Batteries Loosing Charge

[Kalidas]

Hello All,
We live full-time in our AS. Plugged in.
So I have been having trouble with the original Atkinson charge controller for a few months now. Intermittent clicking on and off. Have been meaning to upgrade for the past 2 months. but....
While being plugged in there never seemed to be a problem with the batteries. Lifeline AGM's 5.5 yrs old
Last week, when we were boondocking, the batteries weren't charging. Even when I had the AS plugged into the genie.
Batteries were slowly getting drawn down.
Once we got back home, and plugged back into shore power, still not charging.
Checked all the wiring, seemed fine.
Charge controller continued to click intermittently.
Decided to order new charge controller and pick up new batteries.
Replaced with the same Lifeline AGM's and an Epever Triron 4210 charge controller.
Wired everything up and things are running great.
BUT....
Batteries are still not charging.
What am I missing?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[ROBERT CROSS]

The 'charge controller' does not supply the juice to charge the batts.

Has the circuit breaker for the converter/charger tripped?

Good Luck...

Bob
🇺🇸

[SeaLevel]

It looks like the Epever Triron 4210 is a solar charge controller, which isn't related to what charges the batteries when you are plugged into shore power or your generator. As mentioned, check your converter/charger - probably part of where the breakers and fuses are located.

[Kalidas]

I have checked all fuses and breakers.
The PV panels are now charging the batteries, but it still doesn't look like the batteries are pulling any power from the shore power.
Though I am able to run all electrically from the shore power.

[Kalidas]

I have also checked the battery terminals. Everything is tight

[ROBERT CROSS]

What are the readings on the Monitor?

Bob
🇺🇸


System on solar....................System on SP

[Kalidas]

Not sure if this is the way to upload pics

[Kalidas]

Oops....guys I need to rotate the pics...
Sorry

[Kalidas]

Is it possible that the converter is shot?

[Kalidas]

We limped through the weekend. Hopefully be able to talk with a professional in the morning.
Batteries being kept topped up with solar during the day, and trickle changed overnight.

[Bdinla]

Originally Posted by Kalidas

We limped through the weekend. Hopefully be able to talk with a professional in the morning.
Batteries being kept topped up with solar during the day, and trickle changed overnight.

@Kalidas,
I hope you don't mind my piggy-backing on your thread -- I'm having much the same problem, although I don't have your more sophisticated monitoring capability. Everything I have read suggests that the Parallax electronic power converter has failed (there are no blown fuses, etc.)

In addition to shore power not recharging our batteries (two AGMs), our ZAMP Solar Controller monitor shows that the two 100w flex solar panels we have are no longer providing power to the batteries either. I currently have the batteries on a trickle charge, but with no apparent improvement to the charge level. (Unfortunatelly, I'm so electronically challenged that I'm not even sure I'e connected the trickle charger properly to the batteries.

If you are able to reach a professional today, or in the near future, I hope you will post your findings on this thread. I have called a couple of Airstream service centers as well, but have not yet received a callback.

[Ray Eklund]

Bdinia: Flexible Solar Panel Failed after Three Years on my RV

Very good explanation and way to test. Maybe this video and comments can help. I found it interesting and do not have flexible panels, but the Airstream Dealer had them on display.

The flexible attached directly to the roof of our Airstreams will not permit air to flow underneath to cool... from reading some responses on this Thread. I was curious and going to finish reading this well done post with explanations while in the process of discovering the Panel was Bad.

[Luigi123]

My AGM batteries failed me in two years as of today on my 2018 30'Serenity. I heard the factory has a bundle of aged batteries, I guess my $93,000 trailer was free, the real cost was the batteries- no worries caught the issue at home. Just another notch on the report card for decisions down the road.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Luigi123

My AGM batteries failed me in two years as of today on my 2018 30'Serenity. I heard the factory has a bundle of aged batteries, I guess my $93,000 trailer was free, the real cost was the batteries- no worries caught the issue at home. Just another notch on the report card for decisions down the road.

^
That IS unusual.
What brand AGM's? Our Lifelines lasted 11yrs.
Most AS battery failures can be traced back to the converters being used. The Parallax in Cloudsplitter cooked two pair of Interstates. The batts could not tolerate long charge cycles on shore power without human intervention.
Even the 'upgraded' converters being used in the newer AS's seem to have left something on the table.

Upgrading the P-Lax was the first upgrade we did in the 2nd year of Stream'n. Not really all that expensive for the POM it provides. The IOTA that replaced the P-Lax lasted 12yrs. (until the Lithium upgrade.)



Bob
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[docflyboy]

I've got an '05 Safari with the original Parallax converter. I had a low voltage situation when I first camped in March of this year, and my heater wouldn't fire, that I think was related to the sail switch and low voltage. I replaced the batteries and the heater fired up both off shore power and on. Then I got caught in an early winter cold snap on the last trip out and no heater once again. I checked the heavy gauge leads in the converter that must run to the battery cut-off circuit, and I was only in the 12.4V range on shore power, with batteries that were only about 6 months old. I keep it plugged in all the time, but can tell that the power jack on the tongue tells the story of battery charge before much else does. Question: does this converter have a charge, float and maintain circuit, or should it be upgraded to a more modern converter? Any other diagnosing in order before a change or upgrade?

[Acheron2010]

I might be having a similar issue. 2019 FC26. Found my OEM AGM batteries were in the 11.3 range, not charging, neither solar nor shore. Replaced the batteries today, and on shore power, in the shade, battery voltage at 12.6 and steady. All breakers and inline fuses ok. I was anticipating 13+ volts from the battery charger. I am unsure how to troubleshoot from here.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by docflyboy

I've got an '05 Safari with the original Parallax converter. I had a low voltage situation when I first camped in March of this year, and my heater wouldn't fire, that I think was related to the sail switch and low voltage. I replaced the batteries and the heater fired up both off shore power and on. Then I got caught in an early winter cold snap on the last trip out and no heater once again. I checked the heavy gauge leads in the converter that must run to the battery cut-off circuit, and I was only in the 12.4V range on shore power, with batteries that were only about 6 months old. I keep it plugged in all the time, but can tell that the power jack on the tongue tells the story of battery charge before much else does. Question: does this converter have a charge, float and maintain circuit, or should it be upgraded to a more modern converter? Any other diagnosing in order before a change or upgrade?

Get rid of the P-LAX....It's a battery burner, it ruined 4 Interstates when "Cloudsplitter" was new. Replacing it was our first major upgrade
If you had it plugged in 24/7, might as well get new batteries also.
Call Randy at Best Converter, we got our IOTA DLS from him. A modern 3 or 4 stage unit will prevent battery burn out.

Bob
🇺🇸

[docflyboy]

Robert-thank you. My thoughts exactly. I did find a good youtube video on assessing the problem. I'm going to take it apart this weekend and see if the breaker panel and the converter are separate or not. Jerry