'68 Tradewind 12V between converter and control panel

[kevinb]

Anne

I only have 5 connections in the door of my univolt hot, neutral and grd. for 120v and pos and neg for 12v. There are NO fuses in my univolt.

I GUESS that they installed a univolt with options you did not need, airstream was not all that consistant.

So IF the po didnt change anything and all your connections at the dist panel up front are ok (did you have 12v power before?) I would just connect the pos neg and ground to the new converter, plug it in and go. If it is ok to run your new converter w/out the battery then I would also disconnect it for your first trial.

The only fuses I have in the back of my coach are just like the ones you show in the pic above, they are between battery and dist panel.

Kevin

[kevinb]

A pictorial present for Anne, this is the front of my old univolt,with the door open.

[TG Twinkie]

Can you determine if the 40 amp fuses are in the battery leads?
The unit in your trailer may not be original. At this point it dorsn't matter. Since you are replacing it. We just need to ID the wiring then make sure it is properly protected.

[IndyAnne]

Thanks, fellas!

Here is what I think about the layout for 12v in my particular 68 Airstream Trade Wind. The company must have used a Univolt that was on hand, provided the necessary hookup for the 12v distribution panel in the Control Center. I do not need to worry that circuits were run from the Univolt panel.

I do need to check continuity of the main wiring from the converter and battery, and the wiring for all destinations (motors, lights, appliances, outlets).

I can install the PD 9245, but test it without the battery first.

Q&A: Yes, I have always had 12v where it is expected to be. Everything worked except a switch from the center double bed bulkhead, for turning off or on an overhead light in the "wardrobe" area just in front of the bathroom. Other non-working or non-existent items were the black tank level probe, and the fresh water level probe. All the leads for these missing items are in place, just need to carefully attach them one at a time.

I think my day's work is contained here. I'll post pics later tonight.

Tomorrow, we paint the floor. Sunday, I finish the plumbing and rough-in the kitchen. Stay tuned!

Thanks so much for helping me. You are princes, all.

[IndyAnne]

PS If I suddenly quit posting, I haven't lost interest. My Dad is in bad health, I am the POA for lots of issues and procedures. Same for my brother, a Friend of Bill W., who recently sustained a traumatic brain injury and brain bleed. He's getting back on track, and in a good facility. One day at a time -- for both of them, and me. We're all that's left of our nuclear family.

Not seeking pity, just sayin'. And, if you're a praying or energy healing person, I'll take all you can send.

Working on the Trade Wind and anticipating camping trips keeps me sane.

[kevinb]

Anne

surely my prayers are with you....

I know what you mean in your last sentence it sure is a nice escape from reality to work on and think about working on the tw.

Kevin

[IndyAnne]

Update: I connected the PD 9245, without the battery for now, and I have 12v power to lights & water pump. I stopped there because I was so excited, I had to run in here and post about it.

I have shore power, through the 30 amp cord, plugged into my park-like 30 amp outlet. The cord leads to the 120v breaker box with house-like circuit breakers. The distribution of 120 volts seems pretty simple. The first circuit breaker on the right goes to the converter outlet and to another outlet that had been in the bath, above the vanity, curb-side back corner, about half-way up the fiberglass end cap, and beside it, a 12v wire connection is ready for something there.

The The Romex that directly connected to the Univolt is easy to convert to an outlet. I'm leaving everything where I found it, but modified if necessary. I had to take everything apart to get the interior skins off to replace the bath floor, the last 4 feet of floor in the trailer, approximately.

The fuses I now have between the converter and the distribution panel for 12v are in this order, upstream to downstream:
(2) 30 amp blade-type fuses (1) positive and (1) negative on the connections on the converter. Fused 12v leads go to the battery.

At the battery posts, the leads from the converter are paired with another set of positive and negative, one each. This second pair then have 40-amp fuses in-line (2), and lead on to the 12v distribution panel.

So I read that the converter can be grounded to the ribs or shell? The main breaker box has a pretty small ground wire that had been attached to the frame, but it corroded away along with the floor, during all the movement allowed by having nothing connected to the frame back there (the infamous rear-end separation). Behave.

Next step is to confirm 12v at all light fixtures, motors, starters, furnace, thermostat, etc., that I have continuity from the distribution panel.

Some random but related photos:

[IndyAnne]

Thanks, KevinB

Originally Posted by kevinb

Anne

surely my prayers are with you....

I know what you mean in your last sentence it sure is a nice escape from reality to work on and think about working on the tw.

Kevin