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Old 03-13-2017, 01:18 PM   #81
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Question on the epoxy coating of the connections. Around my S&B, I have often used "liquid electrical tape". Stuff seems to be paint-able vinyl. Comes in several colors. Any reason this isn't sufficient to coat the connections? I've had good results on my sprinkler system and repairing some extension cords.

http://www.menards.com/main/electric...4431022369.htm
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Old 03-13-2017, 01:23 PM   #82
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Question on the epoxy coating of the connections. Around my S&B, I have often used "liquid electrical tape". Stuff seems to be paint-able vinyl. Comes in several colors. Any reason this isn't sufficient to coat the connections? I've had good results on my sprinkler system and repairing some extension cords.

http://www.menards.com/main/electric...4431022369.htm
Good suggestion. In place of self-adhesive (epoxy) splices and self-adhesive heat-shrink tubing, this liquid electric tape does appear to be adequate for any connections that have to get made outside of an electric box, like Turk123 is planning.
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:02 PM   #83
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I am not an expert, maybe Lewster is watching. There are RV codes that are not that stringent, then there are marine wiring codes that seem better defined and more rigorous.

I would be very careful of connecting, and comparing to a sprinkler system where it is not moving down a road, bumpy, vibrating etc.

From what I have read, proper crimp connectors are the best method.

My experience with the painted on stuff is that it is not very flexible and tends to crack. I coated on a bike brake line, and it cracked. I coated it on some earbuds, and it cracked.

Proper taping or heat shrink seems to be the best in my opinion. YMMV
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:14 PM   #84
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Today I installed a EasyStart 364 into a 15,000 BTU Dometic Penguin heat pump. I followed Matteo's instructions he assembled in a pdf file posted earlier in this thread to a tee. Incredibly it all fit into that tiny electrical box (photo attached). I'm also happy to report that the air conditioner turn on. My greatest fear was to be witness to a blazing fireball on top of my shiny Airstream.

The first time it ran it took a very long time (maybe one or two minutes) for the compressor to kick in. The second and subsequent times the compressor kicked in like normal, within 15 seconds or so of the fan starting. I can definitely confirm that startup is quieter. The fan is still that same old noisy fan. It seemed strange to be taking parts out and tossing them, but I did do what the instructions said to do (photo attached). BTW - the instructions are very clear.

For kicks, I plugged the trailer extension cord into my Kill-a-Watt meter. The Kill-a-Watt is too slow to capture the highest instant current draw, but it did show a fairly constant draw of about 1,600 watts after running a few minutes. Today the temperature here was in the upper 70's/low 80's. A photo of the Kill-a-Watt readout is attached.

Tomorrow a friend is bringing his Honda 2000 over for a generator test. Fingers crossed this works, its the sole reason I purchased and installed the EasyStart.
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:17 PM   #85
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My experience with the painted on stuff is that it is not very flexible and tends to crack. I coated on a bike brake line, and it cracked. I coated it on some earbuds, and it cracked.
YMMV
Thanks for the input. I have no experience using liquid electrical tape, but the reading I did on it after reading SailorSam205's post made it seem promising. But given what you have stated about it cracking, that might rule it out. There is no doubt that using the epoxy heat-shrink butt splices and/or epoxy heat-shrink tubing are the best ways to go, so those who end up having to make the wiring connections in the open condenser fan area may have to seek these out at the local marine store, where they are readily available. These are ABYC Marine approved for use in bilge areas.
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Old 03-13-2017, 10:19 PM   #86
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It's been shown a Honda 2000 can start and run a 15,000 BTU or smaller AC. Yamaha has a comparible generator. Has anybody tried operating the same AC with a Yamaha 2000?
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Old 03-13-2017, 10:47 PM   #87
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Typically I find that I only need 1 AC running. 2016 Classic.
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Old 03-14-2017, 03:45 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by kscherzi View Post
It's been shown a Honda 2000 can start and run a 15,000 BTU or smaller AC. Yamaha has a comparible generator. Has anybody tried operating the same AC with a Yamaha 2000?


