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Old 05-12-2021, 03:49 PM   #1
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battery not charging on shore power

any suggestions for fixing battery not charging on shore power, is it power converter or what other issues could cause this?
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Old 05-12-2021, 04:11 PM   #2
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We could help, but you need to give us some information on the unit you have! Year, model, and type of batteries help a lot. Type of converter you have if it's an older unit. The more information we have, the easier to help you!!!
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Old 05-12-2021, 04:13 PM   #3
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There are a number of things that can cause it.

There are usually some big fuses either in the chassis of your converter-charger or in the lines to the battery (no info on what trailer you have so I couldn't guess where, but there should be fuses there which aren't necessarily readily visible in your fuse block)

Are you sure your converter is putting out 12v? If not, is it receiving 120v on shore power?

If the converter IS putting out 12v, in some years Airstream wired up the store/use switch in a way that takes the battery out of the circuit so you're not continually charging it in "store" even if you're plugged in... some years, the battery gets charged anytime you're plugged in.

Some high-end 80s trailers had a shutoff switch for the converter. If you have one, someone might have flipped the switch wondering what it does...

Batteries can also die in ways that keep them from taking a charge, though usually that'll become apparent pretty quickly (sulfur smells, hot battery case, etc.)
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Old 05-12-2021, 04:23 PM   #4
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If the converter IS putting out 12v, in some years Airstream wired up the store/use switch in a way that takes the battery out of the circuit so you're not continually charging it in "store" even if you're plugged in... some years, the battery gets charged anytime you're plugged in.
Adding to that, the red light next to the Use / Store switch is an indicator of the presence of 12 VDC, not necessarily that your batteries are being charged or which way the Use / Store switch is set. When connected to shore power this light will be red/lit. When not on shore power this light will be red only if the switch is in Use.

This was very confusing to me when I got our AS. Again, AS year, model and any additional information would be helpful.
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Old 05-13-2021, 09:47 AM   #5
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USE/STORE Confuser Switch

My thoughts, exactly. That USE/STORE Confuser Switch is likely at least part of the problem. It just makes so much sense to have a single LED that indicates the presence of 12 V, whether that 12 V comes from the converter/charger or the battery. Brilliant, that.

NOT!!!
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Old 05-13-2021, 10:18 AM   #6
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Hi

Grab your multimeter and see what's what. Measure the voltage at the battery post with shore power disconnected. Plug in shore power and see if the battery voltage goes up. If it does, then the converter is doing *something*. If it does not, check the converter output. If it goes up and the battery does not, then you have a fuse / switch / wire / connector / disconnect relay / ..... in there that is making trouble. If the converter voltage doesn't go up at the converter, check for shore power into the converter and the fuses on the converter.

Best guess, your 1984 Univolt is past it's use by date and should be replaced ...

Bob
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Old 05-13-2021, 05:18 PM   #7
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Had same problem was a nightmare

I had to respond to this one as I have just spent 8 months getting this fixed. August came back from trip to Yellowstone with trailer not charging on shore power. Still charged on solar. Took it to a local RV place they said bad inverter/converter/charger. Took them 5 months to get a new one and install it. Got it home same problem existed. Took it back. They say new unit bad as well and will have to go thru warranty on new unit. Stopped answering my phone calls. My neighbor, electrician looked at it and went “back to basics” found disconnected wire at the inlet plug into the trailer. Now working fine. When no charge happened also noted that AC didn’t work. Should have been a clue. Trailer didn’t know it was plugged in. I tried changing old power cord in hopes that was the problem. Now I have to question if inverter/converter/charger was really bad in the first place. $3,500 later (I changed out the #4 7 year old AGM batteries as well and switched to #3 Lithium batteries since I had to get a new system anyway). I’d start at the cord and inlet plug first before jumping to the more expensive pieces possibly needing replacement.
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Old 05-13-2021, 06:13 PM   #8
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I guess the OP solved the problem, since he never returned!!
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Old 05-14-2021, 07:05 AM   #9
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I guess the OP solved the problem, since he never returned!!
Hi

Or we scared them away ...

Bob
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Old 05-16-2021, 06:02 AM   #10
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We could help, but you need to give us some information on the unit you have! Year, model, and type of batteries help a lot. Type of converter you have if it's an older unit. The more information we have, the easier to help you!!!
it is a 2017 19 ft flying cloud.
I replace the converter, old one had something lose inside, rattled around when I turned it over. The new converter fixed the problem after I replaced both 30 amp fuses on the circuit board. all seems to be working fine right now.
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Old 05-16-2021, 06:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homeward View Post
it is a 2017 19 ft flying cloud.
I replace the converter, old one had something lose inside, rattled around when I turned it over. The new converter fixed the problem after I replaced both 30 amp fuses on the circuit board. all seems to be working fine right now.
Thanks for posting the results!

And BTW, welcome to the forum!
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Old 05-17-2021, 09:04 AM   #12
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it is a 2017 19 ft flying cloud.
I replace the converter, old one had something lose inside, rattled around when I turned it over. The new converter fixed the problem after I replaced both 30 amp fuses on the circuit board. all seems to be working fine right now.
Hi

The "loose inside" likely was a voltage regulator with a sheet metal heatsink on it. If it's not quite tied down when the manufacture the converter, it breaks off. Once the regulator is gone, the converter is dead meat.

I have data on this ....

