Solar Show and Tell

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

My Trimeteric and Seelevel monitor both pull about .04A when on standby. The solar controller pulls more, I can’t recall how much, but I shut it off in storage. The lithium slowly drops about 1% a day with those two devices left on.

I would say that .04 amps is about the same as 0.54 watts, so my power consumption appears reasonable. BTW, solar panels are connected, converter off.

Thanks, Dan

[Lumatic]

I have a new one panel solar system I took off another Airstream. I think the panel puts out 140 watts. I am thinking about making the system portable which would enable me to position the panel. I would build a box to put all the components in and plug it into either of my 2 Airstreams.



What do you think? suggestions?


One question that comes to mind is what to use for a quick connect to connect the panel to the components and the components to the electrical system on my trailers?

[batman]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

I have a new one panel solar system I took off another Airstream. I think the panel puts out 140 watts. I am thinking about making the system portable which would enable me to position the panel. I would build a box to put all the components in and plug it into either of my 2 Airstreams.



What do you think? suggestions?


One question that comes to mind is what to use for a quick connect to connect the panel to the components and the components to the electrical system on my trailers?

Exactly what I did. I have 2-100 WATT panels. I use "Anderson SB-50" connectors at the trailer and on the extended cables to the panels. The panels have a MC4 connector with a pig tail I put the Anderson connector on the end of that pig tail to complete the system.

I can configure the panels for Parallel or series. See ruff diagram. I made my combiner box from a plastic electrical box with cover and buss bars from my local box store.

Park in the shade and place you panels in the sun.

-Dennis

[Vapilotda]

I just wrapped up phase 1 of my solar upgrade. I thank all of you for all of the information and help putting this together. I ended up doing an all parallel install although I really wanted to do the series/parallel install that Airmiles did. Once I saw a video on how easy it was to remove the fridge, I went ahead with that route. It certainly was a little bit more work and money but I now have 0 concerns about shading.
The next phase is the multiplus install and lithium batteries but I decided to not spend that extra money right now with all of the obvious economical concerns going on.
I started the battery relocation process as I had a good AGM laying around that I just tied into the DC bus bar as a temporary thing until I decide to spend the money on the rest of the parts. I pulled the romex from the main panel to the front storage while I was in there so the there won't be too much more to do when I pull the trigger on the remaining big ticket items. The toughest part so far was deciding on how to run both the 4/2 solar panel wires and the romex through the trailer to the front storage compartment. I had hoped for a chase under the floor and didn't have luck there. The one spot under the shower was on the outside of the frame and I couldn't access the inside portion without pulling the entire belly. I opted to run the wire through non metal liquid tight gray conduit along the floor from cabinet to cabinet. I used a hole saw to put the conduit through the cabinet and 3M VHB tape to attach it to the rubber trim piece and it honestly doesn't look too bad. It was way easier than pulling the belly pan.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Vapilotda

I just wrapped up phase 1 of my solar upgrade. I thank all of you for all of the information and help putting this together. I ended up doing an all parallel install although I really wanted to do the series/parallel install that Airmiles did. Once I saw a video on how easy it was to remove the fridge, I went ahead with that route. It certainly was a little bit more work and money but I now have 0 concerns about shading.
The next phase is the multiplus install and lithium batteries but I decided to not spend that extra money right now with all of the obvious economical concerns going on.
I started the battery relocation process as I had a good AGM laying around that I just tied into the DC bus bar as a temporary thing until I decide to spend the money on the rest of the parts. I pulled the romex from the main panel to the front storage while I was in there so the there won't be too much more to do when I pull the trigger on the remaining big ticket items. The toughest part so far was deciding on how to run both the 4/2 solar panel wires and the romex through the trailer to the front storage compartment. I had hoped for a chase under the floor and didn't have luck there. The one spot under the shower was on the outside of the frame and I couldn't access the inside portion without pulling the entire belly. I opted to run the wire through non metal liquid tight gray conduit along the floor from cabinet to cabinet. I used a hole saw to put the conduit through the cabinet and 3M VHB tape to attach it to the rubber trim piece and it honestly doesn't look too bad. It was way easier than pulling the belly pan.