Are you talking about using a 2000 after an easy start has been installed?
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Old 03-14-2017, 06:37 AM   #89
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It's been shown a Honda 2000 can start and run a 15,000 BTU or smaller AC. Yamaha has a comparible generator. Has anybody tried operating the same AC with a Yamaha 2000?
Hi kscherzi. I just looked through my notes and found an EasyStart customer on another forum that installed an EasyStart into his rooftop A/C for use with his Yamaha EF2000iS with the tri-fuel kit from US Carb back in November 2016. I contacted him just now and he stated that he did the installation and was able to run his A/C off of the generator. Immediately afterwards, he drove back up north and hasn't needed to run his A/C since. He said he'll keep me posted on his testing once the warm weather comes and he needs to run his A/C again.
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Old 03-14-2017, 06:39 AM   #90
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I also have the Yamaha converted to propane, but have not tested it with my Micro-Air. I will test it in May before a June trip where I will probably need it.
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:09 AM   #91
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Hi kscherzi. I just looked through my notes and found an EasyStart customer on another forum that installed an EasyStart into his rooftop A/C for use with his Yamaha EF2000iS with the tri-fuel kit from US Carb back in November 2016. I contacted him just now and he stated that he did the installation and was able to run his A/C off of the generator. Immediately afterwards, he drove back up north and hasn't needed to run his A/C since. He said he'll keep me posted on his testing once the warm weather comes and he needs to run his A/C again.
Thanks for the info, and yes, my question about the Yamaha 2000is is about starting and running the AC with an EasyStart. I currently don't own a generator. I'm weighing both the Honda and Yamaha 2000's. The EasyStart is like a miracle. It eliminates the need for a large and (backbreaking) heavy hunk of machiniary in the truck for what is probably very occasional use. If it gets really hot when I'm on the road I'll probably go elsewhere or to a RV park with power. I'm leaning towards the Yamaha as it's a bit cheaper, lighter, and smaller. It also has a fuel cutoff to the carb. More important is whether it can sustain that very short moment of high current demand alongside the EasyStart at compressor startup as the Honda has proven.

Today we test with my friends Honda 2000. My trailer has the larger AC unit, the 15,000 BTU Dometic Penguin. According to evidence it should start and run fine.

Also, I didn't mention earlier, but installation of the EasyStart was not all that technical, hard, or tricky. Anybody with patience and average handyman skills ought to be able to manage the project. Hardest part is climbing on and off the roof of the trailer. Naturally I did it about ten times as I always seemed to forget this or that.
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Old 03-14-2017, 07:24 AM   #92
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I have to ask...have not read anybody else ask...Matteo, why can't one of these EasyStart devices be made small enough to wire into the electrical connection area?? You have said the Black 364 is no more, but I wonder why....it seems to be a much tidier installation. If I wait awhile, will there be a better/smaller EasyStart?
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:16 AM   #93
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I have to ask...have not read anybody else ask...Matteo, why can't one of these EasyStart devices be made small enough to wire into the electrical connection area?? You have said the Black 364 is no more, but I wonder why....it seems to be a much tidier installation. If I wait awhile, will there be a better/smaller EasyStart?


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Old 03-14-2017, 11:03 AM   #94
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I have to ask...have not read anybody else ask...Matteo, why can't one of these EasyStart devices be made small enough to wire into the electrical connection area?? You have said the Black 364 is no more, but I wonder why....it seems to be a much tidier installation. If I wait awhile, will there be a better/smaller EasyStart?
Thanks for the questions.

Yes, the Easystart 364 with the black enclosure is phasing out in lieu of an EasyStart 364 in a beige IP65 enclosure. All the details about this were posted in another thread at this link. The fact that the IP65 enclosure is too large to fit inside the Dometic Penguin II's electric box is unfortunate, but that is the reality of providing a more versatile product that can essentially be mounted anywhere. In this case, as Turk123 is preparing for, it is only the making of the electrical connections that becomes less tidy. As with all low-profile rooftop A/C units, the available space underneath its cover is very limited. The best spot that was found to mount the IP65 EasyStart 364 turned out to be too far from electric box for the harness to reach, so this is what is forcing the electrical connections to be made outside of the electrical box. Fortunately, this is a surmountable challenge when using the appropriate, marine-grade crimp terminals and heat-shrink.

