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Old 05-12-2021, 03:49 PM   #1
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tyler , Texas
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battery not charging on shore power

any suggestions for fixing battery not charging on shore power, is it power converter or what other issues could cause this?
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Old 05-12-2021, 04:11 PM   #2
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We could help, but you need to give us some information on the unit you have! Year, model, and type of batteries help a lot. Type of converter you have if it's an older unit. The more information we have, the easier to help you!!!
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Old 05-12-2021, 04:13 PM   #3
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There are a number of things that can cause it.

There are usually some big fuses either in the chassis of your converter-charger or in the lines to the battery (no info on what trailer you have so I couldn't guess where, but there should be fuses there which aren't necessarily readily visible in your fuse block)

Are you sure your converter is putting out 12v? If not, is it receiving 120v on shore power?

If the converter IS putting out 12v, in some years Airstream wired up the store/use switch in a way that takes the battery out of the circuit so you're not continually charging it in "store" even if you're plugged in... some years, the battery gets charged anytime you're plugged in.

Some high-end 80s trailers had a shutoff switch for the converter. If you have one, someone might have flipped the switch wondering what it does...

Batteries can also die in ways that keep them from taking a charge, though usually that'll become apparent pretty quickly (sulfur smells, hot battery case, etc.)
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Old 05-12-2021, 04:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX View Post
If the converter IS putting out 12v, in some years Airstream wired up the store/use switch in a way that takes the battery out of the circuit so you're not continually charging it in "store" even if you're plugged in... some years, the battery gets charged anytime you're plugged in.
Adding to that, the red light next to the Use / Store switch is an indicator of the presence of 12 VDC, not necessarily that your batteries are being charged or which way the Use / Store switch is set. When connected to shore power this light will be red/lit. When not on shore power this light will be red only if the switch is in Use.

This was very confusing to me when I got our AS. Again, AS year, model and any additional information would be helpful.
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Old 05-13-2021, 09:47 AM   #5
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USE/STORE Confuser Switch

My thoughts, exactly. That USE/STORE Confuser Switch is likely at least part of the problem. It just makes so much sense to have a single LED that indicates the presence of 12 V, whether that 12 V comes from the converter/charger or the battery. Brilliant, that.

NOT!!!
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Old 05-13-2021, 10:18 AM   #6
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Hi

Grab your multimeter and see what's what. Measure the voltage at the battery post with shore power disconnected. Plug in shore power and see if the battery voltage goes up. If it does, then the converter is doing *something*. If it does not, check the converter output. If it goes up and the battery does not, then you have a fuse / switch / wire / connector / disconnect relay / ..... in there that is making trouble. If the converter voltage doesn't go up at the converter, check for shore power into the converter and the fuses on the converter.

Best guess, your 1984 Univolt is past it's use by date and should be replaced ...

Bob
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Old 05-13-2021, 05:18 PM   #7
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Had same problem was a nightmare

I had to respond to this one as I have just spent 8 months getting this fixed. August came back from trip to Yellowstone with trailer not charging on shore power. Still charged on solar. Took it to a local RV place they said bad inverter/converter/charger. Took them 5 months to get a new one and install it. Got it home same problem existed. Took it back. They say new unit bad as well and will have to go thru warranty on new unit. Stopped answering my phone calls. My neighbor, electrician looked at it and went “back to basics” found disconnected wire at the inlet plug into the trailer. Now working fine. When no charge happened also noted that AC didn’t work. Should have been a clue. Trailer didn’t know it was plugged in. I tried changing old power cord in hopes that was the problem. Now I have to question if inverter/converter/charger was really bad in the first place. $3,500 later (I changed out the #4 7 year old AGM batteries as well and switched to #3 Lithium batteries since I had to get a new system anyway). I’d start at the cord and inlet plug first before jumping to the more expensive pieces possibly needing replacement.
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Old 05-13-2021, 06:13 PM   #8
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I guess the OP solved the problem, since he never returned!!
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Old 05-14-2021, 07:05 AM   #9
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I guess the OP solved the problem, since he never returned!!
Hi

Or we scared them away ...

Bob
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Old 05-16-2021, 06:02 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by CBWELL View Post
We could help, but you need to give us some information on the unit you have! Year, model, and type of batteries help a lot. Type of converter you have if it's an older unit. The more information we have, the easier to help you!!!
it is a 2017 19 ft flying cloud.
I replace the converter, old one had something lose inside, rattled around when I turned it over. The new converter fixed the problem after I replaced both 30 amp fuses on the circuit board. all seems to be working fine right now.
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Old 05-16-2021, 06:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homeward View Post
it is a 2017 19 ft flying cloud.
I replace the converter, old one had something lose inside, rattled around when I turned it over. The new converter fixed the problem after I replaced both 30 amp fuses on the circuit board. all seems to be working fine right now.
Thanks for posting the results!

And BTW, welcome to the forum!
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Old 05-17-2021, 09:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homeward View Post
it is a 2017 19 ft flying cloud.
I replace the converter, old one had something lose inside, rattled around when I turned it over. The new converter fixed the problem after I replaced both 30 amp fuses on the circuit board. all seems to be working fine right now.
Hi

The "loose inside" likely was a voltage regulator with a sheet metal heatsink on it. If it's not quite tied down when the manufacture the converter, it breaks off. Once the regulator is gone, the converter is dead meat.

I have data on this ....

Bob
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