Bob
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Old 01-16-2024, 03:57 PM   #13
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I know this is an old post, but it is a new problem to me. My 2019 25' Airstream International Serenity FBT. It has a Zamp solar controller. On shore power it is not charging. It charges with solar, though. In reading the responses, first question I have is where is the converter? Where are the fuses to it? On the fuse panel, it says there is a 30amp main, and next to that is 20amp AC and next to that is the 20amp converter. I don't see any other fuses that are labeled converter. There is another one labeled inverter. And under the front street side storage compartment, there are some wires that protrude into the storage compartment, but most of the electrical stuff appears to be under the street side bed paneling. Are there any fuses there? There are also fuses attached to the battery. A big clear one on the positive post, and an inline yellow fuse holder leading to the other battery positive. The battery disconnect is "On" and I have a red light. The power cord has a red light on it as well. And on the Zamp control panel, the red "power" light is flashing. Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 01-16-2024, 04:18 PM   #14
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I know this is an old post, but it is a new problem to me. My 2019 25' Airstream International Serenity FBT. It has a Zamp solar controller. On shore power it is not charging. It charges with solar, though. In reading the responses, first question I have is where is the converter? Where are the fuses to it? On the fuse panel, it says there is a 30amp main, and next to that is 20amp AC and next to that is the 20amp converter. I don't see any other fuses that are labeled converter. There is another one labeled inverter. And under the front street side storage compartment, there are some wires that protrude into the storage compartment, but most of the electrical stuff appears to be under the street side bed paneling. Are there any fuses there? There are also fuses attached to the battery. A big clear one on the positive post, and an inline yellow fuse holder leading to the other battery positive. The battery disconnect is "On" and I have a red light. The power cord has a red light on it as well. And on the Zamp control panel, the red "power" light is flashing. Any help would be appreciated!
OK... the things you're calling "fuses in the fuse panel" are in fact the 120v breakers in the breaker panel based on the labels you listed. There is also a 12v fuse panel, probably some where near the breaker panel, and it'll have automotive-style removable fuses in it.

The converter itself is generally below the breaker panel somewhere (thought not required to be) and has a couple of fuses on the output side at least. One quick test you can do of the converter's operation (even without knowing directly where it is) is to carefully disconnect the ground (-) cable from the batteries while plugged into shore power and see if your 12v equipment works (lights, water pump, roof vent fans, etc.) If not, either you're not getting power TO the converter, or the fuses on the output side are blown, or a connection has come undone or the converter has converted itself into a paperweight.
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Old 01-16-2024, 04:38 PM   #15
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Also, am I confusing the Zamp solar controller with the converter? I have no literature on what kind of converter I have or where it is or how to service/check fuses, etc.
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Old 01-17-2024, 06:50 AM   #16
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Also, am I confusing the Zamp solar controller with the converter? I have no literature on what kind of converter I have or where it is or how to service/check fuses, etc.
Hi

If you do not have the manuals and info for your trailer, you need to get it. Go on the AS site and download it. That will give you a whole lot of information you *should* have to properly use the trailer.

There typically is a second round of downloading once you get those manuals. Things like the stove, furnace, fridge, and A/C all have their own manuals. You download them from their respective manufacturers. The solar controller falls into this category as does the converter / charger.

On any used trailer, you never should *assume* it's all stock. You never know what a PO (or dealer) might have done in the past. It will always be a process of "dive in and see". Best to do that on a nice day parked in the driveway. It's far less stressful than 3AM out in a field somewhere with the lights all out and a bunch of things beeping at you ....

Solar controller (might be Atwood, could be Victron, could be something else ....) goes between the solar panels and the battery. On the older models the stock units were pretty basic. The converter charger goes between shore power and the battery. It charges the battery up. A lot of folks swap them out.

Fun !!!

Bob
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Old 01-17-2024, 05:04 PM   #17
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Another thing…can I charge the batteries with a portable charger without disconnecting them at the battery terminals? Since they’re connected to each other, will they both charge or do I need to disconnect them and charge them separately? Thanks!
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Old 01-17-2024, 07:18 PM   #18
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Good job on the repair and welcome to the forum.
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Old 01-17-2024, 08:31 PM   #19
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Another thing…can I charge the batteries with a portable charger without disconnecting them at the battery terminals? Since they’re connected to each other, will they both charge or do I need to disconnect them and charge them separately? Thanks!
Yes you can charge the batteries with a portable charger without disconnecting them at the battery terminal if they are not charging from the trailer.
They will both charge, you do not need to disconnect them and charge them separately.
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Old 01-18-2024, 10:02 AM   #20
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Another thing…can I charge the batteries with a portable charger without disconnecting them at the battery terminals? Since they’re connected to each other, will they both charge or do I need to disconnect them and charge them separately? Thanks!
Hi

Assuming portable = plug into 120V portable, the simple answer is yes.

More complicated answer is maybe.

Some chargers out there get pretty crazy. There are forums and threads on those forums that dig into this. There are also manufacturer replies / statements in those threads confirming that the crazy stuff is intentional.

If you happen to have a portable charger that runs up to maybe 18V as part of the charge cycle ( yes, some do !!! .... yikes ....), damage to various items in your RV is quite possible. Just how these units *don't* damage the typical car is very unclear to a lot of us. Some of the most popular / biggest selling models out there do this kind of thing. (In their defense, there are indeed reasons they do this ....).

You also would need to match up your charger to your batteries. If you have a lithium upgrade, the charger needs to match up with that.

If portable = a carry around in your pocket battery pack, the simple answer is no. You can't get any useful level of charging that way.

Fun !!!

Bob
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