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Old 02-21-2021, 08:43 AM   #61
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The wiring can be a simple as Bob suggested. However if you are upgrading and want to power more outlets or appliances from your inverter one solution that some of us have used is to replace your current circuit breaker panel with a split panel which allows you to decide which circuits you do and do not want powered by the inverter. --Frank
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Old 02-21-2021, 08:49 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

All inverter chargers wire in a similar fashion:

1) The old wires that went to the old charger go to the AC input on the new box.

2) The old wires that went from the old inverter to the inverter powered outlets go to the AC output of the new box.

3) The old wires that went from the old inverter to the batteries move to the DC port on the new box. They would be upgraded if the new box is more powerful than the old box.

That's pretty much all you do. Same wires to the same place.

On the Victron Multi's, you can get a nice control panel that wires in to them. It will show you what's going on and let you manually control their function. We have our control panel mounted in the vicinity of the kitchen sink.

Bob

Thanks - I think I got it. This wiring scheme would prohibit the Multi from powering all the 110v outlets in the trailer and simply boost the inverter outlets from 1000w to 3000w (assuming I go with the 3k Multi). That scheme would also mean my Multi and battery bank could not power the AC/heatpump, correct?


I was thinking of bringing a small 2000-2200w generator on boondocking trips and using the Multi + genny to run the heat pump in the cool mornings if necessary or to run the convection microwave while cooking dinner. I absolutely hate generators but could live with a briefcase style at under 50 decibels.
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Old 02-22-2021, 06:16 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by BT2513 View Post
Thanks - I think I got it. This wiring scheme would prohibit the Multi from powering all the 110v outlets in the trailer and simply boost the inverter outlets from 1000w to 3000w (assuming I go with the 3k Multi). That scheme would also mean my Multi and battery bank could not power the AC/heatpump, correct?


I was thinking of bringing a small 2000-2200w generator on boondocking trips and using the Multi + genny to run the heat pump in the cool mornings if necessary or to run the convection microwave while cooking dinner. I absolutely hate generators but could live with a briefcase style at under 50 decibels.
Hi

Key point:

The multi has a "transfer switch" built into it. Any outlet that gets power from the inverter is normally powered through this transfer switch. As long as you keep things set up this way, there is no way to get inverter and shore power mixed up.

Bob
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Old 02-22-2021, 06:36 AM   #64
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Just a quick note...the Victron Multi 12/3000/120 is 3000VA, which equals 2400 watts of power for your trailer.
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Old 02-22-2021, 06:51 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by BT2513 View Post
Can you describe the wiring you did here? I don't necessarily need the MP 3000 to power the AC and/or the microwave but it might be nice to do. Eventually.


For now, I'm concerned about accidentally turning them on. I suppose I could flip the breakers when I know I don't want to use them but its still a concern. There is also an aux plug on the Multiplus that passes through 120v I believe - would be nice to run this to the AC and microwave but I don't want to really have to disassemble or rewire to much of the panel on a brand new AS.



Does the Multiplus receive its power from the inverter breaker on the main panel or straight from the shore power connection?
Typically, I place the Victron inverter/charger on 4/0 AWG cables to the batteries and then use a different gauge (10AWG or 6AWG, depending on your arrangement of 1 A/C or 2 A/Cs) to lead into the breaker box and your old MAIN breaker. I use the inverter IN to come from the new breaker box (along with the main power cable) and the inverter OUT to go directly to the existing breaker box.

This will give you a new main breaker and a breaker for the inverter IN circuit, along with powering your entire breaker box from the inverter OUT circuit.
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Old 03-08-2021, 10:53 AM   #66
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2021 27' Flying Cloud
Austin , TX
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Torque specs on fuse mount bolt?

Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Well, there a fuse and then there's a FUSE ... That beast costs about $70 to replace and has ... wait for it ... torque specs on the lug bolts. Very much a monster device. Looking at the enclosure for it, you'd never guess what was inside ....

All that said, the bigger question is - why did it blow? When you pay that much for them, you don't expect ( or usually get ) random failures on that category of device

Bob
I'm replacing this fuse in my new 27FB Flying Cloud and I can't find any info on these torque specs. To make sure I put this back together right, what are they? Thanks!
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