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Old 04-08-2024, 08:16 AM   #1
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Can't run my microwave with 2000 W inverter?

My 2024 Flying Cloud is off in Storage right now so I can't check for another few days, but I remembered that I have the newer solar package with a 2000 W inverter and 2 100 AH Battleborn batteries. I remember asking the dealer if I could run the microwave on battery and they said "yes, but it's not recommended". And the last time I thought about it, I turned on the the inverter and the microwave did not have power. Why would a 2000 w system not operate the microwave?
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Old 04-08-2024, 08:36 AM   #2
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You'll have to check but I'd guess the microwave is not plugged into an inverter powered outlet. Ours only lights up when plugged into external power.
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Old 04-08-2024, 08:36 AM   #3
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The 2024 rigs have a 2000w inverter, but it powers the same outlets as the 1000w inverter -- none of which power the microwave or convection microwave.

Consult the wiring diagrams in your owners manual to confirm the above.

The question remains, will the Progressive Dynamics 2000w inverter in the 2024 rigs power a microwave or convection microwave?

I would bet it would if it were in the correct circuit.

I'm powering my convection microwave off-grid with a Anker SOLIX C1000 power station inverter via some creative wiring of my own, but it could also connect to the factory shore power inlet with the right adapters.
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Old 04-08-2024, 10:09 AM   #4
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Same here. I have FFPower 2000 watt power station that powers pretty much everything except the AC. Seems like a miss by AS not making the microwave part of the inverter circuit.

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The 2024 rigs have a 2000w inverter, but it powers the same outlets as the 1000w inverter -- none of which power the microwave or convection microwave.

Consult the wiring diagrams in your owners manual to confirm the above.

The question remains, will the Progressive Dynamics 2000w inverter in the 2024 rigs power a microwave or convection microwave?

I would bet it would if it were in the correct circuit.

I'm powering my convection microwave off-grid with a Anker SOLIX C1000 power station inverter via some creative wiring of my own, but it could also connect to the factory shore power inlet with the right adapters.
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Old 04-08-2024, 11:14 AM   #5
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Too Much Current?

If your microwave consumes 1500 watts, then divide that by 12 V and you need 125 Amps from your batteries to the inverter plus more to allow for the efficiency of the inverter.

For 1500 Watts you would require AWG 4 cable from the battery to the inverter. a full 2000 Watts (175 A) would require AWG 2/0. Maybe the cable is not big enough handle the current?

If it is big enough then you would want to be careful not to run the microwave for long periods because it will be draining your battery quickly. The inverter might also overheat as it is working to supply the current your microwave needs.

If the inverter losses were 10 % then you are heating up the inverter with 150 Watts of power which could make it quite warm over a long time span. Most RV type inverters should have over temperature protection which will shut down the inverter if it overheats.
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Old 04-08-2024, 11:56 AM   #6
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It's possible there is a good reason they did not connect the microwave to the inverter outputs. That would be great to know. This isn't really a big deal for me since we almost exclusively camp at sites with at least power hook ups. It is nice to have a microwave available though.

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If your microwave consumes 1500 watts, then divide that by 12 V and you need 125 Amps from your batteries to the inverter plus more to allow for the efficiency of the inverter.

For 1500 Watts you would require AWG 4 cable from the battery to the inverter. a full 2000 Watts (175 A) would require AWG 2/0. Maybe the cable is not big enough handle the current?

If it is big enough then you would want to be careful not to run the microwave for long periods because it will be draining your battery quickly. The inverter might also overheat as it is working to supply the current your microwave needs.

If the inverter losses were 10 % then you are heating up the inverter with 150 Watts of power which could make it quite warm over a long time span. Most RV type inverters should have over temperature protection which will shut down the inverter if it overheats.
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Old 04-08-2024, 02:10 PM   #7
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When we used to run the microwave in our vintage bus conversion from our battery bank via the inverter it would drain the batteries too quickly to make it worth the effort. So I sent to Walmart and bought a low-power unit that was about 750w. It was enough to handle most re-heating needs, small enough to be able to tuck into a cabinet, and cheap enough that we didn't care if it didn't last long.

It's theoretically possible to run a full-size/full-power microwave from a 2000w inverter, but probably not the best idea.

