BB Batteries Dead?

[os1r1s]

I have 2 100AH heated BB batteries in my 2024 GT that seem to be dead. I've only had the trailer for about 6 months, but I've been battling charging issues since getting the trailer. At first I thought it was the charger (PD9360) so I replaced it with another 9360. At first it seemed to be a bit better. The batteries have always been able to get to 13.6/13.7 resting voltage, but it would take a while. Since taking a trip in the trailer two weekends ago, they won't seem to take more than 2 Amps/30 watts. Last week I installed a Victron Phoenix IP43 charger to get better diagnostics. I've been able to get them up to 13.11, but that is about it. They will settle down to around 12.8. I separated the batteries to ensure it wasn't one battery or the other. They both act exactly the same. Tonight I used one of the standalone Victron IP65 chargers with a battery completely disconnected and it exhibits the same behavior. The temp when doing all of this has been between 40 and 50 degrees. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'll call battle born tomorrow, but I thought I'd ask for the collective wisdom here. Do you think they are indeed dead?

[richard5933]

Is there a wiring issue between the charger and the batteries? Maybe a poorly-installed connector or crimp-on terminal somewhere? In the past I've found battery cables which had only a few strands of the cable actually crimped in the copper due to a poor install job, and other times I've found them with the insulation crimped between the copper cable and the crimp-on terminal.

First step in all this for me would be to measure the output voltage of the charger. Do this at a time when you know that the batteries are discharged and should be calling for a charge. Compare that voltage to the voltage at the batteries. If there's a substantial difference start looking for the problem connection/cable.

Even if the voltages are the same, if. you have a shunt monitor you should be able to see the amp flow to the batteries. If the flow never goes high, then you might want to try bypassing all your wiring and run a direct connection briefly between your charger and the batteries. Do this through the shunt first to see how it goes, and then without to see if the voltage changes. (You have to eliminate the shunt as a potential problem).

I'd try and keep the fuse in the system while bypassing, but since the fuse could also be faulty try substituting another one if you have a spare.

Basically, my approach is a series of binary steps aimed at eliminating potential problems one by one.

[os1r1s]

I’ve methodically gone down the list. That’s why my last step was taking one if the batteries bare with no wires other than a standalone charger connected. That *should* rule out the RV, unless I’m missing something.

[3OnOurWay]

The voltage is don’t sound quite correct for lithium.
I’m sure it been done, but have you checked the software ( ours was set incorrectly for Airstream) are your chargers is selected for lithium and taking the battery up to 14.2.

[waninae39]

you need a converter that supports lion
look into the Victron energy products . most of use use them as the are very robust an\d high quality

[jeffmc306]

os1r1s, you may want to reach out to Battle Born Support since they’re still covered under warranty. They should be able to provide some troubleshooting diagnostics and perhaps warranty replacement if necessary.

[JeffKim]

The voltages are low, but are they performing under a load? Do you have a shunt? That would give you some idea of how much they discharge compared to capacity.

Also the IP65 charger I believe will tell you how much charge it added. As a data point I have an IP65 also and have charged my lithium batteries with it using the lithium profile and it works well.

[os1r1s]

I have a Smart Shunt installed in the RV and I'm only seeing the batteries charging at 30W or so. It is wired correctly such that the negative terminal goes straight to one side of the shunt and all trailer negative connections to go the other side of the shunt.


It was based on BB advice to try to charge one or the other outside of the trailer to see if there was an imbalance causing this. That does not appear to be so.



In order to isolate any trailer related issues, I got the standalone Victron IP65 charger. It does not have a shunt, but it does tell me how much amperage is going into the battery. Right now it shows approximately 1.2 Amps, which is only 15 watts. This is presently connected to battery 2, while battery 1 is connected to the trailer.


A few folks mentioned requiring a converter that supports lithium. This did use a PD9360 which does support lithium and was set properly. I've replaced that with a Victron Phoenix IP43 which also supports lithium. It too is set properly.

Originally Posted by JeffKim

The voltages are low, but are they performing under a load? Do you have a shunt? That would give you some idea of how much they discharge compared to capacity.

[Bunker]

Here is one of my undersized battery cables I removed from the trailer when upgrading to lithium. Not saying this is your issue, but it’s possible the poorly cut cables they provided can cause issues like your having.

Look forward to what BB has to say.

[waninae39]

its best to terminate all high capacity cables with proper sized lugs and use the correct hydraulic crimper

as well place some anti-oxidant grease on the cables before crimping

when done wrap some heat shrink around the lug and cable to ensure nothing comes loose

not only does this look more professional, it ensures that the setup is clean and won't wiggle loose

[JeffKim]

Originally Posted by os1r1s

I have a Smart Shunt installed in the RV and I'm only seeing the batteries charging at 30W or so. It is wired correctly such that the negative terminal goes straight to one side of the shunt and all trailer negative connections to go the other side of the shunt.


It was based on BB advice to try to charge one or the other outside of the trailer to see if there was an imbalance causing this. That does not appear to be so.



In order to isolate any trailer related issues, I got the standalone Victron IP65 charger. It does not have a shunt, but it does tell me how much amperage is going into the battery. Right now it shows approximately 1.2 Amps, which is only 15 watts. This is presently connected to battery 2, while battery 1 is connected to the trailer.


A few folks mentioned requiring a converter that supports lithium. This did use a PD9360 which does support lithium and was set properly. I've replaced that with a Victron Phoenix IP43 which also supports lithium. It too is set properly.

I was trying to get at whether the batteries are outputting close to their stated capacity. If they are fully charged or close then they won't be absorbing much current like you're seeing. It's hard to determine exact capacity unless you have a capacity measuring device made for that purpose which generates a load. But if you provide some loads and the batteries deplete quickly then there's something wrong with them. The voltage alone is not sufficient or the charging rate.

