12V converter/battery/monitor upgrade

[dznf0g]

Hi all, (2007 Classic 30')
I'm getting ready to upgrade my converter to an Iota DLS 55 w/IQ4, and add a BatteryMINDer OBD-12, a Tri-Metric TM-2025RV to go with my 2 new group 29 flooded cell batteries. The trailer is in storage some distance from the house and I am trying to make sure I have all the supplies and knowledge I need prior to the travel to install.

I have no issues with the Iota and the BatteryMINDer install. My question pertains to the 500 AMP shunt install for the Tri-Metric. I'm a little confused on the ground circuit when comparing the pics to the VERY vague wiring schematic in the owners' manual.

It appears to me that the 2 black cables run directly from each battery to this ground block. Is that correct? If so, is the bare copper wire the main block to chassis ground? I see 5 additional grounds. From the schematic I know I have:

1) converter ground (the fat one)
2) Umbilical cord ground
3) Brake actuator ground
4) ????
5) ????

AS schematic doesn't show the other two. Anybody know what they are?

My thought is that the shunt should be mounted to the electrical center box wall next to the ground block, the 2 battery to block ground cables should connect to one side of the shunt and I should run 2 new grounds from the other side of the shunt to the present battery ground locations in the ground block. Is that correct?

Also, the positive battery cables are 6 ga. and the negative cables are unmarked....that I can see from the pics I have. Are they also 6 ga? I would assume so, but I thought someone might know for sure.

How hot does the shunt get? Do I need to shield it from the wood electrical center box? Perhaps mount it in the airflow exiting the converter?

By the way, What is the black box mounted in the rear of the center, in the upper right of the photo? Ive never pulled the cover off.

Thanks for helping!

[abolton]

Do you realize the Iota is a thee stage battery charger? Thats why I put one in mine

[dznf0g]

Yes, I completely understand that. That is the reason for the conversion. I am not sure what that has to do with my question?????

[dznf0g]

Oh, I think I get your point. The BatteryMINDer OBD-12 is not a charger...it is a desulfator.

[goldwing70]

Can't help you with your question, but I'm thinking of doing the same thing to my International CCD (25ft, 2005) too. Please post up any tips/pics when you are done! Thanks!

[dznf0g]

Well, the installation was pretty straight forward. The Iota is just "plug and Play", replacing the old Parallax. I mounted the shunt for the tri-metric monitor in the left sidewall of the power center. I know, the two ground wires are RED. I recycled some new but unused battery cables I had laying around the garage. I did clearly mark them as "neg" with a Sharpie though. No comments, please. The existing Neg battery cables were removed from the ground block and attached to the appropriate end of the shunt.
Since there were two 8ga battery cables running from the batteries, I felt that two 8ga cables were appropriate from the shunt to the ground block, so as not to introduce any potential additional resistance.

[dznf0g]

The Tri-metric monitor panel was hooked up to the shunt in the picture in the above post, per it's VERY thorough instruction manual. You will want to spend some time with this manual in order to fully understand the system install as well as programming.
I simply ran the monitor cable under the couch into the arm storage compartment and ran it up the wall inside the table compartment, and out to the monitor. Right now I just have the monitor velcro'ed to the mouse fur. I am not sure where I want it permanently, so I decided to keep it less intrusively installed till I see what I like. (uh...I mean what "momma" will tolerate).

[dznf0g]

The BatteryMINDer OBD-12 is NOT a charger of any type. It is a desulfator which only "turns on" when it sees a little over 13V. So it is in operation whenever on shore power or TV charging. (I suppose Solar too???? I don't have solar so I haven't spent any time studying up on it in depth).
Install is just running the positive cable of the OBD-12 to one battery positive post and the negative cable of the OBD-12 to the negative post of the OTHER battery.

The hardest part of this step was running the 14ga wire through the rubber gasket into the battery boxes. It was a little like pushing a cooked spaghetti noodle uphill. By the way, all of this install is MUCH easier if you take the time to remove the couch.

[dznf0g]

This is the final view of the power center with the install complete.

Now the hard part....waiting till spring to use this upgrade as well as whatever else I dream up this winter!

[dznf0g]

OOOPs, I always see something wrong AFTER I post. All the battery cables are 6ga, not 8ga. Sorry.

[68 Overlander]

Fantastic explaination and photos. You have a great set-up now and did a remarkable job explaining what you did and why.

[cruiser54]

I insert this device....

http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/...%20UK02-08.pdf

Greetings from Switzerland
Werner

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by cruiser54

I insert this device....

http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/...%20UK02-08.pdf

Greetings from Switzerland
Werner

That's what my doctor said, as I began to sing....MOOOOOOOOOOOOON Riverrrrrrr......"