I gotta say that this is the kind of time we're glad that our 1994 Airstream has the propane stovetop & oven in it - never have to worry about running down the batteries to reheat dinner or make coffee.
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Old 04-08-2024, 07:17 PM   #8
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When we used to run the microwave in our vintage bus conversion from our battery bank via the inverter it would drain the batteries too quickly to make it worth the effort. So I went to Walmart and bought a low-power unit that was about 750w. It was enough to handle most re-heating needs, small enough to be able to tuck into a cabinet, and cheap enough that we didn't care if it didn't last long.

It's theoretically possible to run a full-size/full-power microwave from a 2000w inverter, but probably not the best idea.

I gotta say that this is the kind of time we're glad that our 1994 Airstream has the propane stovetop & oven in it - never have to worry about running down the batteries to reheat dinner or make coffee.
Agreed and same here, we spec'd ours to have the stove, oven and microwave to cover all conditions, storage be damned. To many strange use cases between power and battery operation. You can store stuff in the TV, you can't make up power systems unless you have deep pockets and time for something that can be done more efficiently with another device meant for that purpose.... different strokes.

Wouldn't trade my 2019 for the world based on what is out now... best of all worlds IMHO.
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Old 04-14-2024, 09:59 AM   #9
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On my 2024 20FB Caravel I have the same problem. In a few weeks I will have the trailer rewired to run all outlets from the 2000 watt inverter. I am adding an additional two battle born batteries. I did not realize the microwave issue until the day I picked the unit up form the dealer. My dealer was not understanding but did offer a $20K solar upgrade package. No thanks...
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Old 04-14-2024, 11:15 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by DFDouglas View Post
On my 2024 20FB Caravel I have the same problem. In a few weeks I will have the trailer rewired to run all outlets from the 2000 watt inverter. I am adding an additional two battle born batteries. I did not realize the microwave issue until the day I picked the unit up form the dealer. My dealer was not understanding but did offer a $20K solar upgrade package. No thanks...
Just wondering, that's a lot of dedication to a microwave to rewire for a 2000W inverter. Or do you have other 2000W needs? And turn down a solar upgrade out of spite?
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Old 04-14-2024, 12:22 PM   #11
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Just wondering, that's a lot of dedication to a microwave to rewire for a 2000W inverter. Or do you have other 2000W needs? And turn down a solar upgrade out of spite?
Actually it’s not hard to make all of your outlets inverter outlets. There’s a transfer switch in the inverter that powers only inverter outlets when it’s on. Bypass that and you’re in business. At least that’s how it was with the original 1000W inverter in my 2020 FC.

HOWEVER, as someone mentioned before, you have to be careful of the load you’re asking your batteries to take on and whether your cabling is up to the task. We have four 100ah Battlebornes with a 3000 watt inverter (Victron Multiplus). When my wife turned on the convection oven while on battery power I measured about 160 amps coming from the battery bank. I wired it up with 4/0 cables so we’re ok from that standpoint. Even at that, it wouldn’t take long to deplete the batteries (< 3 hours).
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Old 04-14-2024, 06:00 PM   #12
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A 2000W will run your microwave. Just rewire the outlet that it plugs into so that it is served by the inverter. You'll love it!
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Old 04-18-2024, 10:23 AM   #13
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For the outlets that are wired for the inverter, would it be a problem to run a drip coffee maker off that outlet?

I don't boondock, and I did not order my rig w/ the solar option. I'm trying to decide if its worth moving from the Lifeline AGMs I was going to put in my rig to 2 Battleborns. I know I'm getting a lot of extra amp hours, but since I don't boondock I'm trying to figure out what I'd actually use that extra power for. I'm thinking if I can run everything in my camper besides for the AC units and microwave, maybe one could make a case for not plugging in at all for those overnight early departure stays? The fridge, hwh, furnace, etc. all run 12v.

Trying to decide if its worth the price for my use case.
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Old 04-18-2024, 10:52 AM   #14
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The inverter will run the microwave if setup to.

That said, IMO, 2x Battleborns are not up to the task from a capacity standpoint. 200Ah is not a lot and par for most trailers standard utilization. Microwave loads will draw that down in a hurry. And no one wants a dead trailer with lithium batteries in BMS protection.

