Batteries removes, what to do with cables?

[steilkurve]

Hey all. Got my new AS today (yay!j. Won’t be using it until the snow melts and weather warms up so I brought the two batteries inside. They’re the BattleBorn lithium upgrade. Couple of questions for you all:

- I will go in my AS regularly and plug it in for power. Is it safe to just let battery cables loose in the box? I of course made sure they didn’t touch. Are there caps I can use for further security?

- BB suggests topping the batteries off and them letting them be for a while. Is that what folks do with their lithiums of do they trickle charge? I got a NOCO 3500 I used with my lead acids (device is lithium compatible).

Thanks!

[field & stream]

Unlike lead acid batteries, the lithium batteries will go for a very long time without losing significant charge — all winter is zero problem. I keep mine inside and never give it a thought.

[OutdoorIdaho]

Originally Posted by steilkurve

- I will go in my AS regularly and plug it in for power. Is it safe to just let battery cables loose in the box? I of course made sure they didn’t touch. Are there caps I can use for further security?

The positive cable should be insulated to prevent any undesirable interaction. A few wraps with electrical tape ought to do it.

[SuperTrouper]

Originally Posted by outdooridaho

the positive cable should be insulated to prevent any undesirable interaction. A few wraps with electrical tape ought to do it.

x2^^^

[richard5933]

Check your manual to be sure that it's okay to run the converter/charger without the batteries connected. Some do okay this way but others require batteries in place. When you plug in for power you're likely running the converter to get the power for lights and such, and you don't want to inadvertently cause problems to the unit down the road.

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by richard5933

Check your manual to be sure that it's okay to run the converter/charger without the batteries connected. Some do okay this way but others require batteries in place. When you plug in for power you're likely running the converter to get the power for lights and such, and you don't want to inadvertently cause problems to the unit down the road.

Good point. Just checked. Seems ok to operate without batteries. Excerpt from manual:

"Although the converter is an excellent battery charger, the converter does not require a battery to be connected to it for proper operation"

That being said, contrary to my previous AS, I was surprised that the Battery Position needs to be on for AC to work in the trailer. Others have seen this?

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by SuperTrouper

x2^^^

Ok. Thanks. Will leave a residue though... Family member suggested neoprene and elastics. Thoughts?

[Silvr_Bullet]

Use good quality 3 M or equivalent electrical tape red for positive, black for negative leads. Never been a problem with residue.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Bringing lithiums "inside" may or may not be needed. They rate them to -20C and it most certainly gets colder than that up where you are ( been there / done that in February many times ... ). The actual chemistry of the batteries is good to at least -45C based on various papers out there. Yes, that's fully charged, but this is the way most folks store LiFePO4 batteries. The chemistry *does* matter. These are not Lithium Ion batteries.

Any battery, regardless of chemistry will self discharge more slowly when it's cold than when it's hot. Yes, a defective battery or one at end of life will do some odd things. We are nowhere near that point on any of the BB's out there. The net result is that most batteries are just fine sitting out in the cold, provided they are charged.

The BB's in our trailer sat for nearly 2 years with nothing being done to them. Charge levels were still fine when we got back to the trailer. Not all of that was in cold weather . We just do a full disconnect and leave them out there. No, it does not get as cold here as it does "up north".

Bubble wrap left over from that package you got last week does a pretty good job of protecting cable ends. Wrap multiple layers on and then secure it however you wish. ( yes you want the tin stuff not the giant version ....). Only the positive lead needs "protection".

Bob

[ITSNO60]

I just use a rubber glove around the cable ends and a miniature bungee to hold the cable if it wants to move where you don't want it to. (I use the dark blue or black heavier mil gloves)

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by steilkurve

Ok. Thanks. Will leave a residue though... Family member suggested neoprene and elastics. Thoughts?

To prevent a residue, place the first few wraps around the terminal end with the sticky side out. Pull it tight so it stays in place. Then you cover the whole thing with a few wraps with the sticky side in. Works like a champ.

There is also a 3M lining tape called Cambric which works well as the first layer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLZI8O_-IAk

[wwitsman]

Over the years after working on dozens of bicycles, I have many inner tubes. So, I put one or two short pieces of tube over both cable ends then some tape to keep them in place. I hate taking tape off of stuff, so this eliminates that activity. Longer sections of tubes are great for securing loads together.

[steilkurve]

Originally Posted by richard5933

To prevent a residue, place the first few wraps around the terminal end with the sticky side out. Pull it tight so it stays in place. Then you cover the whole thing with a few wraps with the sticky side in. Works like a champ.

There is also a 3M lining tape called Cambric which works well as the first layer.

Thanks for the advice. Used your sticky side out trick and it worked like charm. Positive cables now protected!