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Old 03-20-2017, 06:49 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutboy View Post
Micro-Air Easy Start - or should we say Easy Install

Today I installed the black Easy Start 364 in my 2017 Flying Cloud 23D Bunk. I believe its a Dometic Penguin II. This is a long two threads detailing my experience (needed two threads because of the number of pictures) See picture below below of the unit I installed...
Outstanding work, photos, and write-up, Troutboy! Documenting an install as thoroughly as you did can be as much work as the install itself, so kudos to you. Many thanks from us at Micro-Air.

Your A/C is in fact a Dometic Penguin II, and I now believe that it is the only model Airstream uses in their current production. We expect to receive ours at the Micro-Air factory sometime this week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD Pilot View Post
That's a great post Troutboy! I have a 2017 23FB, so I should have an ac set up just like yours. I hope the black 364 Easy Starts don't run out too quick....
As of last Friday, there are only a handful of black-enclosure EasyStart 364s left in our stock, and I've directed my production manager to try and reserve them for Airstream customers. Some other customers who don't have Dometic Penguin IIs require the IP65, so we're doing our best to allocate appropriately. After the black enclosures are gone though, they're gone for good. Thereafter, everyone will get the beige IP65 enclosure version instead, for which I will be posting some installation photos as soon as possible, unless Turk beats me to it...

I expect the IP65 installation to be about the same degree of difficulty, or maybe a tiny bit easier. One won't have to "rearrange" the contents of the electric box, so that will save a lot of work. Securing it and running of the harness will be the challenge, for which I suspect Turk or we will come up with something reasonably easy.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:47 AM   #122
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I just ordered the "black" version, so save one for me Matteo!
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:09 PM   #123
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I ordered my black one this morning, so looking forward to getting it in and working.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:59 PM   #124
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We ordered two "black ones" today! Now who are we going to get to install them??? When our Girl is finally born at the factory this May we will have to find someone!
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:05 PM   #125
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At this rate all the black ones will be sold by the end of the week! Matteo should pay commission to the site, lol!
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:11 PM   #126
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At this rate all the black ones will be sold by the end of the week! Matteo should pay commission to the site, lol!
He did, Matteo was kind enough to offer a discount to Airstream owners.
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:11 PM   #127
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We would prefer he simply start installing them!
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:13 PM   #128
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He did, Matteo was kind enough to offer a discount to Airstream owners.


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Old 03-20-2017, 04:13 PM   #129
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Can Generators Run Both AC's While Boondocking?

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He did, Matteo was kind enough to offer a discount to Airstream owners.


That's Right Bold! I forgot about that discount, it is a great discount!
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Old 03-21-2017, 01:52 PM   #130
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We would prefer he simply start installing them!
Chris & Sabrina
Ward - we're working on that! Although you are in Virginia, Google Maps tells me that you are about as far west as you can get, and that puts you over 6 hours away from Fred at AAP in Milford. If you have someone local who is going to do the installation for you, don't hesitate to have them contact me directly for assistance. Send them the link to the PDF report from my original post back at this link, and also show them all the photos Troutboy just posted. We can get them through it. Piece of cake!
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:26 PM   #131
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turk123 / penquin II Easystart install

I know a few of you are waiting for my install, well, let’s get started!


Earlier I listed a few pieces of equipment I bought (Ratcheting Crimping tool $30, the cheap crimping tool $7). I own a heat gun (You should also after learning how well it works covering connectors with a waterproof cover). Hair dry will not work. Of course, a few tools and sockets and a way to work comfortably on the roof.

I also had a friend there to help hand up items I needed.

Here is a link to the tubing:

http://a.co/dMRHsvY

I also purchased the proper tool to crimp butt splices. This one is less than half of the good Ancor tool, and I have to say, very well made. I've always used the simple $7 crimper you get in the kit with the splicing connectors, but this one really is worth the money and will do a far superior job with it's ratcheting grip. Perfect pressure each time.

http://a.co/2F4LCzz

I went to McMaster Carr for the Butt slices:

Multi-Way Heat-Shrink Crimp-On Butt Splices 10-12 and 14-16

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/796/=16n2qrf

These accommodate the difference in wire size and are a bit more expensive, but you only need to buy a few.

