circuit board wire diagram 1971/1972 control panel ?

[72TINCAN]

Im looking for a good diagram that shows the COLORS going into circuit board. And where they come from. The manual show them coming from a connector (which i do not have) and its black and white and no mention of colors. I traced all the wires I know what ones go to the probes ... and of course I can get the control light to work a new digital volt meter, and water pump. ...

But when I connect the wires in the fashion that I think I removed them the led lights just come on ? and stay on ... no switch needed ... Voltage is getting to them with out any switches ? bad transistor ?

Also how many 12V + inputs should be going in to the board ?
Is the white wire the Ground "-" ?

I have things that show (2) 12+ inputs into board ... that does not make sense

Anyone have really good photos of the board showing correct good wiring ?
I think mine was messed up when i took my photos before reconstruction .
hence why all the bulbs were burnt out and no connector.

Thank you.

[lojoma]

I have a 73, which based on looks alone seems to have the same switch arrangement as the 71/72. I don't have the manual with me, but I think I can answer a couple of general questions for you. The colors may not be correct but I doubt they changed it (?). The following is how I understand it.

Mine has two +12v connections. One is a grey wire that doesn't go directly to the board. The other is a red wire that comes from the wiring harness. The grey one (with a working Univolt system) supplied power to the panel when connected to shore power. The grey wire connects to a white end of one of the bulb fixtures and lights up when on shore power to confirm you are using shore power. The current goes through that bulb and then to another switch (the ammeter maybe?) and then on to supply the circuit board via a purple wire that connects near the fuse. If you are on battery power, the red wire supplies power directly to the circuit board, also near the fuse.

If you have one of the fresh water or black water lights come on when its switch isn't pressed, I think you have a bad transistor and/or resistor. I had both. They were fairly easy to replace if you know how to solder. If you have other lights that come on, not sure what that means. Orange wires are for the water pump. I don't recall other colors off the top of my head.

The white wire is the ground.

I'll see if I can find the diagram at home.

[lojoma]

Here's the diagram. I added the color. The bottom right (sorry not very legible) drawing of mine shows the colors of wires on the other side of the connector.

Again this is for '73 but my guess is it's very similar.

[72TINCAN]

Thank you ... that will come in handy ... I actually ended up rebuilding a new panel from scratch. I ordered new tank sensors from Amazon and actually talked to the company first they were incredibly helpful. Then rebuild all lights, put in phone charger, dc meter, and old style battery clock and weather gage. the tank sensor has panel for 3 tanks, and a prior owner installed a GREY tank so this is a bonus. as we know prior to 1975 no grey tanks.

[72TINCAN]

this is the final product just need to label and ad logo

[lojoma]

Originally Posted by lojoma

Mine has two +12v connections. One is a grey wire that doesn't go directly to the board. The other is a red wire that comes from the wiring harness. The grey one (with a working Univolt system) supplied power to the panel when connected to shore power. The grey wire connects to a white end of one of the bulb fixtures and lights up when on shore power to confirm you are using shore power. The current goes through that bulb and then to another switch (the ammeter maybe?) and then on to supply the circuit board via a purple wire that connects near the fuse. If you are on battery power, the red wire supplies power directly to the circuit board, also near the fuse.
.

I know this is now a finished issue, but in case others happen along and read this, I was incorrect about the grey and red wires. I found an old post (by Airstream Andy) that explains their function better.

The "power on" bulb doesn't have a ground at all. It basically comes down to it has +12 DC volts coming into BOTH wires of its socket. When on battery power, both red and grey wires have +12 DC volts going into the bulb. Since there is no voltage difference, the Power On light doesn't glow. When on shore power, the old Univolt would send AC (12 volts, I suppose) to the grey wire. Since the voltage isn't constantly the same on both sides of the bulb, it lights.

I thought this was interesting and pretty clever.

[crazy.philip]

Hey Lojoma...
I'm hoping to revive my Airstream control center and this thread! I have bulbs stuck on whe the switch isn't pressed on my water and black water tank as you mentioned, but I'm having trouble identifying the resistors for replacement. There is a color in one of them (peach? ) that doesn't correspond with any resistor chart I've found. Do you know what strength of resistors you got when you replaced them?
I'll try to get a good picture of mine and post it.

Thanks

Originally Posted by lojoma

I have a 73, which based on looks alone seems to have the same switch arrangement as the 71/72. I don't have the manual with me, but I think I can answer a couple of general questions for you. The colors may not be correct but I doubt they changed it (?). The following is how I understand it.

Mine has two +12v connections. One is a grey wire that doesn't go directly to the board. The other is a red wire that comes from the wiring harness. The grey one (with a working Univolt system) supplied power to the panel when connected to shore power. The grey wire connects to a white end of one of the bulb fixtures and lights up when on shore power to confirm you are using shore power. The current goes through that bulb and then to another switch (the ammeter maybe?) and then on to supply the circuit board via a purple wire that connects near the fuse. If you are on battery power, the red wire supplies power directly to the circuit board, also near the fuse.

If you have one of the fresh water or black water lights come on when its switch isn't pressed, I think you have a bad transistor and/or resistor. I had both. They were fairly easy to replace if you know how to solder. If you have other lights that come on, not sure what that means. Orange wires are for the water pump. I don't recall other colors off the top of my head.

The white wire is the ground.

I'll see if I can find the diagram at home.

[lojoma]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4.7 kOhm, 1/2 watt.


It's likely you have a bad transistor as well. If the light is staying on, current is not being blocked by the transistor, I think. I had to replace one transistor:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2N3569 TO-105 NPN 500mA 40Vceo Bipolar BJT Transistor