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Old 05-26-2006, 09:53 AM   #41
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What about those auto matic peak chargers that sence the battery loosing voltage and apply 2 amp charge to peak it. There charger part is like 3"x3"2" real small one for each battery ? about 50 bucks ...
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Old 05-29-2006, 03:46 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrcrowley
What about those auto matic peak chargers that sence the battery loosing voltage and apply 2 amp charge to peak it. There charger part is like 3"x3"2" real small one for each battery ? about 50 bucks ...
Just realized that wont work sence the univolt powers the twelve volt systems when plugged into a pole ...DOH
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Old 05-29-2006, 05:35 PM   #43
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I did some current measurments before and after my Univolt replacement. Before, the old Univolt required 5 to 6 amps at 120 volts, depending on battery condition. It never went below 5 amps.

With the new Intellicharger, it draws about .3 amps with a fully charged battery. Have not had a chance to draw the battery down, but now it looks like I'll save some coin on my electric bill, as well as generator fuel when boondocking!
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Old 06-04-2006, 12:24 PM   #44
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While we're at it, Pick, when you use your gen when boondocking, do you attach the gen directly to the battery or just plug your coach into it and let the intellipower charge them as it runs.

Thanks - Pat.
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Old 02-17-2007, 11:50 PM   #45
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I would plug the shore power cord into the generator (using an adapter if needed) and let it power the converter/ charger.
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Old 03-07-2007, 03:36 PM   #46
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hi, first time post. same problem,plugged in all the time.My question is that my univiolt is on 24/7 with duel batteries.Is there a way to run without them if i am plugged into shore power? My monthly utility charge is sometimes double that of other units. Disconnecting them i lose my fridge. any help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-13-2007, 09:27 AM   #47
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Triad-Utrad Converter Brochure/manual

Rather complete set for around the late 70's and 80's vintage.

Manuals and other GMC Miscellaneous
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:37 PM   #48
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Identical Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny
What's happening is the when I'm hooked up to city power, the interior lights will come on bright. Than after a while they will slowly dim to nothing.

When I listen to the Uni-volt it sounds as though something 'clicks' and than the lights come back on. As for the battery, I replaced it about 2 months ago and during a recent camping trip we used our generator.

It seems that the uni-volt will keep the lights on and operate everything when I take the battery out of the circuit, but once I put it back in we have the same problem. Could it be a bad battery already?

Mitch
I've been searching these threads for someone who described the issue I'm having with the electrical system in my 1970 Caravel. My lights dim and surge when I am hooked up to shore power and the battery is connected. I also hear the clicking in the univolt that you describe. If the battery is disconnected the power is full and consistent. If I am running solely on the battery, power is consistent as well.

What was the solution to your problem? I was prepared to pull out the univolt and take it to someone who said it was a bad converter, but I thought I would try the forum first. Any insight?

Thanks
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Old 11-27-2007, 09:55 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benyeomans
I've been searching these threads for someone who described the issue I'm having with the electrical system in my 1970 Caravel. My lights dim and surge when I am hooked up to shore power and the battery is connected. I also hear the clicking in the univolt that you describe. If the battery is disconnected the power is full and consistent. If I am running solely on the battery, power is consistent as well.

What was the solution to your problem? I was prepared to pull out the univolt and take it to someone who said it was a bad converter, but I thought I would try the forum first. Any insight?

Thanks
If your converter is original, it is a bad converter by date and design. Just the facts but some will play with them for the nostalgic charge and that is fine, kinda cool but not practical. Sort of like going to the fair and watching the old single cylinder engines on display, facinating. Anyway, take that guy up on his offer. I'll buy it if you can show me why you wish you didn't upgrade.
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:33 PM   #50
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As one who has designed and installed dozens of complicated electrical, battery, and charging systems in expensive yachts, i have tossed my three cents worth in some of these threads about batterys and such; But i remember what a naval engineer said to me: " you can't have to many batterys".
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Old 01-30-2008, 11:15 AM   #51
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Smile Hi All,

