This seem like good value?

[GettinAway]

And,, Most important a good usable solar suitcase? I’m just looking to keep regular 12volt Interstate batteries charged. We will NOT be running AC, microwave, but we may have to run the propane furnace a bit in the morning. (25’ Globetrotter.)
Also,, Do I need 200w? Is there an advantage (speed to recharge) to going with 200w vs 100w?
I don’t want it stolen. So I can lock it up when we are not around. I’m adding the long cord because we always prefer shaded spots. Hopefully I can get the solar panel into the sun. We will also have a Honda 2000 with us. (Have EasyStart).
Thanks,
Jeff

[Hans627]

Following!

[Labeda14]

It’s a great kit. I have one. If you have the Zamp port on the battery box you will likely need to swap the positive and negative wires on the voyager controller.

Not sure where you are located...but since our current trailer came with roof solar, I’m looking to sell mine. (Happy to edit/delete this if that’s not allowed)

[GettinAway]

Hey Labeda14. I’m in St Louis Missouri area, but heading to WY next week. Would be happy to detour up to SD. I’ll send you a PM.
I had heard about the swapping of the leads.
Thanks

[Octane1]

Howdy - new guy here - if my Airstream does not have solar (but was pre wired) ... how would I connect / use a kit like this one?

Thank you

2021 Intl 27FB on order

[ROBERT CROSS]

Our older Classic does not have the factory Zamp connector, so I charge thru the 7-pin directly to the batteries. With two 160w Zamp Suitcase panels👍
POI...the 7pin connector has had the polarity reversed to match the Zamp wiring.

Bob
🇺🇸

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by Octane1

Howdy - new guy here - if my Airstream does not have solar (but was pre wired) ... how would I connect / use a kit like this one?

Thank you

2021 Intl 27FB on order

Octane1,
I believe your trailer will have a solar connection on the A frame of the tongue. I think all never AS trailers have this connection. But for the system shown above the wiring is backwards and the Wiring on the panels you plug into the trailer need to be reversed. Not all systems need reversed though.

[Octane1]

Thank you. I have a lot to learn. This forum, the members and the mountain of data is great for us new folks.

[CampingDavid]

I've never met anyone who wished they bought fewer panels.

The 100 or 200 question is difficult because I don't know how much you can generate in your area. This depends on how far north you are on, the season, how much south/west facing sun you can capture...

If you can't make 100, having 200 won't be helpful.

If you can make over 100, you would wish you had 200 because it's going to waste.

Speed of charge with 100 or 200 is, IMO, the wrong metric. It's "how much" because you can't control the sun. More panels. More power generation. More powering coming in? More power, faster but not "faster power."

[GettinAway]

Got it. Thanks! Amazon had a used one for $300. Still in original packing. (200 watts)
So we are taking it with us to WY after I change the positive and negative wires..

[solomon.m]

Can someone draw or explain the "reversing the wires" described above? I have a 2020 FC and bought a 45W Zamp panel to be a battery tender in my storage facility. I simply plugged it into the Zamp port on the hitch and now see a positive value (current going into) my batteries on the BMV 712. Appreciate insights from the collective wisdom here. Best, Michael

[djbar]

Following re: reversing the wires.

Is this only necessary if using the umbilical cord for charging via portables or is it also necessary if going from the portables to the Zamp port on the hitch?

(Sorry for the simple question but totally ignorant about solar.)

[GettinAway]

I hope one of the solar experts jumps in here. I’m not sure of the answers.

[Labeda14]

Zamp wires their plugs backwards (positive connected to the negative lead) so when you plug in to the Renogy solar controller it showed an error. When I called them and gave them the error code, he explained that the positive and negative leads were reversed. So the easiest thing to do at that point was swap the wires that go into the controller (just two screws). So if you are using zamp panels you won’t have to do anything. But if you want to use the zamp plug in the battery box with a different panel/controller manufacturer, you likely will have to swap the leads

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by Labeda14

When I called them and gave them the error code, he explained that the positive and negative leads were reversed. So the easiest thing to do at that point was swap the wires that go into the controller (just two screws).

Labeda,
I was thinking I would switch the wiring on the panels, but you just swapped the wires in the connector on the frame of the trailer? Sounds like the better (cleaner) way to go. Just pull that plug receptacle swap the wires going into it, and re-install, correct?
Thx

[Labeda14]

I switched the wires on the controller that is attached to the panels. I did not change anything on the trailer

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by Labeda14

I switched the wires on the controller that is attached to the panels. I did not change anything on the trailer

Got it. Glad I asked.
Thx

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by solomon.m

Can someone draw or explain the "reversing the wires" described above? I have a 2020 FC and bought a 45W Zamp panel to be a battery tender in my storage facility. I simply plugged it into the Zamp port on the hitch and now see a positive value (current going into) my batteries on the BMV 712. Appreciate insights from the collective wisdom here. Best, Michael

Originally Posted by djbar

Following re: reversing the wires.

Is this only necessary if using the umbilical cord for charging via portables or is it also necessary if going from the portables to the Zamp port on the hitch?

(Sorry for the simple question but totally ignorant about solar.)

You can use one of these in the charge line.

I charge thru the 7-pin umbilical so I just reversed the wiring there.

Bob
🇺🇸