and it will draw down. Once that battery hits 37% State of Charge (SOC) the PowerBoost engine will start then the traction motor starts to top off the 1.5 kWh lithium-ion battery in the truck. That cycle normally takes about 5 to 10 minutes depending on truck/trailer loads as the 1.5 kWh lithium-ion battery truck battery is brought up to 65% SOC. So the combination of truck and trailer loads determines how often the PowerBoost will start up the engine to replenish the 1.5 kWh lithium-ion battery.
The air conditioner system in the PowerBoost is a high voltage (270v) based electric heat pump compressor, not the same that you typically find in non hybrid trucks. So that compressor uses a lot of amps. The PowerBoost air conditioning should be off when you are parked and supporting the electrical needs of the trailer. That will dramatically extent the cycle time when the PowerBoost wakes up, starts the engine then uses the traction motor to top off the 1.5 kWh lithium-ion battery truck battery.
A lot to learn but once you understand the system you will quickly see why this set up is the future to support RV trailers. You always have a 30 amp two leg 120 volt "power pedestal" sitting at the end of the hitch whether you are camping or moving down the road at 65 mph.
__________________
2022 25' GlobeTrotter FB <->2023 Ford F-150 PowerBoost 7.2kW ProPower
Electric Globetrotter
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08-19-2024, 01:35 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master 
1994 30' Excella
Mississauga
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,290
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On the powerboost also turn your headlight switch to off. In mine default seems to be “auto”. Just make sure everything electrical in the truck is off to reduce charging load.
__________________
Al and Jean
BRN 3845
TAC ON-3
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08-19-2024, 01:46 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master 
Flagstaff
, Arizona
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 796
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And make sure the PowerBoost idle limit toggle is in the "Off" position if you want continuous support from PPOB other wise the truck will shut down after 30 minutes of idling.
__________________
2022 25' GlobeTrotter FB <->2023 Ford F-150 PowerBoost 7.2kW ProPower
Electric Globetrotter
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08-20-2024, 09:34 AM
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#14
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Bindi’s boss
2022 25' Globetrotter
Katy
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 45
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This thread has been a great learning experience for me. Thank you especially Uncle Bob and goldenchase. Based on my learning, I have decided not to go the transfer switch route. I just need one point of clarity for the case I am towing the trailer. In that case, the only concern is the refrigerator needs 12V power. I assume that my roof solar will continue to charge my batteries while I am traveling…depending on available sunlight. Power through the 7 pin is enough to supply the refrigerator if sun doesn’t cooperate. The powerboost battery takes care of itself while I am driving.
Am I correct? Any other concerns?
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08-20-2024, 01:49 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master 
Flagstaff
, Arizona
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilljeman
This thread has been a great learning experience for me. Thank you especially Uncle Bob and goldenchase. Based on my learning, I have decided not to go the transfer switch route. I just need one point of clarity for the case I am towing the trailer. In that case, the only concern is the refrigerator needs 12V power. I assume that my roof solar will continue to charge my batteries while I am traveling…depending on available sunlight. Power through the 7 pin is enough to supply the refrigerator if sun doesn’t cooperate. The powerboost battery takes care of itself while I am driving.
Am I correct? Any other concerns?
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The scenario you detailed gets complicated because you have lithium batteries. The 12 volt lead on the 7 pin is unregulated. This means battery charging when the 12 volt 7 pin lead is active will not be programmed or regulated. If your solar controller is set up properly to charge a lithium battery then that would be the only source you should use for 12 volt power when hooked up with the PowerBoost. Some people have used DC to DC converters with variable success on the PowerBoost to power the DC needs of the trailer. The variable success relates to the source of 12 volt power in the PowerBoost which is not the 12 volt battery. 12 volt power on the PowerBoost is sourced via the DC/DC converter from the 270 volt lithium battery.
All the complication goes away if the trailer is hooked up to the PowerBoost via a transfer switch from the PPOB 30 amp plug. With this configuration 2 legs of 120 volt power flows to the converter (standard or the preferred Victron) in the trailer. The converter then supplies the trailer with DC power properly regulated to charge a lithium battery and you get 120 volts all through trailer as well to power things like the air conditioner.
Bottom line, if you have a PowerBoost with a 7.2 kW PPOB generator you have an abundant supply of electricity via the traction motor and PowerBoost lithium battery. Because of all the automation and buffering offered by the PowerBoost lithium battery it turns out the F-150 PPOB generator is one of the most efficient generators you can use.