[cruiser54]

I do not understand the answer, my computer makes a crazy translation....

[dznf0g]

Sorry cruiser,

An attempt at humor from a movie.
I think the unit you showed is way more than I needed. I rarely need an inverter except to charge a phone or ipod, etc. I have 12V chargers for those and on those rare occasions when I do need an inverter I have a portable 400W unit I use.
For, me, it's overkill and pricey.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Hi all, (2007 Classic 30')

By the way, What is the black box mounted in the rear of the center, in the upper right of the photo? Ive never pulled the cover off.

Thanks for helping!

I don't know if you have figured out the black box yet.

It is where the umbilical cord going to the TV is terminated. If you remove the cover, you will find a terminal strip with the wires from the umbilical and the wires from the trailer attached to studs.

Inside this box was the cause of a total brake failure in my trailer. The nut on the terminal for the brake wire had loosened to the point that there was no longer continuity to the brakes.

See:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...eak-67609.html

Regards,

Ken

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by w7ts

I don't know if you have figured out the black box yet.

It is where the umbilical cord going to the TV is terminated. If you remove the cover, you will find a terminal strip with the wires from the umbilical and the wires from the trailer attached to studs.

Inside this box was the cause of a total brake failure in my trailer. The nut on the terminal for the brake wire had loosened to the point that there was no longer continuity to the brakes.

See:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...eak-67609.html

Regards,

Ken

Thanks, Ken,

I did examine it while doing this upgrade. Appears to be not much more than a positive junction block.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Oh, I think I get your point. The BatteryMINDer OBD-12 is not a charger...it is a desulfator.

Somewhere (probably in the IQ-4 manual) is says that when the convertor is plugged in to AC, it will enter a desulfation cycle every 7 days.

I replaced my converter with the same one about 6 months ago. I chose to get the basic converter with the external IQ-4. I mounted the IQ-4 on the front of the door to the converter box. That way I can see the green LED mounted on it by opening the under couch drawer. However, the information is somewhat redundant, because I can also tell what it is doing by reading the digital voltmeter on my solar control panel.

On advantage to having the IQ-4 accessible that sometimes I think my solar charger confuses the IQ-4 ( Haven't proved this yet). By pulling and reinserted the inter connecting cable on the IQ-4, I can cause it to reset. I am thinking about installing a relay that will disconnect the solar charger when I am plugged into shorepower.

Regards,

Ken

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by w7ts

Somewhere (probably in the IQ-4 manual) is says that when the convertor is plugged in to AC, it will enter a desulfation cycle every 7 days.

I replaced my converter with the same one about 6 months ago. I choose to get the basic converter with the external IQ-4. I mounted the IQ-4 on the front of the door to the converter box. That way I can see the green LED mounted on it by opening the under couch drawer. However, the information is somewhat redundant, because I can also tell what it is doing by reading the digital voltmeter on my solar control panel.

On advantage is that sometimes I think my solar charger confuses the IQ-4 ( Haven't proved this yet). By pulling and reinserted the inter connecting cable on the IQ-4, I can cause it to reset.

Well, not really, sorta....maybe. Talk to Randy. (68overlander on this forum) Here's the scoop, if I understand it correctly. IQ-4 will go into a true float voltage situation which, will minimize the creation of sulfate and they claim to "cycle" something.
The OBD-12 (as well as some of the other BatteryMINDer bench products), in addition to true float management, sends pulses through the battery at the vibration frequencies of sulfate crystals. This CLAIMS to break up crystals which may have formed as well as prevent the formation of new crystals. Supposedly These pulses MAY also stir up the battery fluid sufficiently to prevent stratification.

I found information online elsewhere which supported Randy's comments. OBD-12 wasn't that expensive, so I said "what the heck".

Note: None of these technologies prevent lead plate eventual breakdown, so your batteries won't last forever, but I have read in a lot of forums re. deep cycle batteries (boating, fishing, rving, etc.) folks who claim 50% to 75% longer battery life (5 - 8 years). We're talking wet cell lead acid batteries only here. Take it for what it's worth...I'll tell ya in 5 - 8.

[ticki2]

According to Iota

"Weekly Equalization For Longer Battery Life
If batteries have not received a "Smart Charge"during a seven-day period , the IQ Controller will switch the DSL charger into a pre-programmed equalization stage to top off the batteries , dissolving any sulfate layer on the battery's internal plates and avoiding stratification. "