Here are the caps:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/799/=16n2ryp

I bought larger ones to accommodate the three wires. Interestingly, the cheap crimper works better on the caps as the good tool is too wide and will not squeeze these.

Crimp-on Wire Splicing Connectors
for 18-8 Wire Gauge
7242K65
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:29 PM   #132
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Install

The cover comes off with just four screws. Two screws in the front and two on the side rear. The electrical box housing is next. It comes off with two screws on the front left and right. The foam above the electrical box has to be cut with a razor blade to remove the electrical box cover.

Once the cover is off you will see the large capacitor on the right. You need to remove the screw holding the strap around the capacitor. Keep an eye on that screw!

Below the large capacitor is the start cap. It is sideways and dark brown. It also has a metal strap holding it to the back of the box. Remove that screw, lift up on the large capacitor to pull out the start cap. Follow the two wires on the start cap. One goes to the large capacitor. Remove it there. The other wire goes to the small brown device that is clipped onto the left wall of the electrical box. Just pull on it to remove. Follow the wire to where it connects and remove that connector. You should now have both items free and clear of the electrical box. You are done in here.

Make a note that there are dipswitches inside the electrical box on the upper right of the circuit board mounted on the back of the box. Be careful not to change any.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:33 PM   #133
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Here are the parts that I removed from the electrical box. I wouldn't throw them away just yet. Maybe you could use them to electrify the outside of the trailer to keep intruders out.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:36 PM   #134
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We now go to the opposite side of the AC. You can see where I mounted the Easystart. I used industrial Velcro. Mount the “loop” on the back of the Easystart and the hooks on the plastic and foam wall of the AC. Don’t try to apply each part (hook and loop) separately, but just apply both to the back of the Easystart, peel off the last paper and stick the whole thing on the wall with the waterproof connector DOWN. There is a capacitor or component inside the easy start that cannot be installed upside down (connector up). This came from Matteo.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:38 PM   #135
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Matteo thought I should drill another hole in the side to route the cable. You do not have to. The current hole is big enough to allow for the entire wrapped bundle to fit through. The hole is covered by a sort of soft putty and can be reused. There was plenty there for my installation. Just feed the cable through the opening and remodel the putty to cover up the hole again.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:45 PM   #136
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From the diagram that Matteo gave me and shown here, there are only three wires that get cut. The red, the blue and the white.

Cut the Blue wire approximately in the center or maybe a little closer to the electrical box so it is easier to work on. You now have two ends that will fit into the electrical cap. From the Easystart, add the black wire to the blue ends and twist all three together. These will go into the first electrical cap. Use the “cheap” crimper to crimp these three wires together. The ratcheting crimping tool will not crimp this type of cap. Don’t try as the ratcheting crimp tool will not let go (ask me how I know!) After all the connections are made you will be using heat shrink tubing and epoxy to seal everything. Do all you connections first and then go back to the sealing process.

The second cap contains the red wire (AC) and the orange wire from the easystart. Cut the red wire in a similar area as the white one earlier and put both red ends and the orange wire into the cap. Crimp them together. Keep the wires clear. Don’t tangle wires from other connectors.

Cut the white wire on the AC. The brown wire from the ES goes to the one white end that leads to the compressor on the other side of the AC away from you and where you mounted the Easystart. The White wire on the Easystart connects to the other white wire end (that you made by cutting) and that wire heads into the electrical box on your side of the AC. I purchased butt connectors that have one side #10 and the other side #14. Do you need these? No. The #10’s would probably work just as well. The Ratcheting crimping tool is the key. It works extremely well and I should have bought one long ago. The connectors are the adhesive type and shrink and seal when heated with the heat gun.