Looks great! Proud to see that 600A switch and ANL fuse block. Nice.

[GMFL]

Just finished up another install today.
5 90watt Zamp panels.
6 BattleBorn batteries
3000 watt MultiPlus
Victron MPPT
Victron 712
Progressive Industry 50A surge protector
Blue Sea stuff
Main difference with this install was I used a Smart a Phase Selector from AM Solar to power the entire 50A service from the inverter.

[Vapilotda]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Looks great! Proud to see that 600A switch and ANL fuse block. Nice.

Thanks! I’ve been taking notes from your installs. Do you typically pull the belly pan and go under the trailer for wires?

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Vapilotda

Thanks! I’ve been taking notes from your installs. Do you typically pull the belly pan and go under the trailer for wires?

Not normally, but I have had to drop the pan before. It’s not much fun. Island beds usually require it. I did a 30’SO Classic and had to drop the pan to get around the slide.

[gregwall]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Just finished up another install today.
5 90watt Zamp panels.
6 BattleBorn batteries
3000 watt MultiPlus
Victron MPPT
Victron 712
Progressive Industry 50A surge protector
Blue Sea stuff
Main difference with this install was I used a Smart a Phase Selector from AM Solar to power the entire 50A service from the inverter.

Very cool. Thank you for sharing

[HiHoAgRV]

I pulled the 34’ from under the shed for a spring cleaning and to re-configure my 400w series/parallel panels. I had installed with the pair of panels on the sides as series. I didn’t like how a single shadow across either the froward 2 or the rear 2 panels killed the output of both strings. Now the forward 2 are one series and the rear 2 are the other series. Each series is wired down the fridge stack with 2 sets of 8 gauge wires to terminal blocks, then forward to the Bluesky charge controller with #6.
Since I cleaned the panels I figured it’s a good chance to put a load on the setup for a spring test.
The 2x GC batteries were charged so I turned on all of the interior lights. 28 amp load!!! I think there are close to 50 bulbs in this monster. I let them run for a while and then checked the Trimetric, 77%. Ouch.
As soon as the sun peeped thru my little solar hole in the trees the system jumped to full power, hovering between 19.5 and 20 amps, the configuration limit due the controller.
The good part was when the clouds rolled in I was still getting 5-6 amps. When restarted the Progressive Dynamics charger it was only hitting 5 amps so I guess the solar was givin’ her all she could accept.

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

I pulled the 34’ from under the shed for a spring cleaning and to re-configure my 400w series/parallel panels. I had installed with the pair of panels on the sides as series. I didn’t like how a single shadow across either the froward 2 or the rear 2 panels killed the output of both strings. Now the forward 2 are one series and the rear 2 are the other series. Each series is wired down the fridge stack with 2 sets of 8 gauge wires to terminal blocks, then forward to the Bluesky charge controller with #6.

This has not been my experience that when one panel of each series gets shaded that all power is "killed". Here is my test of this: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ml#post2242341 Even with three of four series-parallel panels covered with towels, I still get full available power from the fourth panel.

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

This has not been my experience that when one panel of each series gets shaded that all power is "killed". Here is my test of this: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ml#post2242341 Even with three of four series-parallel panels covered with towels, I still get full available power from the fourth panel.

I have seen your multi repost of that link. Other internet sources, actually all of them I have seen, opinion or demonstrate with the physics of a PV cell that shading of a series cell (in the absence of a reverse bias diode) not only kill the series but also cause heating of the shaded cell.
Everyone will agree (oh dear, making a supposition) that an unshaded series is our best buddy. In my camping experience, shadows have more often than not, covered either both front or both rear panels, leaving neither series strings ‘our best buddies’. Thus my re wire and happiness today.
I did catch myself Amazoning a controller that went above my current 20A limit... but I only hit that under very limited High Solar, Low Charge on my GC batteries.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

This has not been my experience that when one panel of each series gets shaded that all power is "killed". Here is my test of this: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ml#post2242341 Even with three of four series-parallel panels covered with towels, I still get full available power from the fourth panel.

