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12-03-2009, 07:06 AM
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#1
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The truth has no agenda
1970 27' Overlander
Katy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 240
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Blank Electrical Canvas
Good morning all. I have been searching and reading, trying to start to devise an electrical plan for the 27' Overlander. We are starting from ZERO so with that in mind, I need to get info. There are things that I would like to accomplish in the whole process. I will be purchasing a new converter/charger. Should I use multiple batteries or single. If it's a single battery, is there a way to have one in reserve for a backup? I will be adding additional 110v circuits to allow for things such as lighting, microwave, LCD TVs and various 110 appliances. I am strongly considering putting a new furnace back in as well as keeping the AC. From what I understand, If I have access to shore power, then I don't have as many things to worry about, but if I am in a "boon docking" situation, there are more issues to deal with. I would like to include an inverter to the mix to be able to at least run minimal 110v appliances when not hooked to 110v. My intention is to do this right the first time and not have to reinvent the system in the future if I want to add something. I am at a stage where additional wiring for systems can be added easily.
If anyone has pictures, diagrams, suggestions, I am more than happy to listen, look and learn.
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12-03-2009, 07:32 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJMarkhams70
if I am in a "boon docking" situation
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Have you thought about adding solar to your electrical to do list?
__________________
Lee
1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT
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12-03-2009, 07:54 AM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 490
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I suggest a #6/4-conductor cord, suitable for 50 amps.
Bring this new cord into a new small breaker box with
new breakers and good tight connections. The good supply
and distribution will serve you well and need no apologies.
Muscle had and less used is better than needed and not had!
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12-03-2009, 09:44 AM
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#4
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The truth has no agenda
1970 27' Overlander
Katy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 240
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I have entertained the idea of adding solar to the mix.
And yes I would rather have and not need than to need and not have.
I have a long list of upgrades that I would like to see incorporated into the trailer, although I dont have an unlimited budget on the thing. I do however subscribe to the theory that systems that are imbedded into the trailer and would require major renovations to change should be brought up to where you want them to be ultimately.
So I want to wire the thing for the "Ultimate Livable Situation"...
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12-03-2009, 10:08 AM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 490
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So I want to wire the thing for the "Ultimate Livable Situation"...
Here in Texas, you will want that airconditioner to have
all it wants and then enough for all you may want:
Access to the 50 Amp power will put
the stuff to it...careful - it comes in at
240V and must be divided and balanced
for 120V circuits.
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12-03-2009, 10:41 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Yeah, I went 'ultimate' with mine, and haven't regretted it for a moment. Couple of ideas:
1. Have a central point for the 12V distribution and 120V distribution panels. I located mine in the aft end of the overhead streetside cupboard. It's great to have all the breakers and fuses at eye level, but hidden.
2. Run 1/2" plastic conduit for all the 12V. Great to be able to pull a new circuit or change something around.
3. I ran armored cable for all the 120V stuff. It just seem more rugged and less susceptible to chaffing.
4. I located the battery, converter, inverter, and all the major I/O 12V breakers in the curbside closet.
I've been using the system for two years without any problems. I usually hook up to 30a power, but the 50a/240V is there if I ever need it.
Here is a picture of the main panels (8x120Vac and 17x12Vdc fuses), some of the conduit and wiring, and the battery/converter setup.
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12-03-2009, 10:45 AM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 490
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markdoane - that is some very nice lookig work!!!
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12-03-2009, 11:51 AM
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#8
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banjobill
2000 30' Limited
battle ground,
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 516
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ultimate?
mj-i know you have done restore work on autos, so you know how to do all this. Commercial AC layouts usually use conduit. Exposed conduit. which is ugly. building a trailer perfectly the first time has to be a tall order. you may/will want to add or change electrical apparati-both 12v and 120vac. using conduits-exposed or hidden will facilitate repair/changes. obviously hidden less so than exposed. More circuits are more flexible than fewer, multipled circuits (as an example in my AS charger, bath and outside outlet are all on a single GFCI-if I want to turn the charger off-the other is off, too). Hard wired circuits are NOT necessary-almost all appliances can be "plug and play"-even 120vac stuff. Just plan ahead. use one line diagrams and include all the "stuff" you want-even pie in the sky stuff (dishwasher, clothes wash/dry-surround sound-bluetooth, mpe, gps BFD's and BVD's ) then, figger the physical location of all the stuff, and plan ahead for the addition. the materials are actually not horribly expensive, and with enough lead time, much of it can be obtained from garage sales. More is better.
ol' bill
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12-03-2009, 11:52 AM
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#9
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The truth has no agenda
1970 27' Overlander
Katy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Yeah, I went 'ultimate' with mine, and haven't regretted it for a moment. Couple of ideas:
1. Have a central point for the 12V distribution and 120V distribution panels. I located mine in the aft end of the overhead streetside cupboard. It's great to have all the breakers and fuses at eye level, but hidden.
2. Run 1/2" plastic conduit for all the 12V. Great to be able to pull a new circuit or change something around.
3. I ran armored cable for all the 120V stuff. It just seem more rugged and less susceptible to chaffing.
4. I located the battery, converter, inverter, and all the major I/O 12V breakers in the curbside closet.
I've been using the system for two years without any problems. I usually hook up to 30a power, but the 50a/240V is there if I ever need it.
Here is a picture of the main panels (8x120Vac and 17x12Vdc fuses), some of the conduit and wiring, and the battery/converter setup.
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I would absolutely love more picture and info of your setup.
I have done minor electrical setups, but this is a whole different animal. The mixture of 12v. 110, 220, inverters, converters, and possibly solar seems like a small nightmare...
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01-14-2010, 08:00 AM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1950 22' Liner
2004 30' Land Yacht 30 SL
St Petersburg
, Florida
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 61
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Hey MJ,
I'm in the same boat with my trailer. I have 22' Liner I'm restoring and want a similar system for 12v 120v etc. Inverters, converters/chargers. Did you get any further posts on this? I would welcome any advice and suggestions on how to proceed here as well. Thanks, Tom
__________________
Fair Winds and Following Seas,
But If You're Airstreaming let there be lots of Trees.
CapnTom
WBCCI/VAC #2453
AIR #35123
TCT
USAVTN
1950 Liner 22'
2004 Land Yacht 30 SL
2004 Chevy Avalanche
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02-14-2010, 08:59 AM
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#11
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The truth has no agenda
1970 27' Overlander
Katy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 240
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Well, we are still developing a plan for the electrical. We have all the interior stripped from the AS so it's easy to get to everything now. I want to spend some time now testing, reworking and adding to the wiring. still up in the air about what converter, inverter, control/distribution panel to use. I know I will figure it out, but I don't want to figure it out the hard way...
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