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02-10-2020, 06:11 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
2020 28' International
Hillsborough
, North Carolina
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 11
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Solar Ready - what does it mean
OK folks, I am totally uneducated on solar panels, controllers, etc and this may be a stupid question, but here goes.
Our 2020 Serenity is "solar ready" according to AS. Does that mean I can simply plug in solar panels and recharge my batteries? I see lots of posts about different brands of controllers and monitors, etc, but is that necessary for a solar ready trailer?
I think I understand you need to know that the panels are working as desired and I think I understand you might need different batteries, but what if the AS is solar ready, what is really necessary vs. nice to have?
Like I say, I am uneducated so please be kind and don't beat me up!
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02-10-2020, 06:22 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2019 25' International
Providence
, Senior Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swlovett
OK folks, I am totally uneducated on solar panels, controllers, etc and this may be a stupid question, but here goes.
Our 2020 Serenity is "solar ready" according to AS. Does that mean I can simply plug in solar panels and recharge my batteries? I see lots of posts about different brands of controllers and monitors, etc, but is that necessary for a solar ready trailer?
I think I understand you need to know that the panels are working as desired and I think I understand you might need different batteries, but what if the AS is solar ready, what is really necessary vs. nice to have?
Like I say, I am uneducated so please be kind and don't beat me up!
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It means that the wiring that is needed to install a solar panel hub, Ethernet wire for the solar charge panel, and DC charging wires that run from the roof to the battery box and distribution are all "in place".
It is just a matter of "adding" the requisite panels and hardware to make the system work.
We opted for the factory solar and even though it isn't Victron or "the best" way to go, it does a good job for what we need to keep the batteries topped off.
We don't do a lot of boondocking off of shore power, so your solar needs vs others may vary. You really need to try and figure out.........do I need only 180 Watts of solar, or 800+ because of XYZ requirements.
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02-10-2020, 06:26 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2018 27' Globetrotter
Apollo Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,401
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I did what I consider a "minimalistic" solar install on the factory prewire on my 25' Airstream. It includes four 100W Renogy "Compact" solar panels, a Victron 100/30 SmartSolar controller, a cutoff switch, a 40A breaker, a Victron Smart Battery Sense module, 30' of 10 gauge duplex wire, and some wire connectors. All of this is described in the "Solar Show and Tell" thread: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ll-181608.html
Don't worry about being a beginner with solar. We were all there at one time. In February of 2018 I was a beginner just like you. Now I share how I did my basic installation with others. My basic 400W installation with 6V golf cart batteries can be self installed for about $1,200. Elaborate installations with Lithium batteries can cost $10,000 or more. Don't be afraid to ask questions. We are here to help.
Here is my parts list with links to where the parts can be bought for my 600W installation: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ml#post2288463 I recommend putting as many panels on the roof as will fit. Since you have a 28' Airstream, I'm certain you could put six 100W panels on the roof and still use the factory prewire with a series-parallel configuration (like I have on my 27').
__________________
2021 Northern-Lite 10-2 & F350 DRW PSD, 600W Solar/Victron/600A BattleBorn
146 nights 31,000 miles (first 10 months!)
Sold: 2018 GT27Q, 74 nights 12,777 miles
Sold: 2017 FC25FB, 316 nights 40,150 miles
Sold: 2013 Casita SD17 89 nights 16,200 miles
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02-10-2020, 07:01 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2018 27' Globetrotter
Apollo Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,401
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I'm also going to offer a second solution. You can buy a "Solar Suitcase" which includes the solar controller, panels, and all the wiring. This solar suitcase can just be plugged into the connection on the side of your battery box (make sure the positive and negative are correct). Here are some examples: https://www.renogy.com/products/sola...lar-suitcases/
__________________
2021 Northern-Lite 10-2 & F350 DRW PSD, 600W Solar/Victron/600A BattleBorn
146 nights 31,000 miles (first 10 months!)
Sold: 2018 GT27Q, 74 nights 12,777 miles
Sold: 2017 FC25FB, 316 nights 40,150 miles
Sold: 2013 Casita SD17 89 nights 16,200 miles
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02-10-2020, 07:23 AM
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#5
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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We also KISS...
I was/am reluctant to clutter up the roof. I go up every Spring to inspect for bad stuff happening.
Bad stuff WILL happen.🥴
Works for us just fine...👍
Two Zamp 180w portable panels charging thru the 7pin, 2 BB Lithium batteries, a 60w Boondocker lithium charger, Victron monitor. 🤓
Bob
🇺🇸
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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02-10-2020, 09:12 AM
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#6
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,684
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Hi
The "solar ready" pre-wire also includes a "Zamp connector" at the battery box to connect to outboard devices. It's a two way thing (it's just a wire). You can also use it to hook up 12V devices outside the trailer.
