Solar pre-wire location

[JeffsTardis]

Do I need to have a fuse and a off on switch also for the solar system?

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by JeffsTardis

Do I need to have a fuse and a off on switch also for the solar system?

Yes and in some cases multiple.

[OTRA15]

OT

Welcome to the forum, Jeff, and "well done" to find this 2016 thread directly on topic.

In scrolling back a few posts for context, Post #77 came into view:

Originally Posted by idroba

NEC defines "continuous loads" as those of 3 hours or more in duration. That usually only means electric heaters, air conditioners, and water heaters. Even water heaters in RV use rarely run for 3 hours at a time. BTW, the de-rating also applies to the circuit breakers used on those same circuits. But to be clear, a 20 amp circuit, can legally cary 20 amps, and will do so just fine. However, if it is supplying a load known to be be "continuous" it must be de-rated to only 80% of capacity. This gets to be a somewhat hard to understand area of the code.

Yes, a smaller wire running to anything like a radio or clock which is not rated for 20 amps could in some strange circumstances become overloaded and fail prior to the typical 20 amp interior circuit breaker opening. But to build things like clocks, TV's and radios with #12 wire to them would make them clunky and very inconvenient, so the UL listings allow for smaller wire to plug in individual devices.

I am not disagreeing with anyone here, only trying to clarify the somewhat difficult to understand National Electrical Code, and some of the UL regulations and real life considerations. As said in the post above, just something to be aware of.

Rest in Peace, idroba, and thank you for years of helpful and kind advice. We are in your debt.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f16...ba-150067.html
[photo in Post #40]

[evamcmahan]

“Alano” stated he has a 2017 30 foot classic and found the yellow and green solar prewire by removing the ceiling light in front of the rear skylight, and reaching up, and it was right there. I have a 2016 30 foot classic and the wires are not there. My owners manual says the wires are to the front of the rear roof vent, and there is no rear roof vent. I phoned Airstream tech support and talked to a man with a great attitude and great patience. He emailed his reference materials to me and it states “ In front of bathroom skylight. Remove bathroom light to access.” It also provided a worthless photo. Well, there is no bathroom, because there is no bathtub, unless you consider the bottom of the shower surround a bathtub. There is no skylight in the shower or in the lavatory. There is the rear skylight in the hallway between the shower and lavatory. Anyway, the wiring is not at the hallway light to the front of the rear skylight, nor behind either of the two lights in the lavatory. Has anybody who has a 2016 30 foot classic found the wires?

[alano]

I would drop the LED light in front of the rear skylight and try again to fish around for the prewiring. Take your time and hunt around as best you can. If you're not successful, then perhaps a trip to the dealer is called for.

Good luck,
Alan

[Bigventure]

The wires are in front of the rear skylight. Remove the hall light. It the center of the trailer. Toward the road side.

[Inspire_AS]

I have run into the same problem time and time again on quite a few of the early 2000 models. Sometimes it is wired wrong from the factory, and sometimes the wires just move after years of being on the road. Either way, it makes it a pain for installing solar when you can’t find the pre wires. Here’s my solution:

The most recent job was a 2005 fb international. You can find where the solar wires start to go up to the roof behind the false wall in the bathroom. You can access it by the access door under the sink by the water heater. I then proceeded to drill a hole a couple of inches below the roof vent. If you get lucky, your hole Will like up with a hole predrilled in a rib with a rubber grommet already in it just waiting for you. I then dropped 10 gauge wire down the hole (10 gauge because it is only a 400 watt install) and then fished the wires out and connected them to the existing wires. This does require cutting the existing wires, soo make sure you have slack to work with. And make sure you connect the wires you dropped down to the right end of the existing wiring. I use heat shrink but connectors just to ensure nothing will happen in the future. Then I install the roof combiner box right there below the vent!

This solution works with Most of the models that I’ve had this issue with. Hope this helps

[Streamme]

Wanting to install solar panels on my 25’ International with two AC units. Does anyone have experience with how many panels, and what size, can be configured efficiently on the roof. Looking to avoid using a generator when boondocking.
Thanks for any advice or help, Bernie