Yeti Pro 4000 Integration Wiring Diagram

[wmcneil]

For those who are considering, or using, a power station (A.K.A solar generator) with your AS, this may be useful. I also welcome any feedback about things I may have overlooked.

I have purchased a Yeti Pro 4000 and have been thinking through scenarios for integrating it into my AS. I want to preserve the option to remove the 4000 from the AS and use it elsewhere as well. I have also purchased the integration kit that Goal Zero sells (Escape Towable Kit), which has several cables/wiring harnesses and a remote display, so it speeds up integration time.

I’ve attached a couple of charts. The first page is a wiring diagram, and the second page describes the different scenarios that the wiring diagram supports. I describe three scenarios:
Scenario 1: 4000 plus house batteries;
Scenario 2: 4000 without any house batteries;
Scenario 3: 4000 removed while retaining house batteries(this is same as factory configuration)

There is one behavior of the 4000 that I have been investigating that comes into play for its use model: In order to turn on the 4000 12VDC out, it requires either a manual press of a button, or use of the app.

If the house batterie(s) are retained (Scenario 1), then when towing, the electric brakes breakaway switch is powered from the house batterie(s) regardless of whether the 4000 12VDC out is on or off. However, in order to charge the house batteries when towing, the Yeti 12V DC output must be turned on (manual switch or app), and the Battery Relay must be set to “Use”.

If the house batterie(s) are removed (Scenario 2), then when towing the 4000 12VDC output must be on and the AS Battery Relay must be set to “Use”, in order to provide power to the electric brakes breakaway switch.

For the third scenario, the 4000 is removed, and the house batteries are retained. This provides the same behavior as my AS had when shipped from the factory (and allows the 4000 to be used elsewhere, for whatever reason).

So with either Scenario 1 or Scenario 2, before towing, a human needs to turn on the 4000 12VDC out. For Scenario 2, the Battery Relay must also be set to “Use”. Since Scenario 3 (factory AS configuration) requires me to set the Battery Relay to “Use” when towing in order to charge the house batteries, adding the requirement (for Scenario 1 or Scenario 2) to also turn on the 4000 12VDC out seems to not be much additional burden.

[SandKSmith]

I haven't digested all this, as there is a lot here. But, I did something similar to this 5 years ago on our '06 Safari with a Yeti 1400, 210 AH lithium, and 400 watts solar. The goal was to power all the Airstream outlets when needed. Ptech wrote an excellent post back in 2019 called Approachable Affordable Lithium. Following his guidance, I found his solution perfect for our needs at the time. Keep the house batteries. Removing them is only asking for trouble down the road and I think you need dedicated DC power for the break away switch anyway. Use the Yeti to supply AC power to all the outlets when you need it via an automatic transfer switch, switching between the Yeti and shore power. The Yeti is the default. I charged the Yeti via rooftop solar and the voltage adjustable relay in a Victron BMV712 and another 25A relay to switch power to the Yeti for recharging once the house batteries were fully charged. All in all, it was easy to install, easy to use and reliable. Yet yeti, since it is plugged into the transfer switch via a 120V plug, could be removed anytime without affecting other systems on the trailer.

[wmcneil]

Originally Posted by SandKSmith

I haven't digested all this, as there is a lot here. But, I did something similar to this 5 years ago on our '06 Safari with a Yeti 1400, 210 AH lithium, and 400 watts solar. The goal was to power all the Airstream outlets when needed. Ptech wrote an excellent post back in 2019 called Approachable Affordable Lithium. Following his guidance, I found his solution perfect for our needs at the time. Keep the house batteries. Removing them is only asking for trouble down the road and I think you need dedicated DC power for the break away switch anyway. Use the Yeti to supply AC power to all the outlets when you need it via an automatic transfer switch, switching between the Yeti and shore power. The Yeti is the default. I charged the Yeti via rooftop solar and the voltage adjustable relay in a Victron BMV712 and another 25A relay to switch power to the Yeti for recharging once the house batteries were fully charged. All in all, it was easy to install, easy to use and reliable. Yet yeti, since it is plugged into the transfer switch via a 120V plug, could be removed anytime without affecting other systems on the trailer.

Thanks for sharing your experience....A few details:
* The 4000 has a AC passthrough mode, so it can be placed at the output of the existing ATS, as shown in my diagram
* I am integrating the Yeti such that it can be removed, and factory function
restored, by unplugging cables and turning a switch
* The 4000 will be connected to all of the AC and DC distribution in the trailer

[wmcneil]

There is a mistake in my first post (first post of this thread). The mistake is that when towing, scenario 3 (factory configuration) does not require the Battery Relay to be set to “USE” in order for the house batteries to be charged. Rather, when towing, the house batteries are charged (From the trailer harness 12V supply) regardless of the setting of the Battery Relay.