I finaly steped up and bought a 60 Amp Intelli-Power Charger.
My question is: There are tree wires under the front couch.
One is white,one is Black is very small and a ground wire which is a copper ground wire. The red wire is no problem but the white and black drive me nuts. Which is the ground for the battery?
I have a schematic for my 1985 Sov. But it does not show how the hook up is for the charger.
Please write or send directly to me at rdworian@comcast.net
Thank you for any help.
Russell in Sunny and cool Tucson Az.
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Old 02-05-2008, 11:34 AM   #52
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Howdy,
Their are two configurations to my DC wiring. The normal Red being positve Black being negative. The other is Black being positve and White being negative. Be careful and check polarity or continuity with an ohm meter if you are ever confused which is which or where things go before energizing. Sure wish I had some time to work on my wiring some more. If you do not already have one, a nice distribution block by your new charger sure makes the install clean Good Luck and have fun!!
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:31 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garry View Post
This is a common problem with the Univolt. I use a battery disconect and from time to time allow the battery to charge as needed , others use a timer between the battery and Univolt do a search and you will find several solutions up to replacing the Univolt.

The disconnect I used is pictured, purchased at a marine store.

Garry
Another solution is a plug in heavy duty timer for appliances have the univolt run like 2 hours a day to keep batteries full but not over charge them . I used this method before I got my 9100 . It did good job .
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:49 AM   #54
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Question for Mrcrowley...

Reading these messages over the past week or so, I'm convinced that a decent upgrade for the Univolt is the INTELI-POWER. I just bought a 9200 (45amp) for my '77. There were no instructions in the box for installation!

Judging by the connection, it looks like a straight forward install. However, the Univolt appears to be wired with multiple DC outputs.

Do you know where I can get install instructions? What did you do with your Univolt after upgrading with your 9100?

Thanks!
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Old 05-30-2009, 09:11 AM   #55
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The original univolt has the DC distribution board attached to it. You must either reuse this board or install a new 12 volt panel. I installed the same unit in my 75 and the installation instructions are very basic. Screw it to the floor, attach the 12 volt output lines and plug it into 120 volts.

Lumatic did a nice modification by mounting the new unit into the shell of the old univolt.
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:38 AM   #56
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More on univolt and shore power

My 1970 31' Airstream is my hunting camper from November through the end of February. I have power and water at camp this year (only had power last several years)!
My old battery was dry as a bone when I pulled it out in March.
I replaced it with a new deep cycle.
After reading and re-reading this topic thread, is it OK to leave the 120 volt shore power plugged in, but disconnect the battery when the trailor is not in use (leaving 120 for the refridgerator)?
I have not measured the voltage output of the univolt - is it adjustable?
many thanks,
Charles Rahm
Dallas, Texas
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:51 AM   #57
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It is not a good idea to leave a lead acid battery to sit for more than a few weeks if you value longest battery life. You need a battery maintainer that will assure a top charge and do something to inhibit sulfation and stratification.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:53 AM   #58
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univolt putting out 17 volts?

Holy smokes. I put a voltmeter on my battery and the reading was 17.2 volts!
I had stuck my head in the service area looking for a water leak and I heard the water in the battery boiling.
This is a 1970 unit with the original Univolt.
Didn't someone say the voltage output is adjustable? I examined the Univolt and didn't see an obvious adjusment.
I disconnected my battery (for obvious reasons) and continued to use my 12 volt lights as needed. Isn't this a no-no?

I am plugged into shore power, 120v.

Thanks,
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:05 AM   #59
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To the best of my knowledge univolts don't have an adjustment and do exactly what you describe if you stay constantly plugged in. Ditch the univolt for an updated converter and these problems will go away. Personally I went with a Inteli-Power but there are others brands. Take a look here. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:22 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasrahm View Post
Holy smokes. I put a voltmeter on my battery and the reading was 17.2 volts!
I had stuck my head in the service area looking for a water leak and I heard the water in the battery boiling.
This is a 1970 unit with the original Univolt.
Didn't someone say the voltage output is adjustable? I examined the Univolt and didn't see an obvious adjusment.
I disconnected my battery (for obvious reasons) and continued to use my 12 volt lights as needed. Isn't this a no-no?

I am plugged into shore power, 120v.

Thanks,
The old style Univolts were subject to failure, when a good power surge took place,

That was coorected many years ago.

Every auto charging system has failures, but when they are very low, that's good.

Airstream's current Univolt, has been in use for a number of years, with a very low failure rate.

Most of the failures you read about, are for the Univolt 5 systems and older.

Andy
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