Regarding your question about an EasyStart that could be built into the existing electrical enclosure, it already exists! It's the EasyStart 366 circuit-board only model. It requires additional labor, components, and know-how to install, but it most certainly fits inside the Dometic Penguin II's electrical enclosure. It also costs about half as much as the EasyStart 364, but we only recommend it to the more advanced DIY customers who know how to work with mounting circuit boards on standoffs, creating their own wiring harness, and procuring the extra components. Please see the post at this link with all of details as it was installed by forum member lsbrodsky.
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Old 03-14-2017, 03:31 PM   #95
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Good news. The test of the Honda 2000 and EasyStart on my trailers 15,000 BTU Dometic was a success. We plugged in the Honda, started it on eco mode, the went into the trailer and turned on the AC. It fired right up (after the proper delay). Then Honda revved up and met the electrical demand. It was that simple.

For reference, I'm at about 1,000 feet altitude and temperatures in the mid to upper 70's here today. Very sunny and feels like lower 80's. We also had the fridge on (propane) to simulate camping.

What a great solution. I'm just thrilled. A single small generator is all anyone really needs for full featured camping.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:45 AM   #96
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Good news. The test of the Honda 2000 and EasyStart on my trailers 15,000 BTU Dometic was a success. We plugged in the Honda, started it on eco mode, the went into the trailer and turned on the AC. It fired right up (after the proper delay). Then Honda revved up and met the electrical demand. It was that simple.

For reference, I'm at about 1,000 feet altitude and temperatures in the mid to upper 70's here today. Very sunny and feels like lower 80's. We also had the fridge on (propane) to simulate camping.

What a great solution. I'm just thrilled. A single small generator is all anyone really needs for full featured camping.
I have a Champion 3100 Inverter generator. It starts and runs my AC units without Easy Start. Start it up plug in the cable and presto.
Weighs 84 lbs.
When I get too old and weak to lift it, I will be selling the generator, the Airstream the F-250 and get me rocking chair.
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:31 PM   #97
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For the Micro-Air in question, Fred from AAP in Virginia quoted $286 for parts and $100 for labor.
The part number is: AAP-MAC-ASSY-364-X36.
So we will do that install whenever the real Spring arrives. C
RC
That sounds very reasonable. Who, What and Where is AAP in Virginia? I live in MD and might make that trip if close enough.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:08 PM   #98
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I have to ask of those who know, is it possible to route easy start through the roof where wiring already comes through and mount easy start inside? I can see room through the two return vents that could house the box if cabling can get through
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:38 PM   #99
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That sounds very reasonable. Who, What and Where is AAP in Virginia? I live in MD and might make that trip if close enough.
Thanks.
Hi Doc - AAP is a very long-established company specializing in inverter power systems and air conditioning for coach and trucking applications. They have been partnered with Dometic Truck and Dometic Marine (Cruisair brand) for decades. Dometic/Cruisair actually still manufactures a split "basement" A/C unit for coach applications, and AAP installs them all the time. AAP also installs Dometic's "Blizzard Turbo" Truck Auxillary A/C system into class 8 trucks. This system from Dometic actually has the EasyStart 366 built in at their factory since it is most often run off of an inverter. The late Bill Harris, original founder of AAP in the mid 1980s, was actually part of Marine Development Corporation, which later became Cruisair, in the early 1960s. Fred Pickering runs AAP now, and has been in the business for decades as well. Like Dometic, Micro-Air has done business with AAP since being established in the early 1980s, and Micro-Air founder and owner, Andy Spaziani, Bill Harris, and Fred Pickering all worked together WAY back into the early days of the marine A/C business. They're all part of the "founding fathers" for that industry, IMHO. That answers your "who" and "what" questions . Below is the answer to the where question:
AAP, Incorporated
16388 Industrial Drive
Milford, VA 22514
Ph: 804/633-9454
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I have to ask of those who know, is it possible to route easy start through the roof where wiring already comes through and mount easy start inside? I can see room through the two return vents that could house the box if cabling can get through
Dblee1950 - It might be feasible to do what you are suggesting, but it will all depend on the internal construction of your particular rooftop A/C. Typically, the evaporator or "indoor coil" and indoor fan section - accessible from the inside down below - are "isolated" up above from the outdoor section by a foam-insulated plastic containment barrier. Wiring does penetrate this barrier through air-tight glands, so it is certainly possible to pass the EasyStarts harness through this seal as well and wire it up above. Typically though, doing this is not very practical or convenient since the harness is bulky and may not be long enough. You'd be better off mounting the EasyStart up above. Let us know what your particular A/C system is, and I can advise better.
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:25 AM   #100
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I have a 2017 FC, with the 15K BTU low profile AC. I've seen recent posts of how ES was mounted, but wondered if inside mounting would be feasible/easier.
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