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Old 08-28-2011, 04:44 AM   #81
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Phoenix,

That "binder clip" (top right) is used to shut off the gasoline when running on LPG. I usually start the generator on gas and let it run for about 15min to keep the fuel fresh in the carb, then shut it off and turn on the LPG when it starts to stumble.
I figure if you have a dual use system, it makes sense to be sure it runs reliably on both. The paper clip, (lower left) just keeps gunk out of the LPG line when stored.

The green tubing is a very flexible fuel line used on RC models. It works well on the LPG conversions because it can be routed in confined spaces without crimping and cutting off supply.
A gentle pinch will shut down the generator ASAP. The black nut on the regulator is the LPG mixture adjustment, handy at altitude.

Bob
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Old 08-28-2011, 08:24 AM   #82
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I am also looking at generators, I do know that when I purchase one it is going to be big enough to run everything on the trailer. I am not worried about weight because I have a small home made electric crane to lift it in and out of the truck if need be that I use for my wheelchair. What I dont understand is this sine vs regular power supplied. I do understand under certain conditions that if there is not enough power it can damage things, and i refer to this as some will buy small gens and then the amount of pwr pulled by appliance is more that is put out and thus reduct of pwr available for other appliances not available thus damage occurs. But if I am running a 6500/8500/9000 watt then this should not occur, thus a maintain amt of pwr is constantly available, especially given that I am only going to use it for overnight travel stops or at shopping centers for a few hours for a/c. if we are going to be anyplace for any period (24 hours or more) I will be plugged into regular pwr at a campground. We dont do boondocking so it is not an issue. Besides when I do purchase one I want it to serve a dual purpose of use at the house during power outages which dont happen very often.

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PS Crane can be found at Harbor Freight tools and elect winch to mount as well instead of crank winch.
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:43 PM   #83
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Generators come in two basic types, mechanical generation (Type 1 if you will or traditional) for the output power and "electronic" generation (Type 2 for our discussion or inverter) for the output power.

Both start the process of producing power the same way however which is to have an engine (normally gasoline powered) turn an armature within a set of coils or magnets to produce an alternating voltage (typically 120 volt at a frequency directly related to the speed (RPM) of the engine).

In a Type 1 generator, when the engine is running at the correct speed (usually 1800 or 3600 rpm) then the output frequency is 60 Hz - the same as the AC in your home so you get 120v @ 60 Hz from the Generator. This is the correct voltage and frequency for "sensitive" loads such as TV's, Microwaves, etc. Ideally it is a Sine wave, if everything remains constant. Yea - like that is going to happen!

When the load on the generator is suddenly increased (you turn something on), the engine slows down which changes the output frequency of the power to something less than 60 Hz. This is NOT good for "sensitive" electronic toys!!! It also disrupts the Sine wave

A Type 2 Inverter Generator solves this problem by doing an intermediate step in the power delivery process. It takes the output from the armature driven engine and then rectifies the Alternating Current and makes it Direct Current (DC). It then takes that to feed the remaining "inverter electronics" which inverts the power back to the required 120V @ 60 Hz which is what shows up at the power outlets. It corrects for all the in-consistency in the Voltage , frequency, and wave shape issues.

This is the reason the Type 2 Inverter generators are more expensive than Type 1 (traditional) generators. There's just a lot more parts and things going on.

Another way to think about this is to think of it this way.

Take a Type 1 (traditional) generator like is used on Construction sites. Take the output of that generator and feed it to a High Current DC power supply. Take the output of the DC Power Supply and feed it to a 2000 watt (for discussion) Inverter. Take the output of the Inverter and feed the RV. Whola ------- Inverter generator.

D
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Old 08-30-2011, 03:05 PM   #84
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Yamaha Extended fuel tank

Is there a good solution for an extended fuel tank for a Yamaha 2400?

