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Old 02-10-2020, 11:53 AM   #21
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fran&frank's Avatar
2016 27' Flying Cloud
Hartsburg , Missouri
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 367
I wired my solar charger and inverter/charger directly to my battery, the only thing between them is the shunt for my battery monitor on the negative side and a fuse for the inverter/charger and circuit breaker for the solar charger on the positive side. --Frank
Frank & Fran
2016 27' FC FB with 600 W solar
2016 Ford F150 EcoBoost
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Old 02-10-2020, 12:44 PM   #22
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2018 27' Globetrotter
Apollo Beach , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,401
My Victron solar controller is connected to the positive and negative busbars with a circuit breaker on the positive leg. Here are pictures to show how mine is connected. If you post a picture of yours, we may be able to help.

I would start by cleaning the connections on the batteries. Your Victron is going through bulk, absorption and float so it seems to be working. Then check all the connections between the controller and the batteries. I don't remember anyone else having a problem with their Victron Solar Controller.
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2018 GT27Q, 73 nights 12,177 miles, 600W Solar - 110kWh, PD4655L, 6V Batteries, Blue Ox, 16" tires, 2019 F250 PSD
Sold: 2017 FC25FB, 316 nights 40,150 miles, Propride, 400W Solar - 200kWh in 216 days
2013 Casita SD17 89 nights 16,200 miles
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Old 02-24-2020, 09:17 AM   #23
Grey Goose
2011 25' FB Flying Cloud
San Clemente , California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 65
Finally figured it out

A few weeks ago I posted that I was having a problem with my recently installed Victron 100/30 controller. After the battery was deeply discharged it would go into bulk mode for a few hours, bybass absorption, then jump into the float mode, even though the battery was still only at about 60% SOC.

When I installed the Victron, I simply used the same controller wiring that was previously installed by a technician. Upon examining it more closely, I couldn't understand why it was wired this way. The positive battery wire from the controller led to a two post connector, which then went to the terminal of the battery disconnect contractor switch which then led to the positive buss bar.

I simply disconnected the controller wire and attached it directly to the positive buss bar, and, Voila! The controller jumped into high gear and began charging at well over 200 watts.

I'm thinking that there was a significant voltage drop with the way the previous installer had it wired. At any rate, the system seems to be working fine now. I have attached photos below showing the wiring before and after. Thanks to everyone for their input.


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