Advice on Lithium Upgrade

[JA15830]

Hello All,

I am about to purchase a pair of Renogy 100AH lithium batteries (RBT100LFP12-BT-US) to put into our 2022 Basecamp 20x. I would very much appreciate it if those of you with a lot more knowledge about these things would weigh in on my plan.

• Controller - I have a Victron 150/35 MPPT controller - rotate the dial to position 7
• Power Center - Progressive Dynamics PD400 series - Slide the Output Mode Switch to LI
• Remove the battery box lid - not necessary for LI batteries (or the AGM batteries I currently have.
• Remove or alter the lower part of the battery box to allow the new batteris to fit. They are about an inch longer than the AGMs.

We rarely have the seven way plug attached to the truck while the truck is off, and I am pretty sure that the Ford electrical system isolates the seven way plug from the trailer automatically. So, I am not concerned about the truck battery being drained.

I found a 10% off coupon for the batteries which has tipped the scale towards this upgrade. There are so many or you out there with a great deal of knowledge. I hope to prevent any unanticipated problems.

Thanks in advance for your comments, suggestions, and corrections.

[jnm30327]

Rather than changing the battery box to make the batteries fit, you might try rotating the new batteries 90 degrees. I was able to make 2 AGM Lifeline batteries fit this way in a compartment that held the original Interstate batteries. I have a 2018 27FB Flying Cloud so my battery box may not be the same as yours.

[JA15830]

Originally Posted by jnm30327

Rather than changing the battery box to make the batteries fit, you might try rotating the new batteries 90 degrees. I was able to make 2 AGM Lifeline batteries fit this way in a compartment that held the original Interstate batteries. I have a 2018 27FB Flying Cloud so my battery box may not be the same as yours.

Thanks for the input. I took a look. It's pretty close, so it might work to rotate the orientation but it is hard to get an accurate measure of the bottom of the box without pulling the batteries.

[richard5933]

I'm not sure that removing the battery box lid is a good idea, aside from the obvious problem of letting in sand, dirt, road debris, moisture, etc, it puts your batteries out there for everyone to see and invite possible problems. Even if you have to raise the lid to accommodate the batteries, I'd find a way to keep them under cover.

[Donnh]

Thanks for posting. I'm looking at doing the exact upgrade on my Basecamp 20X. I have the same controller. Please let me know how it works out.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Regardless of what your truck might or might not do to isolate the charge wire on the 7 pin, you really should either disconnect it or put in a DC/DC converter. Noting good can come from leaving it hooked up ( = the batteries will not charge ). Unhooking it costs nothing but your DIY time.

Bob

[1StreamDream]

I don’t have a basecamp so I can’t offer specifics, but I suggest you go ahead and find the termination point for the “charge” wire in the 7 way harness, it is in your electrical bay somewhere, and I would remove it from the +12vdc bus in the basecamp. Be sure to cover it well, I did this in my 25’ flying cloud, to keep the electrical of the trailer (lithium batteries) separate from my tow vehicle. I used a wire nut, and some electrical tape. You won’t be losing anything, and you will gain the protection of depleting your trailer batteries while plugged in to your tow vehicle. If you want the tow vehicle to charge those lithiums (even if only trickle charge), you will need a dc-dc converter/charger to boost the voltage up above the lithium threshold.

[Air2Dream]

I am considering lithium batteries as well. I was wondering if a Victron Smart Shunt would be a good add on to monitor battery state?

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by Big Enough

I am considering lithium batteries as well. I was wondering if a Victron Smart Shunt would be a good add on to monitor battery state?

That depends, some lithium batteries come with a built in smart shunt=no need for a separate one.

It is a good idea to have a smart shunt since there really is no other way to know the charge left in your lithium batteries.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by 1StreamDream

I don’t have a basecamp so I can’t offer specifics, but I suggest you go ahead and find the termination point for the “charge” wire in the 7 way harness, it is in your electrical bay somewhere, and I would remove it from the +12vdc bus in the basecamp. Be sure to cover it well, I did this in my 25’ flying cloud, to keep the electrical of the trailer (lithium batteries) separate from my tow vehicle. I used a wire nut, and some electrical tape. You won’t be losing anything, and you will gain the protection of depleting your trailer batteries while plugged in to your tow vehicle. If you want the tow vehicle to charge those lithiums (even if only trickle charge), you will need a dc-dc converter/charger to boost the voltage up above the lithium threshold.

