1964 Univolt revisited

[koltys]

Apologies in advance if these are stupid questions. I read several threads on the subject and didn't find my answers before posting.

I am replacing the Univolt in my 1964 Globetrotter with an Intellicharger. The wiring in my Globetrotter is very similar to this:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/260876-post4.html

Two Questions:
1) Output from the old Univolt was 12v and 19v. Can I safely combine these, now that I am certain there are no remaining 19v draws? (original pump is gone) If not, what do I do?

2) The 12v and 19v inputs to the wiring panel are blue and green. Which of these would be positive, and which is negative?

Bonus 3) There is a kludgie looking thin black wire that ran from the hot 110v side of the Univolt into the wiring panel. It was definitely hooked to the white side of the 110v, not the black. Any idea what this might be?

Thanks a million...I don't know what I would do without this resource!

[Wabbiteer]

I have read the 19V is AC and runs the vent fan motors quite well...

[koltys]

Looking more closely at the diagram, I see that both the 12v and the 19v coming out of the Univolt are AC. They must be rectified in the wiring panel.

As far as the ceiling vent fan goes, it runs fine on the battery only, so it must be 12v, I guess?

[koltys]

Hmmm. The more I look at this diagram, the more I think I am better off bypassing the wiring panel and connecting the Intellipower unit directly to the battery. Does anyone see any fault with that logic?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...1&d=1154978611

[47WeeWind]

Originally Posted by koltys

... I am replacing the Univolt in my 1964 Globetrotter with an Intellicharger. The wiring in my Globetrotter is very similar to this:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/260876-post4.html Two Questions:

1) Output from the old Univolt was 12v and 19v. Can I safely combine these, now that I am certain there are no remaining 19v draws? (original pump is gone) If not, what do I do?

2) The 12v and 19v inputs to the wiring panel are blue and green. Which of these would be positive, and which is negative?

Bonus 3) There is a kludgie looking thin black wire that ran from the hot 110v side of the Univolt into the wiring panel. It was definitely hooked to the white side of the 110v, not the black. Any idea what this might be?

Thanks a million...I don't know what I would do without this resource!

For 1964 ONLY, the first year of the Univolt, it was an AC transformer that steppped down 120 VAC to 12 VAC for lights and to ~19 VAC for fan and water pump motors. When you replace the old Univolt transformer with a modern Intellipower converter, you can wire both the old 12 VAC and 19 VAC circuits to 12VDC. I disassembled the old City/Battery power switch box and reused the circuit breakers in the new 12 VDC circuits. I got rid of the City/Battery switches since all 12 VDC circuits now originated from the battery. I wired the old 120 VAC power feed to the Univolt into a new 2 outlet 120 VAC junction box mounted to the wall, then plugged the Intellipower's 120 VAC plug into that new outlet. Now, plugging the trailer into City power merely activates the Intellipower as a battery charger and converter. Specifically,

1. Yes, you can now safely combine the old 12 VAC and ~19 VAC circuits as new 12 VDC circuits.

2. I don't remember but figured it out by myself years ago.

3. I don't remember, but it might have been the positive 120 VAC feed to the Univolt, which then stepped down that power to 12VAC and ~19VAC. I put a new 120 VAC 2 outlet juncttion box at the end of the old AC power cord to the Univolt. I mounted my new Intellipower to the curved wall instead of leaving in on the floor. Have fun and good luck.

[koltys]

Thanks, Fred. Once I opened the wiring panel, things were much clearer! I should have no problem removing what I don't need and connecting the Intellipower unit.

Remember that "kludgie looking thin black wire that ran from the hot 110v side of the Univolt into the wiring panel"? It is the lead for the polarity warning light! I might just leave it connected when I reassemble everything.