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Old 06-23-2013, 04:09 AM   #1
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1969 27' Overlander
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Ammeter wiring

I have a 69 Overlander and made the swap of the original Univolt to a 45 amp Powermaxx Boondocker. I have a black and a red wire that were both bolted to what I think was a shunt (looks like a stip of metal with bolts on either end) in the original fuse block that was integrated in the front of the Univolt and I was curious if there was a way to hook these up to the new FB-9 fuse panel I installed? It's not a critical item since I'll eventually install a more accurate battery meter but I thought it would be nice to have it operational since most of our unit has been kept as original as possible.
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:48 AM   #2
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The shunt should be wired in series with the negative battery cable. Then the red and black wires connect to the shunt via the small screws, polarity is important. Without pics it is difficult to determine what you have to work with.
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:29 PM   #3
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Got it. That's exactly how it appeared in the original fuse block in the Univolt. Not sure if I'll end up working on it before our trip. Eventually I'd like to have a more accurate battery monitor but my hand held meter will have to do for now. Thanks!
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:05 PM   #4
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If you look in my images (in my profile) you can see a picture of what I did with mine. the box is an old Makita drill box and with the lid shut, it's all tucked away.....Phil.
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:31 AM   #5
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Nice work and thanks for the pic! I see you're using the old fuse panel for the battery side too-what converter did you switch to? I was told by Randy@ bestconverter that the Powermaxx Boondocker I just bought didn't need the 40 amp fuses to the batteries which surprised me. Everything works fine but I'm still a little skeptical about not having the batteries fused.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:53 AM   #6
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It was the Intellipower 9270, admittedly overkill but better too much than not enough. Randy may be right about the fuses, but Murphy is always close to me and they were right there, so I put both in. Both pos. and neg. feeds from the battery are fused. So far the whole rig has worked well given the restrictions of the power center's gauges.....Phil.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayandre View Post
Nice work and thanks for the pic! I see you're using the old fuse panel for the battery side too-what converter did you switch to? I was told by Randy@ bestconverter that the Powermaxx Boondocker I just bought didn't need the 40 amp fuses to the batteries which surprised me. Everything works fine but I'm still a little skeptical about not having the batteries fused.
The Powermax converters have a pair of big fuses built in (at least mine does.) All the trailer circuits are fused through the block or have an inline fuse (like the power jack) so the only thing not protected would be the cables from the converter to the battery that connect at the fuse block. I think the difference is just that the big fuses that isolate the converter are separated from the rest of the fuses that protect the individual circuits.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:12 PM   #8
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Yes, the Powermax I bought does have a pair of fuses so maybe it's OK not to fuse the trailer and car battery cables? Seems to run really well although I've only tested for short periods. I noticed a big improvement in light output inside the trailer-all the 12v lights are much brighter than with the old Univolt-that's where we really see how much that old converter was struggling to keep up.
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