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Old 10-24-2021, 06:08 PM   #1
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1974 Argosy 26
Wilmington , North Carolina
Join Date: Oct 2021
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74 argosy inverter issues

What’s happening people out there, I just bought a74 26’ argosy and currently renovating/ restoring, we are keeping a bit of the old but updating a bit as well. My question is about the inverter. It constantly runs and makes a buzzing noise. I’m wondering what I need to do in order to disconnect it, do I need to install some sort of small sub panel? When I bought it the battery cables where live with no battery. I disconnected the both wires from the inverter and now I am getter a short and it actually seems like the whole camper is grounding out or something, I was cutting one of the gas lines to shorten and was shocked and than was locking the battery access and was shocked, one of the fuses blew but still seems to be grounding out… not sure if that the correct term but somehow power is still transferring to either copper or steal around the camper…
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Old 10-24-2021, 06:55 PM   #2
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Hi

Are we talking about an inverter ( a device that turns 12V battery power into 120V AC power)?

-or-

A converter (a device that turns 120V AC into 12V DC to charge the batteries and run 12V stuff when on shore power.) ?

If the battery is out *and* shore power is disconnected, there should be no way to get a shock. If you *are* getting "bit" then one of those two things is not 100% true.

I'm guessing that we're talking about a converter. If it's the original "univolt" that came with the trailer, it's way past it's retirement date. Pull it and replace it.

Bob
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Old 10-25-2021, 05:30 AM   #3
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1974 Argosy 26
Wilmington , North Carolina
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Univolt

I think your correct, it a univolt converter. The landline 120v is connected. There is no battery but there were leads going to where the battery was stored, I disconnected the leads since they were still hot. Are you suggesting that I should just scrap the converter and upgrade to new unit?
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Old 10-25-2021, 08:14 AM   #4
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West Chester , Ohio
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Probably a good idea to replace. We did a separate fuse panel and converter/inverter and very happy with function.

Also know that this component also serves as your battery charger, so even though there is no battery…the leads you disconnected are hot

Make sure your batt (+) isn’t touching anything as this would likely give you the condition you are describing (chassis being electrified)!
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Old 10-25-2021, 09:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travishunt View Post
I think your correct, it a univolt converter. The landline 120v is connected. There is no battery but there were leads going to where the battery was stored, I disconnected the leads since they were still hot. Are you suggesting that I should just scrap the converter and upgrade to new unit?
Hi

Yes, they don't last forever and are known to cause various issues. A replacement is in the $200 range. Get it from somebody you can talk to on the phone. Don't just buy it on Amazon ....

Replacing the converter is a good idea, but likely not the entire solution. There are some checks that need to be done. Getting a pro in to do this is an ok way to go. Not everything is DIY.

Simple tests:

Grab your multimeter and see if the ground lug on the shore power shows continuity to the chassis. If not, fix that.

Now move back to the far end of your shore power cord and do the same check. If it's still connected, that's great. If not ... .fix it.

Next check the ground on your power source. If it's not hooked up, that's a problem.

At this point, the chassis of the trailer should be ok in terms of 120V.

Next up is to check the 12V negative and make sure it is hooked to the chassis. The process is the same.

Once you get the chassis hooked up, you may find beakers popping or fuses blowing. They need to be tracked down and the issue addressed.

Once you replace the converter, the obvious problem may go away even without running through all the checks above. You still need to get the ground fixed. The converter is just showing you that there is a problem there.

Bob
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Old 10-25-2021, 10:47 AM   #6
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1972 31' Sovereign
Dry Branch , Georgia
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converter

For my purposes on my converter I disconnected the hot wire to converter and added a light switch to turn converter on and off at will.
You could disconnect your univolt converter then see if you still get shocked.
I would think the shock is from your 120vac system.
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Old 10-25-2021, 11:56 AM   #7
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Carrollton , Kentucky
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The Univolt that came with my Argosy charged continuously when plugged in, boiling batteries to death. Replaced it with an Intellipower with charge wizard and have replaced 1 battery in 15 years since.

https://www.campingworld.com/progres...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 10-25-2021, 05:43 PM   #8
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1988 32' Excella
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Some Airstreams and Argosy's from around that year had a reverse polarity light. This light is a SAFETY HAZARD since when you plug in to an outlet that has a reversed polarity the power going through the light will electrify the shell.
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Old 10-25-2021, 06:56 PM   #9
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1976 24' Argosy 24
1999 30' Excella 1000
White Haven , Pennsylvania
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Intellipower with charge wizard

What he said. I did a 60watt? version for our Argosy
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Old 10-26-2021, 02:28 PM   #10
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1988 32' Excella
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gkiesel View Post
Intellipower with charge wizard

What he said. I did a 60watt? version for our Argosy
I guess you meant 60amp version.
60watt = 5amp which isn't much.
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Old 10-26-2021, 04:33 PM   #11
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Dewey , Arizona
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Most likely 60 amp...
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Richard

Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
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Old 10-26-2021, 06:57 PM   #12
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1976 24' Argosy 24
1999 30' Excella 1000
White Haven , Pennsylvania
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Yes. Thank you so much for correcting that.
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Old 10-28-2021, 04:08 PM   #13
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Knoxville , TN
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If you are getting a shock form the body of the camper STOP EVERYTHING and unplug the shore power. You need to find the short in the electrical system. It's likely that the rodents have chewed on one of the 120 volt wires and exposed the hot wire.
Congratulations you now get to remove all the skins and see the rodent infested insulation.
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