It's roughly 10Ah of consumption every 4 min of microwave use.
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Old 04-18-2024, 11:09 AM   #15
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For the outlets that are wired for the inverter, would it be a problem to run a drip coffee maker off that outlet?

I don't boondock, and I did not order my rig w/ the solar option. I'm trying to decide if its worth moving from the Lifeline AGMs I was going to put in my rig to 2 Battleborns. I know I'm getting a lot of extra amp hours, but since I don't boondock I'm trying to figure out what I'd actually use that extra power for. I'm thinking if I can run everything in my camper besides for the AC units and microwave, maybe one could make a case for not plugging in at all for those overnight early departure stays? The fridge, hwh, furnace, etc. all run 12v.

Trying to decide if its worth the price for my use case.
Theoretically, in my case, I have 1000W in my unit, if you have 2000W in a new unit great. So bear with me, the answer is, it depends on your coffee pot and..... it depends. Why does it depend? Let's look at why:

The outlets, regardless if they are inverter or not, are RATED at 15A which is a standard outlet you find just like in your home, how do you know? Because both of the slots are vertical only with a ground. If they were 20A (which they are not), one of the slots would have an opening that is 90 degrees. So, knowing you don't have 20A anywhere in the trailer, in the USA anyway, the math in an ABSOLUTE sense states that the voltage is standard at 120/125V (depending on who you talk to, we will use 125 here for worse case) and current limited to 15 amps by the circuit breaker in the panel. That yields a technical maximum of 1875W of power to run any given device.

Now, look at the inverters and use case. The depends answer says, if I plug in a 1500W coffee maker, into my inverter system (shore power need not apply), its a no go... pot wants more than inverter could ever provide. The 2000W assuming a 10% loss in power conversion will be able to power that pot for whatever duration and state of charge the batteries can deliver, but at 12V, that is a ton of current and it will eat the batteries fast, but, it will "do it".

Now, you "could" find an RV friendly pot like we did which is rated at which I recall was 550W and while it will take a bit "longer" to get my brew, either one of the systems will be able to brew the java.

In terms of the WIRING in the rig, that is of NO CONCERN to anyone....why? Because it follows the NEMA standards and uses Romex rated to deliver the intended 15A @ 125V current REGARDLESS OF THE POWER SOURCE that can be delivered to the outlets when/if tasked to do so. If not, Airstream would be liable for injury/deaths from fires and improper material use by not following proper living quarter practices and since you can claim your Airstream as a 2nd home, that all jives to ensure the outlets can/will deliver what the ratings they are set up for. In this case, 15A, 125VAC, 1875W.

It sounds like a lot, it isn't, it is actually a MIRROR of EXACTLY how your home is setup in every single way.

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Old 04-18-2024, 11:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S1njin View Post
For the outlets that are wired for the inverter, would it be a problem to run a drip coffee maker off that outlet?

I don't boondock, and I did not order my rig w/ the solar option. I'm trying to decide if its worth moving from the Lifeline AGMs I was going to put in my rig to 2 Battleborns. I know I'm getting a lot of extra amp hours, but since I don't boondock I'm trying to figure out what I'd actually use that extra power for. I'm thinking if I can run everything in my camper besides for the AC units and microwave, maybe one could make a case for not plugging in at all for those overnight early departure stays? The fridge, hwh, furnace, etc. all run 12v.

Trying to decide if its worth the price for my use case.
My Ratio 6 is 1400W and it says it takes 8 minutes, so 15Ah by my calculation (more with conversion loss). With an effective 100Ah with AGMs that's 15% of capacity and then there's the microwave to run as well. That might make me uncomfortable.

Another consideration, if you travel any long distances you might not find a place to plug in overnight (or at least want the option to park at Cracker Barrel). With your electric frig and other draws lithium will give you a much bigger margin of error since you get 2x the effective capacity. If you've read any of my other posts on the subject I think there are alternatives to BBs that are much less expensive and will do the job since a typical RV doesn't have a lot of duty cycles. But then they're the best.
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Old 04-18-2024, 11:48 PM   #17
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The inverter will run the microwave if setup to.

That said, IMO, 2x Battleborns are not up to the task from a capacity standpoint. 200Ah is not a lot and par for most trailers standard utilization. Microwave loads will draw that down in a hurry. And no one wants a dead trailer with lithium batteries in BMS protection.