If you decide to put panels on the roof, spend some time working out what the max number of panels is. You don't *have* to put them all on at one time. The idea is not to put up the first panel(s) in a place that is not compatible with the layout for a "full set".
Bob
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02-10-2020, 10:34 AM
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#7
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Stay CazuaL
2018 25' Flying Cloud
2014 19' Flying Cloud
Reseda
, California
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kittmaster
It means that the wiring that is needed to install a solar panel hub, Ethernet wire for the solar charge panel, and DC charging wires that run from the roof to the battery box and distribution are all "in place".
It is just a matter of "adding" the requisite panels and hardware to make the system work.
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I concur
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03-02-2020, 07:56 PM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
2017 30' International
Lincolnwood
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 312
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solar ready prewire
I have a 2017 "Solar Ready " International 30 signature RB Queen.
I would like to install 400 watts on the roof, 2 battleborn batteries and all the necessary hardware that goes along with it.
But I have no clue where to look for all of these pre-wired locations for my trailer. Where can I find this info,
Any help greatly appreciated !!
Thanks
Dazed and Confused
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03-02-2020, 10:39 PM
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#9
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Site Team
2017 30' International
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milo1952
I have a 2017 "Solar Ready " International 30 signature RB Queen.
I would like to install 400 watts on the roof, 2 battleborn batteries and all the necessary hardware that goes along with it.
But I have no clue where to look for all of these pre-wired locations for my trailer. Where can I find this info,
Any help greatly appreciated !!
Thanks
Dazed and Confused
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I have the same trailer and year. On your floor plan the solar wires from the roof combiner box terminate under the L-couch at the front of the trailer. You’ll need to remove the couch to get at the wires and install your charge controller and batteries.
See here, this gentlemen also has the same trailer and posted some pictures:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f54...rb-205715.html
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06-17-2020, 10:21 AM
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#10
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1 Rivet Member
2003 39' Land Yacht XL 330 hp w/2slides
Hartwell
, Georgia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 16
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I have a solar suitcase, but am not sure how to hook it into the airstream.
__________________
N Moureau
Hartwell, Georgia
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06-23-2020, 11:38 AM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
2018 27' Tommy Bahama
Palm Springs
, California
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 13
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As a newbie we have a 2020 22’ Caravel. Pre wired for solar. We mostly for now anyway will only stay at full hookup sites. Our main concern is the battery dying while it’s sitting in the storage lot. So the battery is dead when we need to un couple it. We have to manually crank the AS up so we can hook it up. At 62 this isn’t fun. So I looked at the link below there are 10 kinds of solar kits, I’ve decided that much we will get a kit. But I don’t know what I need. I’d like to spend middle of the road not the cheapest not the most expensive. Your suggestions appreciated
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06-24-2020, 06:17 AM
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#12
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angeltu
As a newbie we have a 2020 22’ Caravel. Pre wired for solar. We mostly for now anyway will only stay at full hookup sites. Our main concern is the battery dying while it’s sitting in the storage lot. So the battery is dead when we need to un couple it. We have to manually crank the AS up so we can hook it up. At 62 this isn’t fun. So I looked at the link below there are 10 kinds of solar kits, I’ve decided that much we will get a kit. But I don’t know what I need. I’d like to spend middle of the road not the cheapest not the most expensive. Your suggestions appreciated
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Hi
First up: Running a battery completely dead is really bad for the battery. Doing that a few times (and leaving it in the dead state for a while) is just about guaranteed to damage it. Best to consider replacing the battery(s).
If you have full sun in the storage lot, there are a number of solutions. There are also solutions if sun is iffy.
Cheapest is a full disconnect switch on the battery. This works regardless of sun. It goes in the negative lead running to the battery. There are lots of threads here on installing them. It's an easy thing for a dealer to do it you aren't into mods.
If you are comfortable with the security, a small portable panel may do the job. I've never seen a lot that I would consider that safe (maybe I'm just paranoid).
Next up, mount a single panel on the roof and use the pre-wire to get it hooked up. This likely involves a trip to a dealer or an installer. Any panel up there 40,80,100,120W will keep the battery(s) happy in storage.
Finally, if you *do* go solar, there is the full up fill the roof approach. Then you have enough to get a bit further from full hookups. We find it *very* useful when visiting a (free) Harvest Host on the way to or from somewhere ...
Lots of choices. Not in any particular order.
=======
One side note: Some storage lots have great big wheel around battery chargers .... You might check if yours does .... I .. umm .... errr ... found that mine does .....