If you disconnect the charge wire will doing so affect the emergency brake system?

[Air2Dream]

Originally Posted by Wazbro

That depends, some lithium batteries come with a built in smart shunt=no need for a separate one.

It is a good idea to have a smart shunt since there really is no other way to know the charge left in your lithium batteries.

Thanks, a couple more questions.

If the solar controller is a Victron Smart Controller is there an advantage to using a Victron Smart Shunt?

I also noticed in the Airstream 12 Volt drawings that no cutoff switch is provided between the controller and panels. Should a switch be added?

[1StreamDream]

Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet

If you disconnect the charge wire will doing so affect the emergency brake system?

No, the charge wire does not affect that, the trailer emergency brakes draw power from the trailer battery, so if your trailer battery is depleted, the emergency brakes won’t operate. If you count on your tow vehicle to recharge your trailer battery, then you need one of the dc-dc devices mentioned earlier, in your wiring path, and it’s the same 7-way wire either way so knowing where it is inside your electrical bay enables several use cases that will depend on that knowledge.

[Jcondon]

The Renogy Smart Lithium are great batteries. The battery monitor gives you a lot of info on what is going on so a shunt is not needed. I do recommend a dc to dc charger though. Renogy makes a nice one also. I like using the trigger to turn it on and off while driving.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by Big Enough

Thanks, a couple more questions.

If the solar controller is a Victron Smart Controller is there an advantage to using a Victron Smart Shunt?

I also noticed in the Airstream 12 Volt drawings that no cutoff switch is provided between the controller and panels. Should a switch be added?

Not sure, if you can use a single app for both that would be the biggest advantage.

While you can go without a switch, many people have added one to make servicing and diagnostics easier. That's diagnostic such as problems with converter or DC/DC charger and being able to turn off everything else so you can concentrate on just one thing at a time.

[Silvr_Bullet]

With the Victron app, you can list more than 1 device. I would think they would all have to be Victron specific. Also would depend upon support of the battery manufacturer.

[SDD]

Originally Posted by JA15830

Hello All,

I am about to purchase a pair of Renogy 100AH lithium batteries (RBT100LFP12-BT-US) to put into our 2022 Basecamp 20x. I would very much appreciate it if those of you with a lot more knowledge about these things would weigh in on my plan.

• Controller - I have a Victron 150/35 MPPT controller - rotate the dial to position 7
• Power Center - Progressive Dynamics PD400 series - Slide the Output Mode Switch to LI
• Remove the battery box lid - not necessary for LI batteries (or the AGM batteries I currently have.
• Remove or alter the lower part of the battery box to allow the new batteris to fit. They are about an inch longer than the AGMs.

We rarely have the seven way plug attached to the truck while the truck is off, and I am pretty sure that the Ford electrical system isolates the seven way plug from the trailer automatically. So, I am not concerned about the truck battery being drained.

I found a 10% off coupon for the batteries which has tipped the scale towards this upgrade. There are so many or you out there with a great deal of knowledge. I hope to prevent any unanticipated problems.

Thanks in advance for your comments, suggestions, and corrections.

Late, but do not buy Renogy products of any sort. Just cheap rebranded Chinese parts with a marketing budget.

[JA15830]

Originally Posted by SDD

Late, but do not buy Renogy products of any sort. Just cheap rebranded Chinese parts with a marketing budget.

Thanks for the warning. Is your warning based on personal experience, or other peoples experiences?

[Jcondon]

Originally Posted by SDD

Late, but do not buy Renogy products of any sort. Just cheap rebranded Chinese parts with a marketing budget.

No lithium battery cells are made in the USA. A few are assembled here. Both Renogy and Battleborn are US companies though. I have had great service from Renogy. They really simplify the install.

[Mx468]

I've been using Renogy solar panels for about a year now and no complaints from me I can't comment on their batteries because I'm currently using Valence U-CHARGE XP U27-12XP Lithium iron Phosphate 12V 138Ah Batteries.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by JA15830

Thanks for the warning. Is your warning based on personal experience, or other peoples experiences?

Hi

Their batteries are on the third of fourth "re-release". The ones I have most certainly do have issues. I've had zero problems with the BB's over a much longer time period. Are my Reneges the latest and greatest? Probably not. Lets see what they released yesterday . Did they fix all the issues yesterday? Who knows ....

Bob