Battery disconnect 2

[Mollysdad]

I wanted the switch on the curb side, so it was out of the majority of splash from traffic, and to make access easier from the door. This required me to move the Zamp connector to the street side, and I attached it with stainless machine screws. All screws have the round heads inside the battery box and the nuts outside so nothing can chafe on the batteries themselves.

Then I used the negative house cables, since they are longer than the positive red. (the batteries are oriented with the neg forward, so the cables are longer) This allowed the existing cables to reach the switch without any splicing.

For the switch I used 90 degree crimp connectors so the cables would exit straight out of the box.

I made new jumpers using 2 AWG wire and a 16 ton Hydraulic crimper from Amazon. It did an amazing job!
I tried to make the cables just long enough to make routing around the filler caps possible

When reconnecting, I kept all the positive leads on one battery and the negative "master" from the switch on the other battery.
The only time I varied that was my harness for the NoCo Genius charger that I did the reverse with. That helped keep the pile of reds to a minimum.
With the charger, the Zamp wiring, and the Jack leads, it does get busy in there.
I'm now using the Zamp connector to power my TST repeater mounted on the lid of the propane cover.

In mounting the switch box, I used some sealant between the battery box and the switch, and I have a rubber grommet sandwiching both together, so I don't think any water can get in. I also put a bit on sealant around the switch and box.

By using the negative leads, with the switch off, the tongue jack doesn't work, so it reminds me to turn the power on to travel.
I made the converter position 1 while the inverter is position 2, so I can leave either or both off or on.

I spent a long time planning, and as Sinatra sang, "I did it my way".

[AtomicNo13]

Assuming thats a Blue Sea switch, is that water proof? I have one and it was clearly marked as being not suitable for wet or damp installations.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by AtomicNo13

Assuming thats a Blue Sea switch, is that water proof? I have one and it was clearly marked as being not suitable for wet or damp installations.

It's made for marine battery switching on boats, and claims to be waterproof. Obviously, the back is open, but that's inside the battery box and provides some airflow too.

From Blue Sea:

Waterproof – rated IP66 from water projected in powerful jets

[pcskier]

Looks great! My exact setup (that I believe you inspired and helped me with) minus the rubber grommet. The box I used had a round extension into the battery box that I cut to about about 1/4 inch to protect the wires. I haven't connected my wires yet, need to bring home from storage to cut and crimp my main negative and replace with ring terminal. Great point about the hitch jack being off and reminding to turn on for travel...didn't think about that benefit of using the NEG side for the switch.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Looks great! My exact setup (that I believe you inspired and helped me with) minus the rubber grommet. The box I used had a round extension into the battery box that I cut to about about 1/4 inch to protect the wires. I haven't connected my wires yet, need to bring home from storage to cut and crimp my main negative and replace with ring terminal. Great point about the hitch jack being off and reminding to turn on for travel...didn't think about that benefit of using the NEG side for the switch.
Attachment 321795Attachment 321796

I remember. I love bouncing ideas off other people!
You have the slightly smaller "M" switch. There was many a moment I thought I should have gone smaller, but in the end I'm happy with the way it turned out. I like yours too!

I have two posts. I didn't know if I could put so many photos into one long post. So there's Battery and Battery 2.
Unfortunately, they didn't stay together. Maybe the mods can combine them.