Special note: Put your heat shrink tubing on the wire before you make your final connection. Or you will be doing it over.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:48 PM   #137
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After the four connection are made I used my heat gun to heat the butt connectors first. They shrink and a glue oozes out as it tightens. Slip the heat shrink tubing over the butt connector and shrink again. Now that is water tight (and probably overkill!).

I mixed a two part 5 minute epoxy in a dixey cup using a popsicle stick and using the stick, fill each cap with epoxy. It takes about 15 minutes for them to get hard.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:53 PM   #138
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When all is done, I used plastic ties to bundle the harness as close together as I could get. The AC has a bracket as part of the fan housing that holds the original wires away from the motor shaft and fan blades. It is too small now to handle the larger bundle. I created loops from plastic ties and “looped” them over the original bracket. There is just not anything else available to connect to. I had more Velcro but did not remember this, and I could have used this as a solution to hold the wires. The plastic ties will get brittle one day and probably break. I will replace with the industrial Velcro next season when the cover comes off for cleaning. The harness is not very pretty. It was hard to make it "neat" with the different components and fixed wire lengths. But it will not come apart.

And another important note: Be careful reaching around this unit. Every time you brush up against it, you will bend some of the fins in the radiator. I did. Nothing that will stop it from working, but it’s easy to do.
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Old 03-24-2017, 06:01 PM   #139
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Matteo said that down the road the Easystarts may come with longer wiring to reach the electrical box. That’s good and will eliminate the need to worry about weather proofing the installation. It also might make it a little neater installation. The trade off is that you still have to crimp the connector and work in that cramped space. The way I did this (actually Matteos original instructions) was very easy and in the open, something you might consider when you are 10 ˝ feet up off the ground with your legs falling asleep!

So how does it all work? I don’t know? My trailer is winterized and stored away. I removed the batteries before winter and well, the inside is all packed up with plastic boxes holding everything we store in the trailer, on the floor. In a few more weeks it will be coming out. I will give you a rundown then.

If you have any questions or see anything wrong (oh no!) let me know.

By the way, I've heard that some have used double sided 3m tape to install the Easystart on the AC wall. The industrial velcro I used is VERY strong. I know I would have a heck of a time taking it back out.

The end
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Old 03-24-2017, 06:29 PM   #140
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Holy cow, Turk! Nice job and very nice picture guide. You get 5 stars!

Between you, Troutboy, Larry, lewster, and everyone else who has contributed such great photos and details, I can probably leave all of you to take care of yourselves and get back to some design & development work that I'm behind on!

Good news - my colleagues in NJ got the first draft of our short PDF installation guide for the EasyStart 364 IP65 into our new Dometic Penguin II. It also has lots of photos. Yes, we're going to lengthen the harness by 8" from now on so it will reach all the way back to the electric box, in which the connections can be made per the diagram and recipe Troutboy used, all with standard crimp terminals (i.e. no epoxy required). We're also going to drop the wire gauge on the white and brown wires since #12 is more than adequate and #10 is way overkill (since it was meant for use with the 6-ton EasyStart 368). Better yet, we're going to take some tips from you and lewster and make a Penguin II installation kit that we'll sell for a few dollars alongside the EasyStart. It'll have the necessary 3M tape, crimp terminals, duct putty, tie wraps, etc. That'll make it easier for everyone rather than having to shop around like you did.

And I wouldn't worry too much about your tie wraps. Those will probably outlast all of us. I've seen every other piece of plastic go brittle in ancient equipment, long before the tie wraps do.

We're still finishing off the black enclosure EasyStart 364s, and we'll keep selling those to whoever uses the AIRSTREAM coupon until they're gone. Everyone with those can follow the recipe that Troutboy and I documented. When they're gone, I'll change the product photo on the webstore and website, add the installation kit to the offerings, and we'll post the final IP65 PDF installation guide here and on the website.

Once again, great job! Thank you again!
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