Do you mean 30A charging? One other potential issue to add to the list if charging in the camper turns out to be an issue and not the batteries. There is a 50A type 2 breaker which resets when the amperage is exceeded. With our Victron 50A charger one of the breakers failed and it would get to 30A or so and trip. If you look at the charger output, it will spike to 30A and then go to zero and there is a clicking noise in the DC box as the breaker trips.

[os1r1s]

No, I wish I could get to 30A. I'm only getting 1-2A. And even with one of the batteries completely disconnected from the trailer and on a standalone charger, it is only accepting 1-2A. Since the behavior is the same on both batteries in or out of the camper with two different chargers, I have to believe it is the batteries. I spoke to BB this morning and they suggested I let it top off (no matter how long it takes), so that is what I am doing now.



I can draw much more than that from the batteries, but I am cautious about that due to the low state of the batteries.

Originally Posted by JeffKim

I was trying to get at whether the batteries are outputting close to their stated capacity. If they are fully charged or close then they won't be absorbing much current like you're seeing. It's hard to determine exact capacity unless you have a capacity measuring device made for that purpose which generates a load. But if you provide some loads and the batteries deplete quickly then there's something wrong with them. The voltage alone is not sufficient or the charging rate.

Do you mean 30A charging? One other potential issue to add to the list if charging in the camper turns out to be an issue and not the batteries. There is a 50A type 2 breaker which resets when the amperage is exceeded. With our Victron 50A charger one of the breakers failed and it would get to 30A or so and trip. If you look at the charger output, it will spike to 30A and then go to zero and there is a clicking noise in the DC box as the breaker trips.

[os1r1s]

So I was able to get battery 1 up to 14.4, and battery 2 up to 14.34. It took charging at 1-2 amps to get them up to that voltage. Once the second battery sat there for an hour, I reconnected both batteries to the trailer. Last night it was cold so they did not charge. As of about noon, they were down to 74% (13.2v). I kicked the charger back on hoping to see good amperage going into the batteries. Unfortunately they only seem to want to take 4 amps (together).


I spoke to BB and they want me to run them down to below 13 again and then try to charge them individually again. I am frustrated, but will comply. Now 4 different chargers, 1 completely outside of the RV, and the same behavior ... I think I have defective batteries ...

[BGClassic]

That certainly sucks, but this is why you buy Battle Born. Follow their instructions, and you'll likely get new batteries. You should be able to bench test these adequately outside of the Airstream, and put a heavy 12V load on them at home, etc., and then charge them back up.

I assume you have ruled out the rest of the electrical system, as far as wiring faults, etc? Stranger things have happened. Since this has been a problem since day 1, you may have to inspect the wiring hand-over-hand to determine if you have mis-wiring or a bad component.

If you haven't already done so, call or email Airstream for the complete electrical diagrams (,pdf) for your trailer. The drawings in the manual are not detailed enough.

Good luck.

[field & stream]

I agree with BGClassic: this is why you buy Battle Born batteries. To my great surprise, the first one I bought arrived DOA, and its replacement failed in a matter of weeks. (Both were failures of the control board.) After going through their diagnostic procedures they replaced both at no cost and paid to air ship them.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by BGClassic

That certainly sucks, but this is why you buy Battle Born. Follow their instructions, and you'll likely get new batteries. You should be able to bench test these adequately outside of the Airstream, and put a heavy 12V load on them at home, etc., and then charge them back up.

I assume you have ruled out the rest of the electrical system, as far as wiring faults, etc? Stranger things have happened. Since this has been a problem since day 1, you may have to inspect the wiring hand-over-hand to determine if you have mis-wiring or a bad component.

If you haven't already done so, call or email Airstream for the complete electrical diagrams (,pdf) for your trailer. The drawings in the manual are not detailed enough.

Good luck.

Are you saying removing a battery from the trailer and charging it on a bench with a different charger and getting the same results wouldn't ruled out the rest of the electrical system?

[BGClassic]

Are you saying removing a battery from the trailer and charging it on a bench with a different charger and getting the same results wouldn't ruled out the rest of the electrical system?

That's what I would do, given the amount of information provided. Doesn't mean I'm right or wrong. OP says he's had charging issues since buying the trailer. After seeing the electrical system in my Classic, I would want to eliminate any other components. Easy enough, since his batteries have already been removed.

[os1r1s]

Maybe my post wasn't clear, but I've already done that once for both batteries. No change in behavior since. I've also tried 4 different chargers (3 in, 1 out). I honestly can't see how its anything but the batteries at this point ...

Originally Posted by BGClassic

Are you saying removing a battery from the trailer and charging it on a bench with a different charger and getting the same results wouldn't ruled out the rest of the electrical system?

That's what I would do, given the amount of information provided. Doesn't mean I'm right or wrong. OP says he's had charging issues since buying the trailer. After seeing the electrical system in my Classic, I would want to eliminate any other components. Easy enough, since his batteries have already been removed.

[BGClassic]

os1r1s,

Understand all. I assume you have discharged the batteries enough so they will take a charge? I would just listen to the folks at BB.

[akarakos]

I recommend running your thoughts past BB tech support. On my 2023, 28 ft International. I talked with Battle Born prior to taking a wiring issue to my dealer. Wiring can happen differently from dealer to dealer because they’re the ones selling and installing your choice of batteries now and not the guys at Jackson Center. Some dealers may have a learning curve. Mine was bought by Blue Compass a few years ago but now I feel like they’re up to speed. BB’s warranty is also 10 years so they’re good in the support area. Good Luck.