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Old 04-04-2020, 01:30 PM   #1
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Victron 100/30 bus bar wire size

Forgot to uninstall my Victron MPPT controller wires to bus bars when I moved up to 25 GT. What size do I need, #6? 400 watt panels
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Old 04-04-2020, 01:39 PM   #2
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I used 6 gauge for my Victron 100/30.
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Old 04-04-2020, 01:55 PM   #3
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#6 AWG will have a maximum of 0.27 Volts (9.2 Watts) lost in 20 feet, while #8 which is also allowed will have a maximum of 0.45 Volts (15.3 Watts) lost.
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Old 04-04-2020, 02:28 PM   #4
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You “can” get 4AWG to fit, but 6awg is recommended.
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Old 04-04-2020, 04:02 PM   #5
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Now, the bus bar

Was pretty easy to put in 22 Sport. The 25 GT has a lot more to sort through. Inverter, DC box under cover and lots of wires. Guess I will open the DC box to see what’s there. Was going to install the 712 at the same time but looks like I need both neg batteries cables connected on one side of shunt and connect two on the other side one going to neg bus bar and other to inverter
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Old 04-04-2020, 04:54 PM   #6
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Bus bar exposed

So, where do the controller to bus bar wires go? Left bar is positive so positive wire connects to one of the open bolts on left of that bar? And neg bus bar looks like two open on bottom but also see open connections on top of grey part. But that also has wires going to POS bus. Confused

Maybe just run wires out and connect directly to batteries?
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Old 04-04-2020, 07:44 PM   #7
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So you can land the positive on any of the open lugs on left side of the left (pos) bus as you suggested. The batteries will be charged through the breakers protecting the battery cables. The negative/ground bus is lower right and there are a couple lugs open again as you noted. The Grey terminal blocks have continuity horizontally but vertically only if a red insertion bridge is present so there is one negative available on the left second from the bottom, but the negative return to ground bus is too small to use that one. the Black (left third from bottom) is a ground wire grounding the positive bus metal mounting bracket.

Summary use the two bus bars directly, don't mess with the grey terminal blocks.
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Old 04-05-2020, 04:59 AM   #8
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Here is where I connected my solar controller positive and negative outputs with 6 gauge wire. I used these connectors available at Lowe's: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blackburn-2...r-Lugs/4582297
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Old 04-05-2020, 09:26 AM   #9
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Lug nuts

So, that’s how you connect. Looked like 6 gauge would not fit otherwise
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Old 04-05-2020, 09:36 AM   #10
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Shunt

AirMiles, did you happen to install 712 too? If so please send pic. Thanks
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Old 04-05-2020, 01:49 PM   #11
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in your pic there are 2 heavy gauge red wires going to breaker, are these the battery feeds?
So to disconnect 12 volts from the distribution you can turn off these 2 breakers? If so I'd want mt solar DC feed on the supplying the batteries. this allows battery filtering, one source for disconnect and while disconnected charging batteries.
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Old 04-05-2020, 01:57 PM   #12
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No I did not install a BMV-712. I installed a Victron Battery Smart Sense module instead. This module provides voltage and temperature compensation which is important for your wet-cell batteries. It just connects inside the battery box and uses bluetooth to communicate back to the Victron Solar controller. With wet cell batteries, voltage is a good indicator of state of charge. Just use and abuse your Duracell EGC2 batteries because they are tough. Don't worry about deeply discharging them because they are designed to be discharged by 80%. I've abused my Duracells for over 250 days with very deep discharges and they still test and perform as new.
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Old 04-05-2020, 02:24 PM   #13
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Ordered. Easy
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Old 04-05-2020, 05:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotfoot88 View Post
in your pic there are 2 heavy gauge red wires going to breaker, are these the battery feeds?
So to disconnect 12 volts from the distribution you can turn off these 2 breakers? If so I'd want mt solar DC feed on the supplying the batteries. this allows battery filtering, one source for disconnect and while disconnected charging batteries.
One is the battery feed, the other is the main going to the power distribution center.

The breakers are self resetting thermal breakers. You can't manually turn them off. They reset by cycling power (disconnecting the battery). You don't really want to put your solar directly to the battery without a fuse/breaker. More accurately, it is against code and best practices to do so. So per the code, land your solar after the thermal breaker or on less fancy models, fuse.
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Old 04-05-2020, 06:06 PM   #15
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I'm sure there is supposed to be protection on each solar panel line wherever you feed it too, I just think it best battery side of wiring
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Old 04-05-2020, 07:10 PM   #16
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Garfish,

Connected directly to the batteries positive side (through the fuse) and to the on the downhill side of the shunt on the negative side.
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Old 04-06-2020, 05:12 AM   #17
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Hotfoot88, as I tried to explain, the thermal breaker protects the battery cable from over current. If you connect a new source or load on the battery side of the breaker, even one that is fused, it is possible to exceed the ampacity of the battery cable. For example, if the breaker source is sending max current (say from the converter) and the solar system is sending max current at the same time. For this reason it is against the NEC code to do what you suggest.

You could connect the solar charger directly to the battery with a new dedicated fused cable, but it would be redundant and would only gain you about 3 watts while charging.
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Old 04-06-2020, 11:46 PM   #18
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BayouYour injecting another supply down stream from primary source. Usually doing it right takes a little extra time but usually worth it
Your relying on your battery bank all night and most efficient way to utilize solar source to replenish is at batteries.
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Old 04-07-2020, 05:51 AM   #19
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I understand what you're saying, but by that logic the converter would also have dedicated wiring directly to the batteries. I would think following NEC recommended practices would be considered doing it right, perhaps not....
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Old 04-11-2020, 06:00 PM   #20
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30/100 and 712 in

Finished both and only weird thing was ring terminal crimp for inverter neg cable. It is #4 so I bought #4 ring terminals but they were too large and would not crimp (hydraulic). The #6 I got for the battery cable was a fit for both 4 and 6 and so that’s what I used. Everything tight and love the Bluetooth
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