Thanks for the use data/perspective Bob. We are a family of backpackers so I am unsure how much energy we are likely to use. While I know that we “could” use very little, I have two teenage daughters that like their phones and other amenities so we’ll see how it goes. I’ve built the trailer with as many energy saving appliances as possible (e.g. LED lights, non-forced air furnace, etc) Despite that, I estimated that for the four of us, we may use up to 1000W beyond what the DC refrigerator uses (hopefully this is an overestimate). Given 4 to 5 people may be camping in the trailer, I purchased a larger refrigerator (Isotherm Cruise 200, 5+2 ft2) which is reported to use 7A when the compressor is running but 3.5A on average (so ~1000W per day). I plan to add Isotherm’s smart energy control module to the fridge which reportedly reduces the energy demands by up to half (I’ll be happy if I drop it by 25% down to 750W/day).
Regarding the solar charge controller being limited to 35A, I’m pretty limited on the roof space on this old (narrow body) Tradewind. As a result I opted to buy a smaller and less expensive controller. The maximum amount of solar I could likely squeeze on the roof is 450-500 Watts. If I find this unable to keep up with our energy needs, I plan to add some additional solar panels on my truck cap roof. I’m curious if you can use two solar charge controllers (one in the airstream and one in the truck) and back feed both to the positive buss bar? I suspect this may be a problem (due to competing charge profiles) but I don’t know for sure. I might end up needing a larger solar charge controller after all…
57Vintage - thanks for the feedback on the 12VDC circuits. I had approached it differently by placing similar items on each circuit (for example lights on the yellow circuit, etc). Good suggestion to consider redundancy. Given I’ve already ran/connected the circuits I’ll need to stick with the plan. You mention concern about phantom loads… I’ll be curious if items that have inline switches (like by Dickenson stove) drawl current while not turned on. This is definitely likely on complex electronics (like my inverter/charger) but I don’t know about simple computer fans (0.17A), etc like the Dickenson has…
I spent some more time last evening fleshing out the wiring diagram. This generated three specific questions (see the yellow sticky notes on the updated diagram posted below):
1. I’ve read that having multiple points on the chassis for grounding is a problem. Does this issue apply if you use a separate AC ground from the DC ground? What’s this issue anyway?
2. On the AC outputs of the inverter, AC output 1 can hybridize my 30A of shore power plus 25 additional amps from the battery totaling to a potential of 55 amps out. As a result, I’m assuming I need to install an AC breaker near the inverter AC output since the 6/2 wire will travel ~22’ to reach an AC sub panel? (i.e. it’s not appropriate to simply add the breaker in the sub panel at the end of the run…?) The same goes for AC2 out? (which is only energized when connected to shore/gen power and limited to a non-hybridized 30A). I plan to use a 70A breaker for AC1 (6AWG wire) and a 30A breaker for AC2 (10AWG wire). Sound good?
3. I’ve been scratching my head on how to energize sub-panel 2, when option 2 on the manual transfer switch is selected (which bypasses the inverter all together). Any suggestions?
Linear Mode