Some time back, I read about a tank that had a fuel pump for the Yamaha. Seemed complicated and expensive. Any better solutions out there...
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:29 PM   #85
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Thanks for that explanation.
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:46 PM   #86
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Two generators

I have one Honda 2000 that I use most of the time for recharging batteries in the trailer, watching TV, etc I also carry a Yamaha 2800 which I use sparingly to run the air conditioner if it is especially hot when we boondock. That generator also can run the microwave, which limits the heat output into the trailer on a hot day.
They are stored in the back of the Toyota Tundra and they are protected with a cap. If it rains I can still use them since they are covered. Sometimes I run a fan to let some of the heat get out of the bed of the truck. This set up has worked for us for many years.
Since we have not had power since Sunday, because of the hurricane, the Yamaha has been running all day to provide power to the refrigerator and freezer in the house. The Honda has been running to give us light, TV, phone, computer, run the sump pump etc. Both generators run all day on a tank of gas. wolf146
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:38 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by Steelegood View Post
Hey TBRich:



Thanks for the useful information re: the tote. However I've been looking for the 24 gal. action packer tote w/o success. I found one but the handles are on the front. You stated that the handle of your generator fits inside one of the grooves on the lid. After buying one action packer (latch on the front) I can't get the generator into it except left to right whereas the handle does not fit in any groove b/c it sits in the wrong direction, and leaves little room for anything else. It's impossible to get it to sit facing front to back w/o forcing it to turn? Do you have the same problem, and force the generator to fit front to back, so as the handle will fit in one of the grooves? so you have room for accessories for the generator?

Thanks for your helpful information. I've never used a portable generator and am excited to have one! Your comment about extra cables was also terribly helpful information. Additionally, no one ever mentioned I would need an adapter for the twist lock plug. Again more useful information. Any other comments you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Terry.
The Rubbermaid Action Packer (24 gal) we have has the handles on the ends and the grooves on the underside of the lid run lengthwise and the handle of the genny slips right in if you put it off-center slightly...and store the accessories on one side on the genny....it's just like the one in my post and that shown in Robert Cross' post #79... try Ace Hardware. I know you can get them online. Here's a listing on Amazon.com: Amazon.com: rubbermaid 1172

Hope this helps...
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:47 PM   #88
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Hi, a few more things about electric. This is dated but the principle should be about the same. In Europe they use 50 Hz and here [USA] we use 60 Hz. This is critical on timed devises like record players, reel to reel tape players, and 120 volt wall clocks. I had a Sony reel to reel tape player and it came with two pinch wheels, one for 50 Hz and the other for 60 Hz for the correct tape speed. As for the question on the Yamaha 2400; They can use the same extended fuel tank as the Honda 2000, but with a gas cap made for the Yamaha.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:30 PM   #89
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TBRich:

Thanks for the information. Helps a lot. Have one ordered.

Terry.
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:56 PM   #90
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I have a question about the Honda generators, specifically the 2000 "Companion" model: can it be used by itself? From the pictures I've seen, it doesn't have any 15 amp outlets that would be used if it were running solo; the outlets on it seem to be marked only for operation with a regular 2000.
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:27 PM   #91
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Yes, you can use the Honda 2000i Companion by itself. We have one. It has one regular household outlet and one 30-amp outlet (it's a twist-n-turn, so you need an adapter so you can plug a standard shore line into it). It has no 12 volt outlet, however. You can see both outlets in my post #61...it has an adapter in place in the 30-amp plug-in...the regular household plug-in is next to it.
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:26 PM   #92
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pulled the plug and ordered the combo package EU2000i, companion EU2000i with Parallel cables and RV plug Adapter from wisesales.com few days ago....came home today and had two large boxes on front porch...Wise does a wonderful job shipping these out and packaging them well....

I am sorta confused as the pull start says "NO OIL" on a tag...but both units seem to have been shipped with oil... haven't had a chance to run them yet.....

I recommend Wise......
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:19 PM   #93
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I would be very surprised if they were shipped with oil in them. Take off the side cover and check the oil dip stick to make sure they have oil in them BEFORE cranking them up! You should be able to see the oil in the oil port. The tags come on the pull start to remind people to put oil in them before starting.
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:28 AM   #94
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KyMoonshine, when we got our Hondas, I thought the same thing. However, when you start adding oil, you'll see that there is only a minimal amount in the crankcase. This is probably the remainder from when it was assembled at the factory, probably what they installed so the parts weren't dry when they hand or machine cranked it to make sure that everything turned over OK. Also, this small amount probably prevents corrosion during storage and shipment, while reducing the chance of leakage.

