Bambi 19CB - What aftermarket smart-charger are you using?

[JJTX]

The new charge unit arrived today, Early at that.

It goes in on Wednesday morning .

[JJTX]

The installation is complete.

I didn't let the smoke out.

And it took me about an hour. Little more. As I'm likely more careful and spend a little time cleaning up the dust/dirt the MFG left behind. Plus, it was still hot at 7am so no hurry. But you should figure about an hour if you work slow and don't like to break things.


There will be several posts to this thread with one or two photos in each post. It will be easier to keep track of what photos I Am referring to.

In this photo, the FACTORY UNIT is disconnected and ready to pull out.

Note the top right green DC board. The top right big fat WHITE WIRE is the Negative to the trailer. The one under it, was the one that connected to the charger unit I disconnected and is where you put the new WHITE wire.

The second screw was extremely tight. I had to use a BIG HUGE screwdriver to get torque I needed. Don't attempt with a small screwdriver as you won't break it free.

The TOP white screw was what I would call " LOOSE ". It barely was tight at all and I'm surprised it didnt arc when in use!

If you have a 2018+ BAMBI 19, check this immediately and snug it down!

The three wires on the left are the ground on the left, top is the neutral, and the black wire went to the AC breaker second from the top. These wires were pretty snug as I would expect.

I could not get the factory wires out from behind the green circuit board without releasing the tab on the bottom of it and moving it away from the factory tab/mounts. Theres just not enough room.

The two screws on the charger on the bottom come out and you slide the whole thing out straight. Dont rock it or pick it up as it's held down by a tounge/groove type mount. Slide it straight out. More on that in a couple more posts, with photo.

The PHOTO ON THE RIGHT is the factory charger.

[JJTX]

Here you can see the new charger. The charger goes in with the heat sink to the rear of the power center unlike the factory one. In this picture you can see the mounting bar is backwards. Before I Tried to put it in, I looked twice and realized it was wrong.

The directions in these are printed in black and white, and the photos are almost useless and I couldn't see which way it was mounted. After looking at it again I found the holes on the bottom of the plastic mount where the tabs poke through.

The second photo on the right, shows the new mounting bar installed correctly with the little plastic locking tabs pointing outward.

[JJTX]

Here, you can see the inside of the power center where the charger mounts.

The screwdriver points at the grooves where the new charger slides in to lock it in place. Make sure you are lined up with locked into these on the left and right side.

I had to shine a flashlight into the side to see with the charger installed to verify it.

Again you can see the properly mounted bracket with the factory screws in the front.

[JJTX]

The new charger is installed and snapped into the mounting bracket in the left side picture.

The tabs just poke through and did need a little bit of a push to get it to lock in, which is good in my opinion. It does not move.

Again make sure the tabs in the back are in the slots/rails before you try to snap it in.

In the second photo on the right, this is my only negative critique of this charger brand.

The gauge of the wire is noticeably smaller than the factory charger. The wires from the right are the new charger. On the ground is the factory one.

I don't know if this is real relevant or not, but I do know that, bigger wires carry bigger loads.

I can only assume that the MFG knows more than I do about it and what size wires are really needed.

[JJTX]

Here you can see it installed with all the wires in place and everything is secured and ready to roll. Sorry the photo is a little soft on focus. It was hot/dark and I was tire of sweating.

You can see here where I routed the LED indicator. Down through the primary wire hole on the right side under the green board and across to the connector on the charger.

All the wires on the left side are in place as well. and the cover is ready to go back on.

[JJTX]

The LED wire comes out where the fuses are. Plenty of slack for normal fuse maintenance as well.

The LED wire/indicator rests up against the factory panel's smoked screen. I'm not real sure why its done this way. There must be another model that has LED indicators that you can see through the Plexiglas so that gave me an idea here. I just set it behind it and close it up and you can see it from the outside when its closed.

Another photo with light shows the LED behind the glass with a flashlight and one in normal light.

[JJTX]

The last photo is from by the door, and the LED indicator.

Overall it was not a hard thing to do. You just have to take your time and make sure you disconnect power and batteries before you start messing with it or your gonna zap yourself.

Looking forward to NOT destroying/boiling my batteries!

Again for reference:

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4655M...ote_p_616.html

This is the PD4655MBA Wildkat 55AMP unit that replaces the WFCO 8955 factory installed.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by JJTX

http://www.bestconverter.com/4600-se...its_c_133.html

I like the desulfication option the 4600 series upgrade kits have and I am leaning towards that option.
My main question is if this part is all I need. I was expecting to have to replace more than just this one component.

The problem I am having reading this website is I dont know what One I have to have. Other than the Lithium option that I dont need I'm not sure what the difference is between the MBA WILDKAT and the 655V because theres a 4 dollar difference in cost..........

But I think the 4655MBA Wildcat is the one I want..............Since I have the WF 8955PEC factory installed.
I put an order in for the 4655MBA today. I think its the right one, and has a couple extra features that were worth the extra cash.

I own the Wildcat, which has a slightly different board layout (two filter capacitors, instead of one). IIRC, both have a DP switch for Lithium, and seem quite similar in other respects (21-hour anti-sulfation for SLA, Charge Wizard, really quiet dual fans, and etc.). What extra features did the 4655MBA turn out to have?