I have thought through some changes (described below). Attached is the updated wiring diagram (page1), and associated details of the configurations it supports (page2). I labeled this update Rev2

In summary, the three scenarios I describe are (same as my previous post):
Scenario 1: 4000 plus house batteries;
Scenario 2: 4000 without any house batteries;
Scenario 3: 4000 removed while retaining house batteries, and using converter (this is same as factory configuration)

The changes to the wiring diagram from the previous version are: The +12V supply from the 7-pin trailer harness now connects to both the house batteries and the 4000 low voltage DC input, and a DC/DC converter has been added to prevent the house batterie(s) from supplying power to the 4000 low voltage 12VDC input, and also prevents the 4000 12VDC output from supplying power to the 4000 low voltage 12VDC input.

For both Scenario 1 and Scenario 3(factory config), the breakaway switch gets power from the house batteries regardless of the Battery Relay setting, and when towing, the house batteries get charged (from the trailer 7-pin +12V supply) regardless of the Battery Relay setting. When not towing, in order to charge the house batteries, the Battery Relay must be set to “Use”, and: Scenario 1 requires 4000 12VDC distribution be on, Scenario 3 requires shorepower to be connected.

For Scenario 2, before towing, a human needs to turn on the 4000 12VDC out and set the Battery Relay to “Use”. When not towing, those same two settings are required in order to supply DC Distribution, LP Detector, and tongue jack.

[10Smiles]

Nice writeup. When the Yeti 4000 first came out I wished I hadn't already upgraded to lithium in our trailer, I thought the 4000 would be a slick install. Not sure where I would put it in our trailer, but I like the idea.

[wmcneil]

Originally Posted by 10Smiles

Nice writeup. When the Yeti 4000 first came out I wished I hadn't already upgraded to lithium in our trailer, I thought the 4000 would be a slick install. Not sure where I would put it in our trailer, but I like the idea.

I'm not certain exactly where the 4000 will be installed either. Things will be easier if it is near the front of the trailer (I have a FC 25FB), so under the bed is definitely a candidate. My trailer is 3 hours away at my mountain place, and I don't have a garage to put it in to work on it, so I'm waiting till things warm up a bit to do more of the physical install planning.

[StogieMan]

Good luck with your configuration and I hope it woks out for you. I’m not electrically inclined by no means but I did stay at a holiday in last night - LOL. Seriously though - been there and have done that and I will never ever go back to it again. During covid, I decided to add a Yeti 3000 which I tied to our 12V panel and even added a an ATS. Did it work? - yes but was it a PITA? - absolutely! I know that there are other posts on the Sprinter B forum where forum members are going that route for the convenience of having a “backup”for their home and good luck to them. I’m in my early 50’s and refuse to do any more work than what is needed. There is no way that I’m going to be hauling a heavy Yeti in and out of our Airstream Interstate. I just upgraded to 920 Ah’s of lithium and we just get in the rig and go. No more fussing around with moving the Yeti in and out of the interstate or worst yet moving around cables to get it everything working. We now load up and just go. The only issue is trying to get our batteries charged up while on the road but we have several options to do so that have worked.

Sometimes the only way to learn a lesson is doing the hard way and spending money to do it and I did just that. It sounds like you’re adamant about your decision and I hope that it works out for you and don’t regret spending the money as I did.

Lastly, the Yeti 3000 wasn’t the smallest and a PITA to get it into our Airstream comfortably so I would imagine that the 4000 will have a way bigger imprint and you will have a tougher time getting into your Airstream.

[wmcneil]

Originally Posted by StogieMan

Did it work? - yes but was it a PITA? - absolutely!

It sounds like perhaps your biggest issues were that the Yeti was not easy (weight and size) to move in and out, and not having it integrated made the use model not as easy as you would have liked?

I'm not planning on frequent movement of the Yei in and out of my AS. What I do want is to not be locked into a big sunk cost for batteries/solar/inverter in my AS. If in the future I am selling my AS for whatever reason, or I decide the Yeti is more useful to me elsewhere than in the AS, I am going to have the option to be able to easily remove the Yeti (literally unplug five cables), and retain the from-the-factory function of my AS.

Because the Yeti 4000 also has an integration kit, that helps lower the amount of my labor required to integrate it into the AS. The integration kit is $350, which will be the vast majority of my sunk cost in the AS.

I do have the training and experience to do the integration myself, and I'm willing to do the work. That said, I do want to minimize my labor cost, so that is one of the primary reasons for choosing to go the power station route (instead of the full custom route with all discrete components).

[Dick tracy]

I know this isn't the question, but.....
I have two smaller Jackerys that equal 300ah of lithium battery and I use them to run all the outlet needs in the Airstream allowing the house batteries to run the Airstream. I power it all by 630 watts of portable solar panels and of course the house batteries are charged while traveling through the truck.
The Jackerys are used in my house as backup when not traveling.
Simple and effective

[wmcneil]

Originally Posted by wmcneil

I'm not certain exactly where the 4000 will be installed either. Things will be easier if it is near the front of the trailer (I have a FC 25FB), so under the bed is definitely a candidate.

I have moved my AS to my "primary" home, and did some measuring today to prep for the install of the 4000. With the roll cart removed from the 4000, it will fit under the bed. This is the ideal location for wiring connections. I'll post some pictures once I have the install further along.

[3OnOurWay]

Thanks for walking us through this install.
Looks to be a great option to explore !