Airstream Electrical 101 for Non-Electricians

[TimJ]

Hi all,

I purchased a 1969 Ambassador that I'm starting to refurb for family camping trips.

I have never camped in a trailer with a power system, so I am in need of a good thread or website that can help me (I'm not an electrician) understand the electrical system for a 1969 Airstream, including when to flip this or that switch.

Some initial questions I have are what batteries to buy for a week of no hookups? what is the difference between generators, inverters, and converters, and do I need them? What charges my batteries when I am without hookups for a week? Where to get a replacement control panel as the original one (see pic) shows no signs of life when the trailer is plugged in.

I've attached a few pics of the existing electrical components. (Not sure why but the last 2 pics are upside down) I'm hoping to get this bird up and running for a week in Yosemite this June. Yikes!!

Thanks for any input!!

[markdoane]

The 12 Volt Side Of Life is a good place to start. Not specific to Airstreams, but then nothing electric really is.

[68 TWind]

You will want to replace that old Univolt converter before you buy a new battery.
It is 40+ y/o and the new computer controlled converters will get you the most life from your battery.
Search the forums for specific questions as most have been answered here many times over the years. Also, I 2nd the recommendation on the book "12Volt ….."

[HowieE]

Your trailer has 2 electrical systems.

The 110 volt AC system powers the convertor, I say convertor because you want one rather than the old invertor, that charges your batteries and any 110 volt receptacles that may be there. Depending on your frig it may also be powered by 110AC when switched to that mode.

Nothing charges your batteries while boon-docking unless you have a generator or solar. A week will be stretching it on batteries. If you intend on weekly trips you want to install solar to charge the batteries.

The 12 volt DC system powers the 12 volt lights, the frig control board, heater fan, and water pump. This is the system you will be using, off your batteries, while boon-docking.

Trailer batteries are not that easy to manage and go bad at a much faster rate than if in your car. Until you get used to things just buy them at Wal Mart. You can always find replacement 7 days a week and less than 265 miles away and they honor the warranty.

[TimJ]

Aah, the 12 volt website is just what I needed.

Very much appreciate the insight about replacing the old converter I hadn't planned to since it does work, but hadnt realized newer ones affect battery life.

And thanks for the advice about Walmart batteries. Definitely great advice since I am just starting out.

Many Thanks!!

[AWCHIEF]

Good info here,

http://wbcci.org/component/jdownload...v-ii-batteries

[Nuvite-F]

Welcome to the forums, and to Airstreaming!

I will add my two cents worth in answer to some of your questions not previously addressed. . .

Originally Posted by TimJ

Some initial questions I have are what batteries to buy for a week of no hookups?

The energy consumption will depend on what things you are operating off the battery, but running on the batteries without hookups for a week is a tall order. [The commony used term is "boondocking"] The stock battery (or batteries) that the trailer is equipped with have enough capacity for a day or two at most. Serious boondockers commonly replace the standard batteries with large arrays of batteries and/or exotic battery technologies like lithium.

What charges my batteries when I am without hookups for a week?

Basically the two options are solar panels or a gas powered generator. Nowadays small RV generators like the Honda EU series are very quiet and will charge your batteries in an hour or two per day. No additional electronics are required, you just plug the trailer electric cord into the generator.

The other option is solar panels (either mounted on the roof or set up externally). Enough solar panel capacity for serious boondocking is pretty expensive (thousands of dollars) and some additional electronics are required in the form of a solar power controller to connect the panels to the batteries. I think I would recommend starting out with a small generator and then going to solar panels later after you get some experience boondocking.

By all means do replace the old Univolt with a modern electronic convertor which will take better care of your batteries. (And eliminate at least 50 pounds of weight!)

The other thing you can do to greatly reduce the drain on the batteries is to replace all the 12 Volt incandescent bulbs in the trailer with LED equivalents which put out just as much light on about 10% of the power. Here's one source: http://led4rv.com/

[Redleger]

Look at this site for inverter and charge controllers

http://www.progressivedyn.com/rv_products.html

This is just one of many manufactures for these products.

I've been dealing with the same situation with our 69 Overlander so feel free to email me directly but here is where I'd start.

1) get any "marine/rv" battery for the best price you can - expect that this will be a throw away test unit.

2) hook it up and use a standard 12v tester that you can get at any auto store - this device looks like a needle with a light bulb and a alligator clip on a lead running from it. Connect the clip to ground then use the point to probe the hot side, it you get a light that circuit is good.

3) Once you've done these two thing you can go inside and start to turn lights on and off one at a time. Have known good lights bulbs with you.

4) these steps should help you narrow down how good or bad your situation is.

Lastly someone earlier said that you'll need solar for boon docking for a week. You can use a generator as well to recharge your batteries - if that wasn't obvious to you from their post. Take your time and get the book "Managing 12 volts" from Harold Barre.

Did anyone give you pointers to sites for parts if not here are a few
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/
http://airstreamsupply.com/index.php?route=common/home
http://www.inlandrv.com/
http://vintageairstream.com/
http://www.bestconverter.com/

[coasttocoast]

You need to be plugged into the grid. I carry one of these for when I have to stay in a parking lot or where a plug in is unavailable: Yamaha EF2000iSv2, 1600 Running Watts/2000 Starting Watts, Gas Powered Portable Inverter, CARB Compliant. It will charge my batteries and run lights, etc. It will not, however, power my AC. I may buy another Yamaha EF2000iSv2 for summer trips and get this: Yamaha ACC-0SS55-70-0​1 Sidewinder Parallel Cable 30AMP RV. Having to carry an external generator is not ideal, but it works, and it's better than losing power. I also have 300 watts of solar on the roof.

[waninae39]

as well if you need to replace the batteries, consider getting the Lithium cells.
go through the electrical section on this site as there is ton of info there.

Over a 4-6 year period the lithium cells are cheaper or break even
don't be scared by their initial prices as the total life time cost is the deciding factor

[NY24]

Get Mike Sokol's book "No Shock Zone"

https://www.amazon.com/No~Shock~Zone.../dp/B00L2DWBD8


https://www.google.com/search?q=nosh...hrome&ie=UTF-8