Your old WFCO might have included a 3-way connector to put the Convert and a "normal" 120V downstream wire (black, hot) under a single Circuit Breaker. For my Upgrade, I replaced that 3-way with a short segment of #12 black (Romex style), to the downstream 120V black and the PD Converter 120V input (skinny black) with one of these vibration-proof, spring loaded wire nuts: https://www.amazon.com/WAGO-222-413-...dp/B07CN59ZX3/

Other than wire + wire strippers + some kind of nut to replace that part, al you will need are screwdrivers (Flat-Head plus Phillips, for removing the cover and the bolted down WFCO original Converter Section).

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by rickst29

I own the Wildcat, which has a slightly different board layout (two filter capacitors, instead of one). IIRC, both have a DP switch for Lithium, and seem quite similar in other respects (21-hour anti-sulfation for SLA, Charge Wizard, really quiet dual fans, and etc.). What extra features did the 4655MBA turn out to have?

Your old WFCO might have included a 3-way connector to put the Convert and a "normal" 120V downstream wire (black, hot) under a single Circuit Breaker. For my Upgrade, I replaced that 3-way with a short segment of #12 black (Romex style), to the downstream 120V black and the PD Converter 120V input (skinny black) with one of these vibration-proof, spring loaded wire nuts: https://www.amazon.com/WAGO-222-413-...dp/B07CN59ZX3/

Other than wire + wire strippers + some kind of nut to replace that part, al you will need are screwdrivers (Flat-Head plus Phillips, for removing the cover and the bolted down WFCO original Converter Section).

The MBA just means main-board-assembly. It does not have the Lithium option, and otherwise it is the same as the L version which means Lithium and as far as I know only has less features, which is the lack of lithium charge capability.

It went in rather easily, though some paying attention is required =D

[Posse96]

Originally Posted by waninae39

we replaced our battery with a lion battery
we added solar

we then updated with a few victron parts including the MPPT solar controller and the mutiplus inverter converter

we can now monitor system from on our phones or off the iNet

thisis our DC schematic

Luv Luv Luv. I'm heading that way myself. I currently have 2016 19FC. I upgraded the batteries 2 years back from the crappy Interstate to (2) 6V Trojans; after going through (4) 12V Interstate. Installed the Zamp 100W expandable solar and a new PD Inverter with smart charger. Next will be Lithion Ion, but I'm waiting until next year; prices expected to drop in half as there are numerous Lith battery companies now.

[rickst29]

Some USA distributors (including AIMS and Renogy) are selling Chinese-Built Batteries. I think that Renogy's 150Ah LiFePO4 is very good, and Renogy support is also very good. But for future price trends, these batteries are greatly affected by Tariffs on Chinese goods - and the possibility of Tariffs being "clamped down" on shipments from Intermediate countries (Vietnam, France, and etc.).

Some other batteries use China-built cells, but do the assembly (4 or 8 cells, combined with a BMS) in the USA. They may be affected differently. I do not know if Trojan Cells (the two "Trillium" ) are USA-built, or whether Trojan sources them from elsewhere. I suspect that they are sourced elsewhere. They are outstanding batteries.

I think that a 50% price drop in LiFePO4 batteries, in the next year, is very unlikely.

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by JJTX

As a follow up for information I have a WFCO WF-8955PEC-J 55A.

So I will need a 55A or better unit or rated replacement part upgrade. etc

For the boondocker series :

http://www.bestconverter.com/BD-1255...ent_p_522.html


This seems to be the upgrade I need for the smart-charger.

Get the 55A progressive from best converters with the LFP capability in case you ever go lithium.

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

Get the 55A progressive from best converters with the LFP capability in case you ever go lithium.

I already got the Wildkat 55MBA and installed it.

Thats what all the photos I posted was about.

I would never have any reason to use lithium.

[Fair_Enough]

Sorry I didn’t catch you have already got what you want and need but wondered what others are doing.

I didn’t need the LFP option either since I was never going LFP. Then I did. When Renogy drop the price on their 170 Ah from $1499 to $980 I bought 2. Haven’t needed the second one yet, to be honest.

Happy trails,
Clint

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

Sorry I didn’t catch you have already got what you want and need but wondered what others are doing.

I didn’t need the LFP option either since I was never going LFP. Then I did. When Renogy drop the price on their 170 Ah from $1499 to $980 I bought 2. Haven’t needed the second one yet, to be honest.

Happy trails,
Clint

No problem. But theres no way I would spend 1000$ on batteries. I simply have no use for it and can't imagine being anywhere we would be long enough to use them. I have a generator for power if I need it and a nice solar panel is in my wish list for next year when we do some dry camping.

LION Batteries are still extremely expensive. I'll need tires for my truck before batteries =D With this charger, I should get several good years out of the factory/stock interstate ones I got now.

[farafield]

So is a camper from the factory in danger of getting fried when plugged into shore power for long (whatever that means) periods of time? What am I missing here?

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by farafield

So is a camper from the factory in danger of getting fried when plugged into shore power for long (whatever that means) periods of time? What am I missing here?

The batteries will be damaged if subjected to prolonged over charging by a dumb-charger.

A long period of time means any time after the batteries have reached their charge capacity and it continues to be charged at the rate a factory chargers output is.

[farafield]

Originally Posted by JJTX

The batteries will be damaged if subjected to prolonged over charging by a dumb-charger.

A long period of time means any time after the batteries have reached their charge capacity and it continues to be charged at the rate a factory chargers output is.

Thank you for your response! So you're saying that the built in charger is a dumb charger? Yikes!

[rmkrum]

Some of them are. The latest Airstreams have a better one, but you still need to Keep a close eye on battery water levels in any case.

My OEM 2007 charger will kill unattended batteries in 4-6 months by boiling them dry.