The reason this works is that you have an MPPT controller that will maximize the battery charge current with whatever current is available from the array.

The thing to remember is that current not panel voltage is the parameter the controller works with. It will step up or down the voltage it gets from any combination of panels within its input specifications to maximize power output to the battery.

Right now, I have only one flat 150 watt panel on my roof, but I get some charge current even with it aimed North and in some shade all day. The controller design is the key to all this. It’s basically a small, efficient switching power supply that tracks current.

[Fair_Enough]

Renogy has lots of stuff on sale. For example they have a 4-100w Eclipse kit with lots of stuff for less than the sale price for 4-100W Eclipse alone. Regular 1,114.xx for $658.74. I am seriously considering getting it and add 2 of the 100w to the 23FB and make a portable out of the other 2.
WW

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Correct!

Well, this answered my question on putting lithium batteries in the front storage compartment.
I was wondering if that was a option, vs under the bed.
Thx

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by GettinAway

Well, this answered my question on putting lithium batteries in the front storage compartment.
I was wondering if that was a option, vs under the bed.
Thx

This install was on a 2019 30’ Classic with twin beds. There was no front storage compartment and the couch in the front had reclining ends which eliminated the space to put every thing under the couch.
Under kitchen sink..... nope.
Under dinette booth..... nope.
Only logical option for space and wire runs in “this” trailer was under curb side twin bed.

[HiHoAgRV]

Its pretty cloudy today but I was able to see how shading affected my rewired 400W series-parallel system.

Based on this quick test, I'm happy that this configuration will minimize the impact of a single shadow crossing my roof and shading both a left and right side panel. Now when a tree/pole/limb shades 2x panels, I have a much better chance of one series string still making power. My forward 2 panels are now a series and the back 2 are a separate series. I used a 8" wide piece of ply to lay over the panels to simulate a pole's shadow. I loaded the system by kicking on lights until the solar output was negated.

All panels unshaded 194 Watts from the panels
Front (Series A) shaded 102 Watts from the panels 48% loss
Both Back (Series B) shaded 98 Watts from the panels 49% loss
One Panel from series A shaded 108 Watts from the panels 44% loss
Curb Side shaded (one panel from each series) 6 Watts from the panels 97% loss

[Bigventure]

Originally Posted by GMFL

This install was on a 2019 30’ Classic with twin beds. There was no front storage compartment and the couch in the front had reclining ends which eliminated the space to put every thing under the couch.
Under kitchen sink..... nope.
Under dinette booth..... nope.
Only logical option for space and wire runs in “this” trailer was under curb side twin bed.

You can use the battery box and you could lose the draw. And keep just the front.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Bigventure

You can use the battery box and you could lose the draw. And keep just the front.

What drawer?

And I had 6 batteries and a MultiPlus inverter....

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Its pretty cloudy today but I was able to see how shading affected my rewired 400W series-parallel system.

Based on this quick test, I'm happy that this configuration will minimize the impact of a single shadow crossing my roof and shading both a left and right side panel. Now when a tree/pole/limb shades 2x panels, I have a much better chance of one series string still making power. My forward 2 panels are now a series and the back 2 are a separate series. I used a 8" wide piece of ply to lay over the panels to simulate a pole's shadow. I loaded the system by kicking on lights until the solar output was negated.

All panels unshaded 194 Watts from the panels
Front (Series A) shaded 102 Watts from the panels 48% loss
Both Back (Series B) shaded 98 Watts from the panels 49% loss
One Panel from series A shaded 108 Watts from the panels 44% loss
Curb Side shaded (one panel from each series) 6 Watts from the panels 97% loss

Thanks for sharing your test results. Can you tell us what model of solar controller you are using? I don't understand why you lose 97% with one panel from each series covered when mine does not. I used a Victron 100/30 SmartSolar MPPT controller for my tests.