I once toured an auto engine rebuilding factory, and they used a dynomometer to "run the engine in" and make sure all the parts functioned correctly as part of their final inspection. They didn't run fuel to the engine, but instead used a dynomometer to turn the crank shaft so that they could circulate oil through the engine, measure cylinder compression, watch for loose or missing parts, etc. It looked, acted and sounded exactly like the engine was running, except for the lack of fuel.

They let the engine "run" for about 5-10 minutes, then measured the current required to crank the engine at a certain RPM. If a specific current was exceeded, they knew that something was binding or installed correctly, like bearings, etc.; and if it was low (usually accompanied by some strange sounds), probably something was missing, like piston rings. If everything passed, they drained the crankcase and packaged the engine up. So, short of running fuel through the engine, they could be sure that everything was working OK. However, this allowed the engine to be shipped without ever having gasoline in the lines, and with only the residual oil in the crankcase, since they drained the excess and only whatever continued to drip down from the top of the engine remained after the bulk of the oil was drained.

I'm sure they don't want any fuel or a large amount of oil leaking during shipment, due to the mess and potential fire hazard.
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:26 AM   #95
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Our 2000i was delivered full as a courtesy from the vender. Ran it for several hrs and changed to synthetic...

Bob
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:12 PM   #96
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they both seem completely full.....but I think I will drain them and add new oil anyway...what oil do you guys run?

also...how are you securing your little generators when using them? so lite they would be easy to carry off.....
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:56 PM   #97
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they both seem completely full.....but I think I will drain them and add new oil anyway...what oil do you guys run?

also...how are you securing your little generators when using them? so lite they would be easy to carry off.....
If we are going to be away from the campsite, I drop the Honda into it's 24gal Rubbermaid Action Packer and set in the AS. I sealed the lid, no fumes. At the site it runs in a small 4 person tent, out of sight less temptation.

First season I used Mobil 1 10-30, last four Amsoil XLT 10-30.
Oil change every Spring regardless the hrs used.

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Old 09-04-2011, 07:01 AM   #98
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Yes, you can use the Honda 2000i Companion by itself. We have one. It has one regular household outlet and one 30-amp outlet (it's a twist-n-turn, so you need an adapter so you can plug a standard shore line into it). It has no 12 volt outlet, however. You can see both outlets in my post #61...it has an adapter in place in the 30-amp plug-in...the regular household plug-in is next to it.
Thanks. The way it's marked from the pictures I've seen, it looked like you weren't supposed to use either outlet unless it was running in parallel... which seemed incredibly limiting to me. Glad to hear it's smarter than that.

After we sell the B190, we'll pick up a regular 2000i to start, then later add a companion for maximum fun and excitement. (Given we'll probably use ours more for power outages at home than for camping...)
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:04 AM   #99
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I think what you are seeing is the resigual (remaining oil) that was used to test that gennie at the Honda factory. I thought mine had oil too until I started to add and found it took the required amount,opps sorry dont remember the amount. I put in what I have in the shop SAE 30 fer now. I use that In everything Customers and mine.
I am going to try and find two of those containers to haul and store my 2000's in they look perfect.
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:47 PM   #100
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Thanks. The way it's marked from the pictures I've seen, it looked like you weren't supposed to use either outlet unless it was running in parallel... which seemed incredibly limiting to me. Glad to hear it's smarter than that.

After we sell the B190, we'll pick up a regular 2000i to start, then later add a companion for maximum fun and excitement. (Given we'll probably use ours more for power outages at home than for camping...)
We bought the Companion first (they cost ~$100 more)...as well as the parallel cables (~$40) — even though we didn't have a 2nd generator (yet). We often camp with AS friends some of whom also have Hondas. We figured if we ever found ourselves in a situation where we needed AC but didn't have the 2nd generator someone else would have a Honda 2000 and we would be prepared to offer to put them together in parallel so at least one trailer could be cool! (That trailer would then become the "party trailer"!) We now have a pair (Companion + Regular) and love them. We're ready for anything!

By the way you can parallel 2 regular Hondas, but it requires a parallel box/kit that costs more than the extra $100 for the Companion and the $40 for the cables.
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