Access to converter under frt sofa

[rochar3]

Hello,
Need to replace converter which is located under frt sofa in 03 31' classic.
Any suggestions on how to get good access or does sofa have to come out?
Thanks
Bob

[Kistler]

I removed the sofa. Actually, the converter "exchange" was simple compared to the struggle with the sofa

[ROBERT CROSS]

Had plenty of room to get ours out thru the drop down access door. Just removed the drawer under the sofa/bed to gain a little more room.

Wondering if your Classics are set-up different?

[rochar3]

Did you actually unbolt the sofa frame?

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Had plenty of room to get ours out thru the drop down access door. Just removed the drawer under the sofa/bed to gain a little more room.

Wondering if your Classics are set-up different?

Sounds like the same setup as my 31. I have not removed mine, but have been messing around in that area with some wiring. Taking the sofa out seems like a last option. As mentioned above. once the under sofa drawer is out, the front panel of the box the converter is mounted on, opens down. It is a little tight in there, so I'm glad to hear it comes out. I would recommend that first. It also helps if you partly open up the sofa so the front edge is up.
Good luck,
Ken

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by rochar3

Did you actually unbolt the sofa frame?

yes.

4-6 bolts are all that secure it to the subfloor.

empty the sofa drawer, then LIFT it off the rollers (small latches at each end)

remove sofa bolts.

then put the metal rails (legs) of the sofa ON sliders and slide it forward,

rotating the CURB side toward the trailer door, after it's pulled forward 1-2 ft.
_________

UNPLUG from shore power.

dis-connect the batteries AT the posts OR at the relays along the interior wall.

disconnect wiring from the p-lax unit

remove 4 screws hold the p-lax to the floor

disconnect p-lax wiring (and unplug from AC power if a wall plug unit)

i found it useful to disconnect SOME of the wiring that crossed OVER the top of the p-lax,

but it ALL can be shoved 2 the side as well.

LIFT out p-lax from wooden box/frame.

REVERSE steps for install.
___________

TAKE PHOTOS of each step...

so that IF you forget which wire goes WHERE

or need to LOOK at the original setup, there is a record of it.

cheers
2air'

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

yes. .....................


rotating the CURB side toward the trailer door, after it's pulled forward 1-2 ft.......................................

_________


cheers
2air'

If his 31 floor plan is the same as mine, I don't think this step will work.
The back of the dinette is, at the most, 2 feet in front of the couch. There is barely enough room to get the drawer out. Seeing the damage the "professional" installers did getting mine in ( all fixed under warranty now), I am not going to take mine out unless it is absolutely necessary.
Regards,
Ken

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by w7ts

If his 31 floor plan is the same as mine, I don't think this step will work...

right ken,

IF the o.p. has a dinette, ONE bench might need to come out first.

but the sofa is SHORTER than the arms suggest and might wiggle free.

IF NOT...

remove drawer and cushions/springs from seat then undo 4 bolts...

then take the bench OUTside.

again it's a PAIN, but imo useful.
___________

but every1 has got their own approach and needs.

my need is FULL access and FULL view of wiring

and NO impediments where ELECTRICITY is an issue.

but 2eachisown...
___________

and while it IS physically possible to work THROUGH and BEHIND drop-down this panel,

AFTER the DRAWER is removed...



it really is a PAIN to do so.

on top of that some of the REPLACEMENT C/C are slightly LARGER...

or have a different footprint than the oem p-lax...
____________

here are some quick shots WITHOUT details of the process.

once the sofa is OUT OF THE WAY...

ZOOOOM any pic for a MUCH larger view and details...

1.top view of c/c box and battery boxes/wiring


2.right over the c/c, also note THIS p-lax model plugs directly into wall AC power...


3. wiring and screws 2 deal with...


4.after the p-lax is OUT...


5.xantrex IN place and wired, screws securing IT to the floor don't match UP with original holes...

and it has a DIFFERENT footprint, so the fan doesn't match up to oem box vents...


6.view from 12v trap door...


7.another shot from the drop down door view



8.again see the door in picture 1...

this mess WOULD fit through there but...


as kistler notes, the sofa removal/reinstall takes more time that the converter transplant.

BUT with the sofa removed,

the wiring and screws and vents and so on are easier to access.

and ALL the connects are easier to check with a multimeter too...

ymmv, vwp

cheers
2air'