Bob
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06-24-2020, 06:47 AM
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#13
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Welcome Aboard 👍
As noted above...the first step should be a battery disconnect switch, a fully charged, undamaged battery will hold a charge for months.
Good luck...
Bob
🇺🇸
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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06-24-2020, 09:52 PM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
2020 20' Bambi
Clayton
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
As noted above...the first step should be a battery disconnect switch, a fully charged, undamaged battery will hold a charge for months.
Good luck...
Bob
����
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Mr. Bob, you referenced a poster who stated he/she has a 2020 Caravel. I have a new 2020 Bambi 20’ with factory 90watt solar on roof. Intallation of a battery disconnect switch came up in several other threads and started to get me a bit worried because different folks talked about parastic drain on battery from propane detector and from CO detector, to name two. Of course the person referencing the CO detector was in error because it runs off of small batteries and is not wired to trailer batteries. But when I started looking at my Atwood propane detector I noticed that the green light goes off when the main interior trailer battery disconnect switch is turned off. I initiated email with AS CS and after several cycles and explaining and politely challenging CS the fellow went to their engineers and he found out that for 2020 model they are wiring the Atwood propane detector to the interior battery disconnect switch, not directly to the A frame batteries. That is why the green light goes off and as such it is no longer a parasitic drain on the batteries. Given that, and my question for you, does this then imply there is no other equipment in the trailer that is drawing on the batteries when the interior switch is off and with the solar panel, as long as there is sun, they should stay charged? And even no sun, they should stay charged for months? Thx, Stephen
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03-22-2021, 08:02 AM
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#15
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1 Rivet Member
2019 25' Flying Cloud
Roodhouse
, Illinois
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 8
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Add suitcase solar to existing system
Can I add a suitcase solar panel with controller to my existing solar system? Plugging it into the solar prep plug in?
And will it help charge my batteries?
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03-22-2021, 09:04 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2019 27' International
Western NC
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carla Wise
Can I add a suitcase solar panel with controller to my existing solar system? Plugging it into the solar prep plug in?
And will it help charge my batteries?
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Yes
__________________
2023 Van Leigh Vilano 320GK
2019 International Serenity 27 FBQ “TC Escape” SOLD
2019 Ford F-350 Platinum
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03-23-2021, 07:25 AM
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#17
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carla Wise
Can I add a suitcase solar panel with controller to my existing solar system? Plugging it into the solar prep plug in?
And will it help charge my batteries?
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Not much
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03-23-2021, 09:28 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2019 25' International
Providence
, Senior Electrical Engineer
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob
Not much
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Since the person is relatively new, maybe you should explain your position when everyone else says yes....
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03-24-2021, 07:21 AM
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#19
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kittmaster
Since the person is relatively new, maybe you should explain your position when everyone else says yes....
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Hi
Well it seemed we were into "keep it short" land. So far the voting is running 50/50 .... pretty big "everyone else" group.
Lead acid batteries in most trailers run between 50% charge and >= 100% rated charge. (If it's hot, you can get 120% ....). They charge quickly to about the 70 or 80% amp hour level. At that point they have a voltage similar to a fully charged battery, but they are nowhere near "full". In terms of the capacity you normally use, that would be right around half ( you are in the middle of the 50% to 100% range) maybe a bit more maybe a bit less.
The only way to get better data is with a shunt based battery monitor. Unfortunately, very few chargers will "team up" with one of these devices. The controller on the typical suitcase ... not so much.
When the battery gets to this point. The charger cuts back. It drops out of constant current mode and goes into a voltage based mode. It watches for a current drop and then pretty much shuts down.
While *both* chargers are in constant current mode, all is fine. The currents combine and away you go. Once you are in voltage mode, a bit of cloud or shade on one or the other controller is likely to create a dropout. Current dips and the controller shuts down. There actually are a couple of ways the interaction can happen ....
So without a networked set of charge controllers that all know what's going on, you only get to *maybe* half way on your batteries. Voltage wise, they look fine. Amp hours wise, you only have half.....maybe .... Simply put, it's not at all easy to see what's going on.
The typical stock battery setup is about 100AH usable capacity. A hundred watts of solar probably puts 5 A in under ideal conditions. If your combo setup gets you to 400W ( 200 on the roof and 200 in the suitcase). You could be pumping 20A. In 2 1/2 hours or so, you are half way into the useable range.
With a good controller, the "tail end" of the charge will take you 6 to 8 hours to complete. It would be unusual to find a location that has peak sun for 10 1/2 hours. If you did, then the suitcase would be helping out for about 1/5 of the time and about 1/4 of the charge input.
That's not a lot of bang for your buck.
Thus "not so much"
Bob
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