The 7 pin 12 volt lead on the trailer hitch and the DC supplied by solar panels feeds the trailer through the equivalency of a narrow straw. Meanwhile sitting at the end of your trailer hitch is a powerful generator capable of feeding the trailer with a "fire hose" of electricity. The only thing missing is that fire hose (30 amp wire and a transfer box).
Good luck on your continuing education.
__________________
2022 25' GlobeTrotter FB <->2023 Ford F-150 PowerBoost 7.2kW ProPower
Electric Globetrotter
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08-21-2024, 07:47 AM
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#16
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 16,726
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Hi
If you are going to power the trailer with 120V while in motion, the converter will be pumping away at full blast. It's putting out way more 12V than is needed and it's putting it into lithium batteries. They will get up to > 14V.
Your 7 pin is not very smart. It will feed current in either direction. If you have > 14V in the trailer and < 13V at the alternator, the trailer will be trying to power the truck. That's not a good thing. Most trucks will shut down in this case. Depending on them to do that .... probably not a great idea. Best to unhook that 7 pin charge wire. (or put in a DC/DC converter)
If you have lithiums, unhooking that wire or putting in the DC/DC is also a recommended part of the install. The truck alternator will not do much good trying to charge lithiums.
Bob
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08-21-2024, 08:23 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master 
Flagstaff
, Arizona
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob
Hi
If you have lithiums, unhooking that wire or putting in the DC/DC is also a recommended part of the install. The truck alternator will not do much good trying to charge lithiums.
Bob
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You have it right but for the Ford PowerBoost (and the Lightning) the 12 volts being fed to pin 7 on the trailer connection is not fed by the alternator (there is no alternator) or the onboard 12 volt start battery. The 12 volts come from the DC/DC converter which in turn is fed by Powerboost lithium battery then the traction motor. In the end all electrical power on the PowerBoost comes from the traction motor.
Why is this important. The DC/DC converter in the PowerBoost manages the 12 volt power differently than a standard voltage regulator in an alternator based vehicle. This can give the trailer DC/DC converters fits. It is a different world with hybrid trucks. It is important to understand the subtle differences.
__________________
2022 25' GlobeTrotter FB <->2023 Ford F-150 PowerBoost 7.2kW ProPower
Electric Globetrotter
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08-21-2024, 12:24 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master 
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldenchase
The air conditioner system in the PowerBoost is a high voltage (270v) based electric heat pump compressor, not the same that you typically find in non hybrid trucks. So that compressor uses a lot of amps.
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I believe this is wrong or a typo. At 270v I would be shocked if the electric heat pump compressor used over 10 amps, actually my guess is less then 5 amps. Note 5 amps at 270 volts is 1350 watts, about as much as a 13,500 BTU RV A/C unit. Now if you meant a lot of watts, that could be true.
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08-21-2024, 12:58 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master 
Flagstaff
, Arizona
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazbro
I believe this is wrong or a typo. At 270v I would be shocked if the electric heat pump compressor used over 10 amps, actually my guess is less then 5 amps. Note 5 amps at 270 volts is 1350 watts, about as much as a 13,500 BTU RV A/C unit. Now if you meant a lot of watts, that could be true.
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The electric heat pump compressor on the PowerBoost in my experience operates between 1,000 and 7,000 RPM. As you can see in this screen shot from my OBDLink app from my truck at the bottom of this image at half speed it is drawing 5.8 amps @ 263 volts. You can also see all the electrical parameters for both electrical systems (12v and 270v) in the PowerBoost.
__________________
2022 25' GlobeTrotter FB <->2023 Ford F-150 PowerBoost 7.2kW ProPower
Electric Globetrotter
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08-22-2024, 07:54 AM
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#20
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 16,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldenchase
You have it right but for the Ford PowerBoost (and the Lightning) the 12 volts being fed to pin 7 on the trailer connection is not fed by the alternator (there is no alternator) or the onboard 12 volt start battery. The 12 volts come from the DC/DC converter which in turn is fed by Powerboost lithium battery then the traction motor. In the end all electrical power on the PowerBoost comes from the traction motor.
Why is this important. The DC/DC converter in the PowerBoost manages the 12 volt power differently than a standard voltage regulator in an alternator based vehicle. This can give the trailer DC/DC converters fits. It is a different world with hybrid trucks. It is important to understand the subtle differences.
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Hi
Ok, but does the truck have 12V loads? How are the headlights powered? How about the other odd things in the truck. Do they *all* run on the lithium or are they attached to the output of that same 12V DC/DC converter?
Bob
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