It's roughly 10Ah of consumption every 4 min of microwave use.
what pteck said … I can’t speak about the specific inverter brand/model in question by theOP, but I can say that I power my microwave from a (dedicated) 2000w inverter, so it is possible to do it. Also agree with pteck about battery capacity, I added a third to my system so I have 300ah of lithium, specifically for this case (microwave use). The startup surge currents are the real issue for the battery bank, I saw others posting that the surge current can be 160A, the “normal” operating current was lower for the uwave, but you want the battery bank large enough to absorb that starting surge and still have some margin leftover.
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Old 04-19-2024, 06:10 AM   #18
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A lot of hypothetical & speculative comments here. Here is some real world experience: In my last trailer, I ran two Group 27 AGM batteries tied to a 2000W Inverter with 2/0 cable thru a 200A resettable breaker. It worked fine for running the standard RV Microwave. Would I run the microwave for an hour, absolutely not - but who does??? For quick heat ups, it worked great! I never had an issue with the system. I did wire it with an automatic disconnect so that you wouldn't fry the inverter with a shorepower back feed. 90% of our use is boon docking. Are LiO batteries better than AGMs - Yes! Do you need them - No. Make sure that if you're going AGM that they are rated for the discharge you'll be subjecting them to. The Renogy's 100Ah AGMs will support a 2000W Inverter (which has a higher short term rating for those that say you need a larger inverter). BTW, you can turn the Grp31 AGMs sideways in the newer batter boxes and they fit (barely). Have fun!
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Old 04-20-2024, 08:04 AM   #19
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A lot of hypothetical & speculative comments here. Here is some real world experience: In my last trailer, I ran two Group 27 AGM batteries tied to a 2000W Inverter with 2/0 cable thru a 200A resettable breaker. It worked fine for running the standard RV Microwave. Would I run the microwave for an hour, absolutely not - but who does??? For quick heat ups, it worked great! I never had an issue with the system. I did wire it with an automatic disconnect so that you wouldn't fry the inverter with a shorepower back feed. 90% of our use is boon docking. Are LiO batteries better than AGMs - Yes! Do you need them - No. Make sure that if you're going AGM that they are rated for the discharge you'll be subjecting them to. The Renogy's 100Ah AGMs will support a 2000W Inverter (which has a higher short term rating for those that say you need a larger inverter). BTW, you can turn the Grp31 AGMs sideways in the newer batter boxes and they fit (barely). Have fun!
Agree, but one important thing to know re: AGM vs LiFeO4 batteries is the rate of charge. AGMs take a long time to charge. Lithiums will accept a charge (to 80%) relatively fast.

When boondocking in a national park last fall, we had very little time to run the generator for recharge between quiet hours and daily - away from the trailer- activities. Running the generator for 2 hours hardly put a dent in the AGM state of charge. It was heavily wooded so solar didn’t do us much good. It was cold and we had to run the furnace at night. That’s what made me go with lithiums.
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Old 04-20-2024, 04:07 PM   #20
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A lot of hypothetical & speculative comments here. Here is some real world experience: In my last trailer, I ran two Group 27 AGM batteries tied to a 2000W Inverter with 2/0 cable thru a 200A resettable breaker. It worked fine for running the standard RV Microwave. Would I run the microwave for an hour, absolutely not - but who does??? For quick heat ups, it worked great! I never had an issue with the system. I did wire it with an automatic disconnect so that you wouldn't fry the inverter with a shorepower back feed. 90% of our use is boon docking. Are LiO batteries better than AGMs - Yes! Do you need them - No. Make sure that if you're going AGM that they are rated for the discharge you'll be subjecting them to. The Renogy's 100Ah AGMs will support a 2000W Inverter (which has a higher short term rating for those that say you need a larger inverter). BTW, you can turn the Grp31 AGMs sideways in the newer batter boxes and they fit (barely). Have fun!
And so did I, back when I had 2x 6V lead acid golf cart batts.

There are a couple differences you might not be taking into consideration. The 2024 AS have 12V DC Compressor fridges that are a major load. Lithium's also don't give much warning when BMSs shut down the party hard.

200Ah is not enough margin for inverter use.
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